Wace tufafi aka yi amfani da shi a Meziko a wannan muhimmin lokacin tarihinta? Mexico da ba a sani ba ta bayyana maka ...
A cikin Meziko, an kusanto da salon salo ta hanyar sifa, ba tare da hanyoyin da suka dace ba wadanda ake la'akari da su a cikin babban yanayin zamantakewar jama'a. Wannan shine dalilin da ya sa ya zama wajibi don bayar da shawarar, don nazarin nan gaba, ganin batun tufafin da ya fi yawa a cikin yanayin zamantakewar da ya shafi yanayin al'adu da akida. Kuma tabbas, yana da mahimmanci a sanya wannan batun a cikin rayuwar yau da kullun ta mutanen Meziko na ƙarni na goma sha tara a duk matakan zamantakewar, don zurfafa fahimtarsa.
Cikakken bayanin halaye na hurarrun tufafi, musamman Turawa, wadanda suka dace da yanayinmu bai isa ba; maimakon haka, ya fi dacewa a yi la’akari da batun tufafi da ke aiki a rabin rabin karni na sha tara a Meziko, sakamakon abubuwa biyu na asali. A gefe guda, ra'ayi, babban ra'ayi game da mata, hotonsu da ayyukansu a duk matakan zamantakewar, yanayin da ke tafiya tare da halaye na yanzu a cikin adabi da fasaha. A wani bangaren kuma, karancin ci gaban masana'antar masaku a kasarmu da kuma damar shigo da yadudduka da kayan kwalliya wadanda suka dace da kayan tufafin zamani da aka saba amfani dasu. A lokacin Porfiriato masana'antun masaku sun bunkasa, kodayake abubuwan da suke samarwa sun maida hankali kan samar da auduga da yadudduka.
Rigunan mata, kayan botoci, riguna, corsets, ledo bodices, pettiat da yawa, crinolines, crinolines, camisoles, camisoles, frú, sillar siliki, pouf, bustle, da sauransu; adadi mara iyaka na fararen tufafi, auduga ko lilin, wanda ta hakan ne aka tanadi cewa matan mata su inganta kyawun su. Wide kayan haɗi da yawa irin su umbrellas, huluna, gyale, abin wuya na lace, safar hannu, jaka, sneakers, takalmin ƙafa, da sauransu.
A rabi na biyu na karni na 19, ra'ayin da ake yadawa shine cewa mata, ta hanyar kasantuwarsu, kayan adonsu da tufafinsu, sun ba maza girma kuma sun kasance misali mai rai na nasarar tattalin arzikinsu, mizani ne mai karfi tsakanin wadanda ake kira “mutanen gashi ".
Bayan shekaru bayan samun 'yanci, a ƙarƙashin tasirin Napoleonic, matsattsun rigunan tubular na zamanin Masarautar Iturbide a hankali sun fara faɗaɗa ta hanyar "salon" wanda mata ba su taɓa yin amfani da masana'anta da yawa haka ba. Marquesa Calderón de la Barca ta yi magana akan “wadatattun riguna” duk da cewa wani tsohon yayi ne da matan Mexico ke sanyawa, waɗanda aka bambanta da wadatar kayan adonsu.
Tsakanin 1854 da 1868, kuma musamman a lokacin shekarun Maximilian's Empire, crinolines da crinolines sun kai kololuwarsu, waɗanda ba komai bane face tsarukan da zasu iya tallafawa siket har zuwa mita uku a diamita kuma kusan mita talatin a zane Siffar matar, saboda haka, ta gumaka ce wacce ba za a iya shiga ba wacce ke nisanta muhallin ta daga nesa. Ba za a iya samunsa ba a matsayin mai nuna soyayya, mai nuna annashuwa da kuma son zuciya ta bambanta da gaskiyar yau da kullun: yi tunanin irin wahalar da ke tattare da zama ko zagayawa, da kuma rashin jin daɗin aiwatar da rayuwar yau da kullun.
