Turawan da suka fara zirga-zirga a karon farko a cikin ruwan Tekun Bermejo sun dimauce da yanayin da suka ci karo da shi yayin farkawa; abin fahimta ne cewa sun yi tsammani a matsayin tsibiri abin da ya zama yankin teku.
Sun tuka jiragen ruwa sun lura da kananan tsibirai wadanda ba komai bane face dunkulan tsaunuka da jiragen ruwa wadanda suka bullo miliyoyin shekaru da suka gabata a cikin gulf har sai da suka wuce matakin teku suka sami hasken rana. Ba abu ne mai wahala a yi tunanin ba, a waccan lokacin, tsallen da ake yi na dolphins na murnar isowar maharan da dangin mamakin kifayen da ke kallon baƙi.
Turawan da suka fara zirga-zirga a karon farko a cikin ruwan Tekun Bermejo sun dimauce da yanayin da suka gamu da shi a hanyarsu; abin fahimta ne cewa sun yi tsammani a matsayin tsibiri abin da ya zama yankin teku. Sun tuka jiragen ruwa sun lura da kananan tsibirai wadanda ba komai bane face tarin tsaunukan tsaunuka da jiragen ruwa wadanda suka bullo miliyoyin shekaru da suka gabata a cikin gulf har sai sun wuce matakin teku kuma sun sami hasken rana. Ba abu ne mai wahala a yi tunanin ba, a waccan lokacin, tsallen da ake yi na dolphins na murnar isowar maharan da dangin mamatan da ke kallon baƙi.
Waɗannan tsibirai, waɗanda mazaunan samaniya, da na ruwa da na mazaunan ƙasa suka mamaye, a gaban idanun masu balaguron, masu ɗaukaka da kuma keɓewa a gaɓar tekun kudu na sashin teku wanda Saliyo de La Giganta ya nada.
Wataƙila wata dama ce ko karkatacciyar hanyar da ke jan ragamar mutanen kirki waɗanda ke neman wata hanyar zuwa bakin kogin; Tare da wucewar lokaci aka ci gaba da tafiye-tafiyen, balaguron ya bi daya bayan daya, sabuwar nahiyar ta bayyana a taswirorin kuma a kansu "tsibirin" na Kalifoniya tare da theiran uwansu mata.
A cikin 1539, wani balaguron da Hernán Cortés ya tallafawa kuma a ƙarƙashin umarnin Francisco de Ulloa ya isa daidai da bakin Kogin Colorado. Wannan ya haifar, ƙarni ɗaya daga baya, zuwa canji a cikin zane-zanen duniya na lokacin: hakika ya kasance yankin teku ne ba na lokacin ba: hakika yankin teku ne ba yanki ne na tsibiri ba, kamar yadda suke tsammani a baya.
Bankunan lu'u-lu'u da aka gano kusa da tashar jirgin ruwa ta Santa Cruz, a yau La Paz, kuma wataƙila karin gishiri - abin da ke ba da labarin yawancin abubuwan da aka rubuta a lokacin cin nasara - ya bayyana burin sababbin masu kasada.
Mulkin mallaka na Sonora da Sinaloa a tsakiyar karni na goma sha bakwai da kafuwar aikin Loreto a 1697 a kudancin yankin teku shine farkon ƙarni masu girma.
Ba wai kawai yanayin muhalli ya sha wahalar sabbin baƙi ba, har ila yau Pericúes da Cochimíes, mazaunan autochthonous, cututtuka sun lalata su; A cikin sa, an rage Yaquis da Seris zuwa matsakaicin waɗancan yankuna inda suke motsi da yardar kaina.
Amma a rabi na biyu na karni na 19 da rabin farko na 20, fasaha tana ninka karfin mutum: kamun kifi, harkar noma mai yawa da hakar ma'adanai. Gudun koguna kamar su Colorado, Yaqui, Mayo da Fuerte, da sauransu, sun daina ciyar da ruwan gulbi sannan dabbobi da tsire-tsire, waɗanda ke cikin sarƙar abinci mai sarkakiya a wasu lokuta da ba a iya fahimtarsu, sun yi tsayayya da tasirin.
