Da barin tsohuwar garin Tonalá, a cikin Jalisco, mun ɗauki babbar hanya mai lamba 80 da wuri sosai, zuwa Zapotlanejo, ƙofar zuwa Los Altos de Jalisco.
A PUERTA DE LOS ALTOS
Da barin tsohuwar garin Tonalá, a cikin Jalisco, mun ɗauki babbar hanya mai lamba 80 da wuri sosai, zuwa Zapotlanejo, ƙofar zuwa Los Altos de Jalisco. Tun kafin shigowa, fifikon masana'antar masaku a cikin gari ya bayyana.
A cikin cibiyoyinta sama da dubu biyu da keɓaɓɓiyar siye da siyarwa, 50% na tufafi ana ƙera su ne a nan, jimillar guda dubu 170 a mako, sauran kuma sun fito ne daga kewayen da za a sayar. Tare da nau'ikan sutturar suttura iri iri masu kyawu mai kyau kuma tare da irin waɗannan kyawawan farashi, har ma mun so siyan wasu samfuran da zamu siyar, amma abin takaici bamu shirya ba, saboda haka zai zama na gaba. Stoparshenmu na gaba ya kasance a Tepatitlán, ba tare da wata shakka ba, ɗayan ɗayan wurare masu jituwa a cikin Los Altos. Babu makawa a tsaya a yaba wa Ikklesiyar San Francisco de Asís, wanda ke ɗaukar hankalinmu tare da dogayen hasumiyoyin neoclassical. A cikin kwanciyar hankali na dandalinsa, ya cancanci tsayawa da yin tunani game da shimfidar hanyoyinta masu tsabta da tsari, waɗanda tsofaffin gidaje suka ƙawata daga ƙarni na 19 da 20.
'Yan mintoci kaɗan daga cibiyar salama ita ce madatsar ruwa ta Jihuite. Daga cikin kyawawan inuwar katuwar bishiyar eucalyptus da pine pines muka tsaya don hutawa yayin da hoton babban madubin ruwa a gabanmu ya cika mu da kwanciyar hankali. Munyi mamakin launin ja mai launi na ƙasar a wannan yanki, musamman, kuma ya bayyana a wannan wurin inda zaku iya kamun kifi ko hawa jirgin ruwa da ɗaukar hoto.
TA HANYAR HANYOYIN BULlu NA AGAVE
A kan hanyar zuwa Arandas, da kaɗan kaɗan waɗancan manyan wuraren shuɗi waɗanda suka zama abin wuyar fahimta a cikin duwatsu daga nesa suna yin haske, kuma ana bayyana su kusa da manyan filayen agave, iri ɗaya na wannan yankin tequila mai wadata.
Kafin isowa, manyan hasumiya masu kyan gani na cocin San José Obrero sun zo don yi mana maraba, waɗanda suka yi tsayayya da shuɗin sama. Anan Silverio Sotelo yana jiranmu, wanda ya nuna mana alfahari game da mahimmancin Arandas a matsayin mai samar da tequila, tare da masu ba da izini 16 waɗanda ke haɗin gwiwa tare da kusan iri 60.
Don duban yadda ake kera wannan mahimmin giyar, sai ya dauke mu muka ga kamfanin El Charro, inda muka ga yadda ake kera kayayyakin, mataki-mataki.
A kan hanyar arewa mun tsaya a San Julián, inda muka haɗu da Guillermo Pérez, mai tallata himma game da mahimmancin wurin a matsayin wurin haifuwar ƙungiyar Cristero, tunda, ya gaya mana, a nan wata runduna da aka ba da umarni. Janar Miguel Hernández, a ranar 1 ga Janairu, 1927.
Akwai abubuwa da yawa da za a koya a nan daga wannan muhimmiyar hanyar a tarihin Meziko, da kuma samar da fannonin da aka kwashe fiye da shekaru 30, wani sanannen San Julián. A masana'antar Chrisglass, har yanzu ana fasalta bangarorin ta hanyar amfani da dabarun busawa, sannan a zana azurfa sannan daga karshe a zana shi da kuma yi masa ado, duk da hannu.
