KASADA A CIKIN KWARIN NAVOJOA, SONORA

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Da zaran mun tashi daga tashar jirgin sama kuma ba tare da juzu'i da yawa ba, yayin da suke can arewacin, sai suka ce min: "tseren ya rigaya ya shirya don ba shi".

Kodayake ba mu yi magana sosai da yawa ba kafin tafiya, kawai yana da alƙawarinsa cewa zai rayu cikin abin da ba za a taɓa mantawa da shi ba. Duk da haka dai, ban san abin da ke faruwa ba, duk yadda na yi ƙoƙari na kasa tunanin yawan tseren da zai iya kasancewa ko yadda za su iya zama, amma ina gab da ganowa.

Daga gani, ba hankali

Lokacin da muka isa otal din mun haɗu da Jesús Bouvet, wanda ke kula da ƙungiyar Lobo Aventurismo a Navojoa, kuma kawai daga ganin keken da yake kawowa, na san cewa "tseren" hakika an shirya shi sosai. Tare da Carlos da Pancho mun shirya hanyar, jadawalin da kayan aikin da muke buƙata. A ƙasa da rabin sa'a ya bayyana gare ni cewa a nan, ban da barkono barkono da sha'ir, suna ɗanɗana kamar kasada. Wataƙila irin wannan tunanin ne, amma yana da wahala a gare ni in yi tunanin wani manomi ko masani kan harkar gona ya sauko daga babbar motarsa - hula da takalmin da ya dace sosai - don ya ba da haƙoransa ya fita yana tinkaho da keken da aka dakatar.

A karkashin shawara babu yaudara

Mun yarda da hanyar tafiya da duk bayanan kayan aiki. Abubuwan tallafi masu nauyi: kayak, igiyoyi, kekuna da dawakai, da ƙananan bayanai, hasken rana, abin ƙyama da kayayyaki ga kowane fita. Sannan tambaya ta taso: mu nawa ne? Wanne zai iya zama da kyau: guda nawa za mu iya dacewa? Kuma shine yayin da suke kirgawa, kawai zan iya tuna kalaman abokina, "tseren an shirya shi da kyau" ... Ban taɓa ganin irin wannan sha'awar ba, da gaske ban iya magana ba.

Rana 1Moroncarit estuary, aljannar tsuntsaye

Muna buƙatar manyan motoci guda uku don iya jigilar kayaku takwas - akasari ninki biyu da uku - zuwa tashar jiragen ruwa ta Yávaros, sanannen ba kawai don sardines ba, amma don kyawun yanayin kewayensa. Mun fara shiga layin mangrove, wanda mafaka ce ga dubban mazauna da kuma tsuntsayen teku masu kaura, daruruwan brantas, heron, cranes, white and brown pelicans, agwagi (haɗiye da baƙo), ruwan hoda na ruwa, nau'ikan kwalliya daban-daban, frigates da zakoki na teku, suna jujjuyawa a kowane kusurwar wannan wuri. Ban taba ganin tsuntsaye da yawa haka ba. Yin kwalliya ba fasaha ba ce sosai a buɗe mangrove, amma a kan hanya akwai wasu rassa inda ya kamata ku yi aiki da daidaito, ba wai kawai saboda haɗarin kamuwa tsakanin rassa ba, amma saboda ɗan ƙaramin hayaniya na iya haifar da harin sauro kusan 5,000, wanda ba a ba da shawarar ba. Don ganin tsuntsaye yana da mahimmanci a jere a cikin nutsuwa, in ba haka ba kusan ba zai yuwu a kusanci ba.

Mun ji daɗin wannan kyakkyawar wurin sosai har muka yanke shawarar jurewa da "rush hour" - wanda sauro ke mamaye komai - don shaida faɗuwar rana, wanda a wannan yankin abin kallo ne na gaskiya. Af, sha'awar da Spiro ya rubuta game da halayen wannan bambancin na tsuntsaye abin yaɗuwa ne sosai, har ya zama dukkanmu muna gwagwarmayar amfani da na'urar hangen nesa ta sa, saboda baya barin abubuwan hangen nesa ko bisa kuskure, kuma hakan ya wuce Bincikensa mai cike da tsantsan - har zuwa yanzu ya yi rijistar nau'ikan tsuntsaye 125 -, ya sami damar shigar da bangaren kasuwanci na Huatabampo don kirkirar Fundación Mangle Negro, AC