Me ya faru ga tsibiran da ke Kudancin Tekun Cortez? Su ma abin ya shafa. Guano da tsuntsayen suka ajiye a cikin dubunnan shekaru an kai shi zuwa wasu ƙasashe don yin taki; ma'adinan zinare da gishirin an yi amfani da su, wanda a kan lokaci ya zama ba shi da riba; yawancin nau'ikan halittun ruwa irin su vaquita sun shiga cikin raga-raga; an bar tsibiran da wasu watakila lalacewar da ba za a iya gyarawa ba kuma tare da ƙananan maƙwabta a cikin teku.
Kamar 'yan kallo da aka buɗe a cikin kyakkyawan wuri mai faɗi, tsibiran sun ga shekaru da yawa wucewar jirgin ruwa, wanda a lokacin ƙarni na ƙarshe ya yi tafiya daga San Francisco, California, ya shiga Amurka bayan ƙetare ruwan Kogin Colorado; sun kasance basa canzawa a gaban kwale-kwalen kamun kifi da ragar su; sun kasance shaidu kowace rana game da bacewar nau'ikan da yawa.
Amma har yanzu suna wurin kuma tare da su tsoffin 'yan hayar da suka yi taurin kai waɗanda suka yi tsayayya ba kawai wucewar lokaci ba har ma da canjin yanayi na duniya kuma, sama da duka, aikin wuce gona da iri na waɗanda iya zama abokansu koyaushe: maza.
Me muke samu yayin yin tafiya ta teku daga Puerto Escondido, a cikin gundumar Loreto, zuwa tashar jirgin ruwa ta La Paz, kusan a ƙarshen teku? Abin da ya bayyana a gabanmu babban hoto ne mai ban mamaki, ƙwarewar gaske. Zuwa ga kyawawan dabi'un tekun da aka datse ta hanyar bayanan bakin teku da siffofi masu ban sha'awa na tsibirin ana kara ziyarar dolphins, whales, tsuntsayen da suke da fasali mai saurin tashi, da kuma 'yan kwalliya don neman abinci. Hayaniyar da zakunan teku ke fitarwa suna motsawa, yayin da suke ɗungume da juna suna sheƙi da rana kuma suna wanka da ruwan da ya fasa kan duwatsu.
Mai lura sosai zai yaba da sifar tsibirai akan taswira da gefenta a kan ƙasa; raƙuman rairayin bakin teku masu da bay, waɗanda suka yi daidai da waɗanda ke yankin Caribbean; laushi a kan duwatsu waɗanda ke bayyana shekarun duniyarmu.
Kwararru kan tsirrai masu yaduwa da dabbobi za su ga murtsatsi a wurin, mai rarrafe, da mamilaria, da baƙon kurege, a takaice: biznagas, haɗiye, iguanas, kadangaru, macizai, rattlesnakes, bera, heron, hawks, pelicans da sauransu.
Masu nutsuwa za su ji daɗin mafi kyawun shimfidar wurare a ƙarƙashin ruwa da nau'ikan halittu na musamman, wanda ya faro daga katuwar squid zuwa fractals na duniya na kifin kifi; masunta na wasanni za su sami kifin kifi da marlin; da masu ɗaukar hoto, da ikon ɗaukar mafi kyawun hotuna. Wurin yana da kyau ga waɗanda suka taɓa son kasancewa da kansu shi kaɗai ko kuma waɗanda suke so su raba wa ƙaunatattun su kwarewar sanin tsiri na teku wanda, duk da ɓarna, da alama babu wanda ya taɓa shi.
Tsibiran Coronado, El Carmen, Danzante, Monserrat, Santa Catalina, Santa Cruz, San José, San Francisco, Partida, Espíritu Santo da Cerralvo tsibirin taurari ne wanda ya zama dole a kiyaye shi don kyawun yanayi da damar gani.
