Karanta wannan tarihin mai ban sha'awa na tafiya zuwa Espinazo del Diablo, a cikin Sierra Madre Hatsari, a Durango.
Duk lokacin da wani ya maimaita maganar "Espinazo del Diablo" a yayin tattaunawa, mun san cewa labarin zai fara ne wanda cikin haɗarin yake a bayyane, kasada da tashin hankali. Ba da daɗewa ba zan gamu da matsala na sadu da shi lokacin da direban motar bas ya tambayi fasinjojin: "Shin kuna so ku sauka ku yi tafiya ko wucewa ta Lafiyar Iblis tare da ni."
Mun kasance a cikin mafi girma da hadari na menene a waccan shekarun har yanzu akwai tazara wacce ta tashi daga tashar jirgin ruwa ta Mazatlán zuwa garin Durango. Na tuna cewa mahaifiyata ta gaya mani, tare da wannan rashin ladabi na arewa wanda koyaushe yake nuna mata: "Kada ku motsa, ku bar sautunanku su sauka." Mun ci gaba, ratar ta taƙaita, a gefen titi fasinjojin suna leƙa tagogi kuma suna manne da layin dogaro da kujerunsu. Arar injin ɗin ta zama ta zama kurma, matan sun haye kansu suna riƙe da Haan Maryamu a bakinsu. Motar ta ba da ƙarshe, jiki ya girgiza, Na yi tunani a wannan lokacin cewa mu za mu je kan gangaroAmma daga karshe mun tashi kuma bayan 'yan kilomitoci mun isa wani karamin fili. Rana ta fara faɗuwa.
Direban ya yi ihu: "Muna cikin gari, za mu huta na 'yan mintoci kaɗan." Mun fito daga motar, dusar kankara, fari da taushi sun mamaye takalmina, yanayin wurin yana ta farauta. Direban ya nufi daya daga cikin gidajen da aka gina da katako, murhu ya nuna alamun rai, da alama ya dan yi zafi, kodayake yanayin zafin bai yi sanyi sosai ba tukuna. Mun kasance a cikin "birni", a cikin wani ƙaramin ƙauye na masu satar katako waɗanda a cikin waɗannan shekarun an cire su gaba ɗaya daga duniya.
Oak da Pine gandun daji sun kewaye mu, yawancin Sierra Madre Na bazata, a inda ratar ta hauhawa, ya kiyaye ciyayinsa lafiya. Kalmar "biodiversity" ba a ƙirƙira ta ba tukuna kuma matsalolin yanke daji, kodayake sun riga sun kasance masu mahimmanci, ba su da mahimmanci kamar yanzu. Hankali kamar yana tashi ne kawai lokacin da ya makara.
Ban taɓa sani ba idan gidan abinci ne ko kuma wurin cin abinci, gaskiyar ita ce, mashaya da ɗakin dafa abinci sun yi aiki a lokaci ɗaya, suna yi wa mazaunan yankin hidima da waɗanda, kamar mu, suka yunƙura a wannan hanyar da ba ta da sauƙi. Abincin ya kunshi gasasshen naman sa, jerky, wake, da shinkafa. A ɗaya kusurwar, majiɓanta uku tare da guitar suna rera waƙar wanda Benjaminamín Argumedo ke gudanarwa. Mun zaunar da kanmu a teburin tare da jan tebur mai farin ja da fari.
Sauran tafiye-tafiye sun zo cikin tunani na: wanda muka yi shekaru da suka gabata don ziyarci Yucatán bin babbar hanyar bakin teku, wanda har yanzu ba shi da gadoji kuma cewa don ƙetare koguna dole ne mu yi shi a cikin pangas; tafiya mai hatsari daga Tapachula zuwa Tijuana a cikin jiragen da a wancan lokacin suka yi tafiyar cikin kwanaki masu kyau; ziyarar Monte Alban a cikin Mexico-Oaxaca tafiya hakan yana da dubun dubatar hanyoyi a kan hanya. Duk waɗannan tafiye-tafiyen sun daɗe, har ma da gajiya, cike da abubuwan mamaki da nuances, amma babu ɗayansu da mun kasance cikin keɓantaccen wuri da keɓantaccen wuri. Lokacin da mutanen da ke waƙa suka tafi, sai na je ƙofar don ganin yadda suka ɓace a cikin dajin daji.
Ba da daɗewa ba bayan haka, mun ci gaba da hanyarmu da ta kai mu Durango sannan zuwa garin Parral, Chihuahua. Lokacin da sanyi ya kara tsananta, sai muka dawo ta wannan hanyar, direban ya daina tsayawa a "birni", wanda a wayewar gari ya zama kamar fatalwar birni. El Espinazo ya ba mu mamaki, dan yin bacci yayin wucewa ta gindinta, ba tare da furta kalma ba. Shekaru da yawa sun shude kuma ban sami wanda ya tsallake kashin shaidan a cikin babbar motar rudu ba, wani lokacin ina tunanin cewa wannan hanyar ba ta wanzu kuma komai ya samo asali ne daga tsinkayen tafiya zuwa tsakiyar tsaunin Durango.