Rana ta 2 Domin neman zaki teku

Washegari da safe mun tashi da wuri don komawa wannan tashar, wannan lokacin muyi tafiya ta teku don neman zakin teku da ke zaune a waɗannan yankuna. Duk da cewa su kananan karnuka ne, suna da kyau matuka saboda yanayin zamantakewar da wadannan dabbobi masu shayarwa suka nuna a gaban mutane. Mun hau jirgi tare da gadar da aka kone kuma muka wuce dutsen da suke yawaitawa kuma babu sa'a. Bayan haka, Spiro ya ce: "babu wata hanya, bari mu je rairayin bakin teku mu gani idan akwai tsuntsaye marasa wayo", wanda da alama ba shi da matukar alfahari da zai fada, amma nan da nan na fito daga kuskure na. Yayin da muka matso kusa, sai na fara yin wani wuri a bakin rairayin bakin teku wanda yake da faɗin tsawan kimanin mita 50 ko 60. Lallai, akwai tsuntsaye da yawa a wurin, ɗarurruwansu, wataƙila dubu, kuma ga mamakina wannan ba shine makamarmu ba. Bayan 'yan kilomitoci daga baya mun kasance a gaban babban faci, mai tsayin kusan mita 400, wanda aka kafa ta cormorants da shuɗin ƙafa mai ƙafafun shuɗi. Pancho ya fada min cewa suna jirana a wajen domin da zaran na sanya kafata cikin yashi zasu tashi, kuma haka abin yake, da zaran na sauko garken dabbobi tsuntsaye 100 zuwa 200 suka fara a lokaci daya, suna daukar daya bayan daya a wani abin kallo ba tare da daidai ba. A cikin 'yan mintoci kaɗan rairayin bakin teku ba kowa.

Duk da halin da ake ciki a kanmu, wanda ya sa dawowarmu ke da wuya, har yanzu mun tsaya don lura da gidajan masu binciken kwalliyar da, da kyau a sake kamani, ana iya samun 'yan mitoci kaɗan daga gabar. Da isowarmu, sai muka haɗu da wani dangin kifayen dolphin da ke ciyarwa a gaban rairayin bakin teku, waɗanda ke hidimar rufe tafiyar da ci gaba.

Mafi girman ganuwa a cikin kwari
Kowa zai ishe shi da takaddar safiyar safe, amma an riga an tsara hawa zuwa mafi girma a cikin kwarin, don haka bayan cin abinci mai kyau mun tafi Etchojoa, inda keɓaɓɓun tsaunuka masu tsaunuka bakwai suka tsaya a waje: Bayajórito, Moyacahui , Junelancahui, La Campana, Oromuni, Totocame da Babucahui, daga cikinsu Mayocahui shine mafi girma (tsayin mita 150), kodayake baya wakiltar babban kalubale, ra'ayi daga sama ya cancanci hakan. Dutsen yana cike da nau'ikan cacti da mesquite, wadanda tsuntsaye daban-daban ke amfani da su, kamar su bishiyar jejin daji, da shudi mai launin shudi, walt na arewa da kuma mai kama da iska mafi girma, falgalin peregrine.

Rana ta 3 Dokin Karfe

Tunanin mai kiwon dabbobi a cikin gajeren wando da ke tuka keken tsaunin ya kasance har yanzu baƙon abu ne, amma Jesús da Guillermo Barrón sun kasa haƙura da “ba ni kunci” a kan hanyoyin da su kansu suka bi a cikin Rancho Santa Cruz. Wanene zai yi tunanin cewa Memo zakaran gwajin dafi ne kuma yana daya daga cikin fitattun masu kekuna a kasa a cikin manyan rukunoni? Watau, aboki "ya buge" sosai a kan wannan. Gabaɗaya, suna amfani da gibin da shanu suka bari yayin wucewarsu ta kan tsaunuka, wanda dole ne a kiyaye shi lokaci-lokaci, saboda kodayake a nan ciyawar ba ta girma kamar yadda yake a kudancin Jamhuriyar, karo da mesquite ko wani nau'in murtsunguwa na iya zama mummunan mafarki mai ban tsoro ga kowane mai keke. Yanayin wuri yana canzawa sosai tare da yanayi, don haka hanyoyin koyaushe suna da banbanci. A lokacin damina, korayen yakan fashe a kowace kusurwa; kuma a cikin fari, rassan launin ruwan kasa suna haɗuwa da launi na ƙasa kuma yana da sauƙi a ɓace a kan hanyoyin. Ni da Spiro mun daɗe muna ƙoƙari mu nemo alamun hanyar jubili, inda sauran suka tafi. Ya kasance abin ban mamaki sosai, saboda muna jin su, amma ba mu gan su ba, ya zama kamar suna rufe da buroshi.

Rana ta 4 da 5 Sirrin San Bernardo

A wannan matakin tafiya na gamsu da cewa wannan yankin yana ba da kasada ga dukkan dandano, amma ban san cewa wani abin mamakin yana jira na ba. Carlos ya ba ni labarin abubuwa da yawa game da kyawun San Bernardo, arewacin Álamos, kusan a kan iyaka da Chihuahua. Bayan 'yan awowi muna tafiya, motar da Lalo, Abraham, Pancho, Spiro da ni za mu je a ƙarshe ta tsaya a gaban Divisadero Hotel, a tsakiyar San Bernardo, inda Lauro da danginsa suka riga mu jiran mu. Bayan cin abincin rana sai aka fara balaguron. Aljanna ce ta abubuwan kirkirar dutsen! A lokacin da muka dawo otal din, sun riga sun shirya mana naman alade tare da shugabannin hukumomin garin. Washegari mun tashi, wasu a kan dawakai wasu kuma a kan alfadarai, ta rafin da aka fi sani da Los Enjambres, wanda yake abin kallo ne na gaske.

Da wannan tafiyarmu ta ƙare, muna godiya ƙwarai da muka raba abubuwan da ba za a taɓa mantawa da su ba tare da waɗanda suka marabce mu kuma suka nuna mana wannan aljanna ta 100% ta Mexico don masu son kasada.