Kowannensu yana da abubuwan jan hankali na musamman: babu wanda zai iya manta bakin teku a tsibirin Monserrat; gabatar da Danzante; babban kogin San Francisco; masanan gari da shuke-shuke a San José; madubin rana a kan tsibirin El Carmen, cibiyar kiwo na tumakin ƙaho; hoton da ba za a iya kuskurewa ba na Los Candeleros da wani abin birgewa a tsibirin na Partida ko Espíritu Santo, ko hawan ruwa ya yi sama ko ƙasa, da kuma faɗuwar rana da ba za a iya gani a Tekun Cortez ba.
Duk abin da za a ce kuma a yi don kiyaye wannan yanki na yankinmu kaɗan ne. Lallai ne mu tabbata cewa makomar tsibiran da ke Kudancin Tekun Cortez zai dogara ne da ɗaukar wannan wuri a matsayin babban lura da ɗabi'ar da duk wani baƙo zai iya kalla muddin bai shafi kyawawan kewayensa ba.
FARALLÓN NA ISLA PARTIDA: FARIN CIKI MAI FARUWA
Dutsen Tsibiri na Partida mafaka ne na musamman na dabbobin daji: yana da dimbin yawan tsuntsayen da ke cikin ruwa.
Tsuntsayen Booby suna gida a cikin ramuka na tsaunuka, kuma ana ganin su cikin kishi suna kwai ƙwai, maza da mata suna jujjuyawar neman abinci. Yana da kyau a lura dasu har yanzu, tare da shudayen kafafu, ruwan goron ruwan kasa kamar buhu da farin kai tare da nuna "ban tafi ba". Karkunan teku suna da yawa kuma galibi suna tsaye a gefen rami mara kyau, suna kallon teku don neman makarantun kifi; Wani daga cikin wuraren da ya fi so shi ne koli na cacti cewa, daga yawan alhini, yana kama da dusar ƙanƙara. Tsuntsayen jirgin ruwa masu tashi sama a sama, tare da irin suransu na dogayen fuka-fuki, kwatankwacin jemagu. Pelicans sun fi son duwatsu a bakin teku kuma suna tafiya daga tsoma don tsoma neman abinci. Hakanan akwai cormorants har ma da wasu magpies, mai yiwuwa a kan titin jirgin ruwa na yawon shakatawa.
Babban abin jan hankalin dutsen shine mulkin mallaka na zakunan teku.
A lokacin bazara, masana kimiyyar halittu daga Jami'ar Baja California Sur suna gudanar da kidaya don yin rikodin karuwar jama'a.
Da yawa daga cikin kyarketai suna zuwa nan ne kawai don suyi aure kuma suna da theira youngansu; an kafa mulkin mallaka da farko a cikin wuraren da ake kira wolfholes, kodayake mafi ƙanƙancin samfuran suna ɗauke da duk wani dutse da zasu iya hawa, a ƙasan dutsen. Suna haifar da babban abin kunya tare da neman auren su da shari'ar su; ruckus yana dadewa duk rana.
Yayin da ake saduwa, maza sun kayyade yankunansu, wadanda suke karewa da tsananin himma; a can suke kula da mata masu yawa na mata.
Manyan ƙasa kawai ake jayayya, tunda ana ɗaukar teku mallakar jama'a. Yaƙe-yaƙe tsakanin mazan da yawa suna yawaita, kuma babu rashin mace wacce, wanda wani mayaudari ya yaudare ta, ta gudu daga harem. Mazajen da suka fi karfi suna da ban sha'awa, musamman idan suka fusata kuma suka yi kara da karfi don tsoratar da duk wanda ya kuskura ya shiga yankin su. Duk da yanayin da suke da shi da kuma kasala, suna iya yin tafiyar sama da kilomita 15 a awa guda a hare-harensu don tsoratar da abokin gaba.
Karkashin tekun akwai wata duniya ta daban, amma dai kamar yadda take kayatarwa.
Manyan makarantun sardines suna iyo sosai; bodiesananan jikin suran sandar suna walƙiya azurfa. Hakanan akwai kifayen launuka da launuka iri iri, tare da mummunan yanayi. Wasu lokuta zaka ga stingrays wadanda suke "tashi" a hankali har sai sun bata a cikin zurfin teku, suna barinmu da jin dadin rayuwa wani bakon mafarki a hankali.
Source: Ba a san Mexico ba No. 251 / Janairu 1998