Lokacin da muka yi bankwana, mai masaukinmu ya gayyace mu gwada wani irin cuku mai kama da Oaxaca da cajeta da ake yi anan, wanda hakan ya sa muka dawo ba da daɗewa ba don ƙarin waɗannan kyawawan kayan.
A AREWA TA ALTE OFO
A kan hanyar zuwa San Miguel El Alto, la'asar tana faduwa, yana bata yanayin wuri mai lemu mai dumi, wanda ke dauke da garkunan shanu da bijimai da ke tunatar da mu mahimmancin dabbobi a duk yankin Los Altos, da kuma samar da madara da kiwo. Abubuwan da suka samo asali.
Dare ya yi lokacin da muka isa garin nan sai muka sauka a Hotel Real Campestre, kyakkyawan wuri inda muka huta sosai. Washegari mun isa tsakiyar San Miguel, inda Miguel Márquez ke jiranmu don nuna mana "Ginin gine-ginen Los Altos"; duk fasa.
Tun da farko, abin mamakin ne a ga shi inda yake da duwatsu masu launin ruwan hoda, kuma yayin da muke tafiya a cikin titunanta kuma Miguel ya nace cewa ba mu da ɗan lokaci kaɗan don sanin abubuwan jan hankali na garin, mun gano Bullring, cike da duwatsu har zuwa ciki.
Kafin barinmu mun ziyarci ɗayan karatuna na dutse, wanda yake daidai kan babban benci da aka yi da wannan dutsen mai daraja sosai, inda Heliodoro Jiménez ya ba mu samfurin ƙwarewar sa ta sassaka.
ZURFIN ADDINI
A kan hanyar zuwa San Juan de Los Lagos, kafin Jalostotitlán. mun sami kanmu a Santa Ana de Guadalupe tare da Ikklesiyar da aka sadaukar da ita ga Santo Toribio, wani firist shahidi wanda aka ba da izinin kwanan nan kuma wanda ke riƙe da muƙamin mai kula da baƙin haure.
Aunarsu ta samo asali ne daga labaran da suka shafi bayyanarsu ga wasu mutanen da suka sami matsala a yunƙurinsu na ƙetare iyakar. kuma wanda wannan waliyyin ya taimaka. kamar yadda kowane mutum yake.
Bayan mun tsaya a wurin da aka dafa ganyen agave, wanda warinsa yake tuna mana abubuwanda ake kawowa na tequila, kuma muke jin daɗin dandano mai ɗanɗano, sai mu ci gaba da zuwa San Juan de Los Lagos, wani muhimmin cibiyar addini, a zahiri shine na biyu mafi mahimmanci. daga Mexico, bayan La Villa.
Daga ƙofar, kiran yawon buɗe ido na wurin da mazaunanta, matasa da yara suna fitowa daga kowane yanki, cikin halayyar jagora, kuma sun nace cewa mu dauke mu ta kan tituna zuwa filin ajiye motoci domin mu ci gaba da ƙafa zuwa Cathedral Basilica, abin da muke biya tare da abin da muka saba.
Wannan kyakkyawan wuri mai tsarki daga ƙarshen karni na goma sha bakwai, wanda a cikin hasumiyai na baroque waɗanda ke da niyyar isa sama ya bayyana, sama da masu aminci miliyan biyar suka ziyarta a duk shekara, waɗanda suka zo daga ko'ina cikin ƙasar har ma daga ƙasashen waje, zuwa girmama surar ban mamaki na Budurwar San Juan.