Antonio García Cubas, a cikin gagarumin aikinsa Littafin Tunawa da Ni, ya yi nuni ga wannan salon da ya fito daga Paris wanda “ya fallasa matan ga rikice-rikice da kunya”. Ya bayyana abin da ake kira "crinoline" a matsayin mai ɗamarar ɗamarar yaƙi da aka yi ta da zane ko kuma manne zane kuma crinoline ita ce "mai huda" da aka kafa "na ƙwanƙwasa huɗu zuwa biyar ko na bakin ƙarfe, daga ƙarami zuwa babba mai girma kuma an haɗa shi da ribbons na zane ". Wannan marubucin ya bayyana da alheri game da matsalolin da "mayaudara" crinoline ya bayar: ya tashi a ɗan ƙaramin matsin lamba, wanda aka nuna a cikin ruwa, yana bayyana ɓangaren ciki kuma ya zama "maras ma'ana" a rahamar iska. Don wasan kwaikwayo da wasan opera, da kuma a tarurruka da liyafa na maraice, an inganta layin wuya, tare da kafaɗun kafa, kuma an sauƙaƙa fasalin hannayen riga da tsayin daka. Musamman, an nuna zagaye na jiki a cikin sararin sama masu karimci, wanda waɗanda ke Mexico sun fi dacewa, idan muka kwatanta su da amfani a wannan batun a kotun Faransa ta Eugenia de Montijo.
Da rana, musamman don halartar taro, matan sun sauƙaƙa tufafinsu kuma suka saka mantilla da sifannin Spain da mayafin siliki, ƙarami, ko kuma an rufe su da kyallen siliki. García Cubas yana nufin cewa babu wanda yake sanye da hular hat zuwa coci. Game da waɗannan kayan haɗi, marubucin ya ayyana su da cewa "waɗancan tukwane da aka cika da furanni, waɗancan gidajen tsuntsaye da na'urorin da ba za a iya amfani da su ba da zare, gashin fuka-fukai da fikafikan hankaka waɗanda mata ke sawa a kawunansu kuma ana kiransu da huluna."
Don karin bayani game da rigunan, har yanzu ba a samu isasshen fadada da kuma keɓaɓɓun masana'antun masaku a cikin abubuwan da ake kerawa a cikin ƙasarmu ba, saboda haka mafi yawan yadudduka aka shigo da su kuma an sanya rigunan ta hanyar kwaikwayon samfuran Turai, musamman na Paris, ta masu suturar ko 'yan asalin dinkin mata. Akwai shagunan da masu mallakar Faransa suka siyar da samfuran kusan sau huɗu fiye da na Paris, saboda harajin kwastan da aka ƙara cikin ribar. Waɗannan kuɗi an biya su da farin ciki kawai ta ƙayyadaddun adadin mata masu kuɗi.
A nasu bangaren, matan garin sun dukufa wajen yin aiki - dillalan kayan lambu, furanni, 'ya'yan itatuwa, ruwa, bijimai, abinci, kuma a cikin ayyukansu, injin nika, iron dinki, mai wanki, mai cutar tamalera, buñolera da yawa da yawa tare da "madaidaiciyar baƙin gashinsu, fararen haƙoransu waɗanda ke nunawa da sakin fuska da dariya ..." - suna sanye da huipiles da mayafin launuka na ulu mai launi ko yadin auduga. Kayan adonsu sun kunshi "abin wuya da abin adana abubuwa, zoben azurfa a hannayensu da 'yan kunnen murjani na murjani" da' yan kunnen gwal, wanda kuma matar da ta yi enchiladas din, irinsu mai siyar da ruwan sabo. Tabbas, a matsayin tufar da babu makawa ita ce shawul, wanda aka yi da siliki ko auduga, wanda darajarsa ta dogara da tsawonta, surar ƙarshen da bayan matan da suka ɓoye: “suna ɓoye goshi, hanci da baki sai kawai su gani idanunsu tsarkakakke, kamar tsakanin matan larabawa… kuma idan basu saka su ba, da alama tsirara suke… ”Kasancewar matan gargajiyar gargajiyar ta fito waje, tana sanye da“ leda na ciki wanda aka saka da zanen ulu mai gashi a gefuna, wanda suke kira dabarun enchilada; a saman wannan dabbar kuma ana yin wani wanda aka yi da daddawa ko siliki wanda aka yi wa ado da zaren launuka masu launuka ko launuka masu haske; kyakkyawar rigar, an yi mata ado da siliki ko ɗamara ... da siliki na siliki wanda aka jefa a kafaɗa ... da gajeren ƙafarsa cikin takalmin satin ... "
Rigar maza, ba kamar ta mace ba, an kiyaye ta sosai cikin kwanciyar hankali da aikin aiki. Manoman ƙasar da makiyayan da rana ta ƙone, sun sa rigar da ba za a iya kuskurewa ba da kuma gajeren gajeren wando. Saboda haka samar da barguna na auduga wanda yawancin masana'antar Mexico suka tashi a ƙarshen ƙarni na 19.