A kusa da gidan ibadar mun sami rumfunan alawa na madara iri-iri, kuma bayan mun ziyarci kayan girke-girke na kayan addini da kayan kwalliya, mun yarda da nacewar mutanen da suke bayan kasuwar suka gayyace mu mu shiga don biyan bukatunmu tare da abinci mai kyau. na Birria, da kuma burodi da sabon kirim da sukari don gamawa.
TSAKANIN SULHUN JANA'IZA DA MANYAN KATSINA
Mun ci gaba da hanyarmu zuwa Encarnación de Díaz, wani kusurwar arewacin Jalisco inda mai tsara gine-ginen Rodolfo Hernández ke jiran mu, wanda ya jagorantar da mu ta tsohuwar da kyakkyawar makabartar Ubangiji ta Rahamar, a cikin salon columbarium.
Anan aka gano cewa gawawwakin ba su narke ba, amma an yi musu gawa ne saboda ruwan da ke dauke da gishirin ma'adinai a yankin da kuma yanayin busasshiyar yanayi da ke wanzuwa a duk shekara. A sakamakon wannan binciken, an ƙirƙiri Gidan Tarihi na Rayuka, wanda ke nuna abubuwa masu alaƙa da al'adun nishaɗi na yankin, da kuma wasu daga cikin mamatan da aka samo a matsayin tsafi ga kakannin mazaunan ta.
A ƙarshen wannan yawon shakatawa mai ban sha'awa, kuma don ɗan jin daɗin ranmu, idan dai muna jin tsoro, sai ya gayyace mu zuwa Tejeda Bakery, don gwada katunan gargajiyar, babban burodi da aka cika da zabibi da taye, kuma aka rufe shi da sukari, wanda muke ƙauna da gaske.
Mun yi ban kwana don ci gaba da tafiya zuwa makoma ta ƙarshe ta hanyarmu, ɗauke da sha'awar sanin gonakinta, tukwanenta da gilashin gilashin gilashi, da Gidan Tarihi na Cristero inda aka baje takardu masu kayatarwa da abubuwan wannan motsi na addini.
Kafin karfe huɗu na yamma mun isa Teocaltiche, inda aka ji ƙarar da ke cikin babban filin mu. Anan Abel Hernández yana jiran mu, wanda tare da karimcin shi ya sa mu ji kai tsaye a gida. Nan da nan, ya gayyace mu mu haɗu da Don Momo, wani ƙwararren mai fasaha wanda, a shekaru 89, ya keɓe mafi yawan lokacinsa don sakar kyawawan sarape a tsohuwar mashin.
Muna kuma gaishe da ɗansa, Gabriel Carrillo, wani ƙwararren mai sana'ar hannu wanda ke aiki tare da ƙwarewar ƙwarewa a sassakar ƙashi, yana ba da rai ga adadi wanda ya samo daga cheanƙarin dara na milimita zuwa wasu na santimita da yawa a haɗe da itace.
Bayan wannan ra'ayi mai dadi, mun tafi cin wani ɗanɗano mai ɗanɗano da salatin abincin teku a gidan cin abinci na El Paya, kwanan nan aka buɗe, amma tare da kayan yaji da alama sun tsufa kamar Teocaltiche kanta, wanda, bisa ga abin da suka faɗa mana, kwanan wata daga pre-Hispanic sau. Cikakken gamsuwa kuma da daddare munyi tattaki kan tituna yanzu cike da mutane, kuma mun wuce ta Chapel na Ex Hospital de Indios, daga karni na 16, ɗayan mahimman gine-ginen addini kuma wanda ke aiki a halin yanzu a matsayin ɗakin karatu.
Akwai sauran abubuwa da yawa don tafiya da abubuwa da yawa da za a sani, amma bayan mako mai ban sha'awa na tafiya dole ne mu dawo, tare da hotunan hotunan filayen agave shuɗi, mallake kyawawan kayan ƙoshin ciki da rikodin dumi da karimci a cikin kyakkyawan tunaninmu na mutanen El Alto.
Source: Ba a san Mexico ba No. 339 / Mayu 2005