Game da masu kiwon kuwa, tufafinsu sun kunshi "leer deede suree breeches, an kawata su a gefe tare da maballan azurfa ... wasu suna sanya kyalle da zoben zinare ...", hular da aka kawata da shawl na azurfa, manyan fikafukai kuma zuwa ga gefen gilashin "wasu farantin azurfa a cikin siffar gaggafa ko farin zinare". Ya rufe jikinsa tare da hannun Acámbaro, wani nau'in kabet, da kange daga Saltillo, ana ɗauka mafi kyau.
Suitsin maza sune sutura, tare da hular sama, wutsiyar atamfa, kayan soja, ko ranchero ko kayan ado. Tufafin maza ya kasance kusan iri ɗaya tun lokacin da Benito Juárez da ƙungiyar masu sassaucin ra'ayi suka yi amfani da rigar baƙin, waɗanda suka yi alfahari da kiyaye tsarin mulkin jamhuriya a matsayin alama ta gaskiya da kyakkyawan gwamnati. Wannan halayyar har ta kai ga matan aure. Yana da kyau a tuna da ambaton wasiƙar da Margarita Maza de Juárez ta rubuta wa mijinta: “Duk ƙyalli na ya ƙunshi rigar da kuka sayo mini a Monterrey shekaru biyu da suka gabata, wanda shi kaɗai nake da shi na yau da kullun kuma ina adana shi lokacin da zan yi wani abu. sawa alama ... "
Yayin da karni na goma sha tara ya ƙare, ƙwarewar masana'antun masaku da raguwar farashin yadin auduga, har yanzu ana haɗe tare da sha'awar rufewa da ɓoyewa, yana 'yantar da mata daga crinoline, amma yana daɗa hargitsi da saura kifin whale corset. A wajajen 1881, an yi riguna masu kyau na matan Mexico waɗanda aka yi su a cikin yadudduka daban-daban, kamar siliki faya, kuma an kawata su da ƙyalli: “Matan sun yi taƙaddama kan kunkuntar kugu, an cimma su da murfin corsets sosai har ma sun dauke numfashinsu. sun sanya su sanyin gwiwa, waɗanda suka shahara a cikin yadin da yadin da aka saka, aikace-aikace, roƙe-roko da aikin kroidre. Matar lokacin ta yi karatu da daidaitattun motsi kuma adadinta cike da kayan ado yana nuna alamar soyayya ”.
Wajen 1895, nau'ikan yadudduka sun ƙaru cikin silks, karafuna, satins, yadin da aka saka na gargajiya wanda yake nuna wadatar zuci. Mata sun zama masu ƙwazo, alal misali, don yin wasu wasanni kamar wasan tennis, golf, wasan keke da iyo. Bugu da kari, silhouette din mata tana kara zama mai tsafta.
Lokacin da manyan yadudduka suka bace, a wajajen 1908 an gama kammala kwalliyar, don haka bayyanar jikin mace ya canza sosai kuma a farkon karni na 20 rigunan sun kasance masu santsi da sako-sako. Bayyanar mata suna canzawa sosai kuma sabon halayensu yana ba da sanarwar shekaru masu zuwa da za su zo.
Source: Mexico a Lokaci Na 35 Maris / Afrilu 2000
