Miƙa mulki daga ƙarni ɗaya zuwa wani yana da alama yana aiki a matsayin dalilin sauyawa. Farkon sabon zamani yana bamu damar barin komai a baya mu fara; ba tare da wata shakka ba, lokaci ne na fata.
Bayanin juyin halittar tarihi koyaushe karnuka suke bamu kuma da alama sun raba su. Tunanin ci gaba an gina shi tare da kwatancen zamani kuma karnin yana da alama shine lokacin da ya dace don nazarin jerin abubuwan al'ajabi don haka ya zama yana iya fahimtar halayenmu.
Farkon karnin da zamu kawo karshen shi ko kuma muke shirin kawo karshen shi lokaci ne da canji zai kusanto da kuma salo, kamar koyaushe, yana nuna halayen da al'umma ke bi. Ana kashe ƙarin kuɗi don nishaɗi da tufafi. Lalata cikin almubazzaranci a cikin lamuran siyasa kuma manyan jam'iyyun suna mamaye mafi yawan lokuta a duk matakan zamantakewa.
A cikin al'amuran zamani, shekarun ashirin sune farkon hutu tare da al'adun mata na dogayen siket, tufafi marasa kyau da matsattsun kugu ta hanyar suturar mutane. Ba a amfani da siffar mace mai siffa ta "S" daga shekarun da suka gabata. Labari ne game da abin kunya, kasancewa a cikin duniyar da maza ke mamaye da ita. Siffar mace ta sami sifar siliki, ta ba da samfurin halaye na wannan lokacin, mai tsayin daka, a tsayin daka ba tare da sanya alamar kugu ba.
Hutu ne ba kawai a cikin fashion. Mata suna sane da halin da suke ciki game da maza kuma ba sa son hakan, kuma wannan shi ne yadda suke fara kasancewa a wuraren da ba a ga mace da kyau ta gudanar da ayyukan da aka yi niyya ga maza ba, kamar wasanni; ya zama gaye don yin wasan tanis, golf, wasan polo, ninkaya, har ma kayan wasan motsa jiki sun kasance na musamman kuma sun nuna tsoro ga lokacin. Ruwan wankan kananun kaya ne, amma daga nan suka fara yankan yadi ba tare da tsayawa ba har sai da suka kai kananan kayan bakin ruwa na zamaninmu. A zahiri, kayan ciki ma suna fuskantar canje-canje; rikitattun corsets a hankali zasu rikide su zama na jiki kuma takalmin mama mai siffofi daban-daban ya fito.
Matar ta fara fita zuwa kan titi, don gudanar da ayyukanda inda motsi kyauta ya zama dole; tsawon siket da riguna sannu a hankali ya taƙaita zuwa idon sawun, kuma a cikin 1925 an ƙaddamar da siket ɗin a gwiwa a kan abubuwan hawa. Haushin zamantakewar maza ya kai har Archbishop na Naples ya kuskura ya ce girgizar kasa da aka yi a Amalfi nuna fushin Allah ne na karɓar gajerun siket a cikin tufafin mata. Lamarin Amurka daidai yake; A Utah, an gabatar da wata doka wacce za ta biya da kuma daure mata saboda sanya siket din sama da inci uku sama da idon sawu; a Ohio, tsayin siket din da aka yarda ya yi ƙasa, bai tashi sama da ƙwarewar ba. Tabbas, ba a taɓa karɓar waɗannan ƙididdigar ba, amma maza, idan aka yi musu barazana, suna yaƙi da dukkan makamansu don hana tawayen mata. Hatta garters din da ke rike da safa, wanda sabon tsinin siket din ya gano, ya zama sabon kayan aiki; Akwai su da duwatsu masu daraja kuma sun zo sunkai dala 30,000 a lokacin.
A cikin al'ummomin da yakin ya shafa kasancewar mata a tituna sun kasance iri ɗaya, amma dalilai sun bambanta. Duk da yake a cikin ƙasashe da yawa buƙatar canje-canje ga al'amuran zamantakewar al'umma, waɗanda suka kayar sun fuskanci ɓarna. Ya zama dole a sake gini daga gine-gine da tituna zuwa ga ran mazaunanta. Hanya guda daya ce ta fita ayi, mata sunyi hakan kuma canza tufafinsu ya zama larura.
Salon da za'a iya bayyana wannan zamanin shine ya bayyana a matsayin mai rikitarwa kamar yadda ya kamata. Tare da sifar silinda inda aka ɓoye ɓoye na mata - a wasu lokutan ma za su kan ɗaura nononsu don ƙoƙarin ɓoyewa - aski ne. A karo na farko mace ta bar dogon gashinta da salon kwalliyarta masu rikitarwa; Wani sabon abin sha'awa ya tashi. Yankan, da ake kira garçonne (yarinya, cikin Faransanci) tare da sutturar maza na gaba ɗaya na taimaka musu ƙirƙirar wannan kyakkyawar manufa ta ɗabi'a bisa ɗabi'a. Tare da aski, an tsara huluna bisa ga sabon hoto. Salon cloche ya ɗauki sifa ta bin kwane-kwane na kai; wasu kuma suna da karamin baki, saboda haka ba zai yiwu a sanya su da dogon gashi ba. Gaskiyar masaniya game da saka hular ita ce cewa karamin bakin ya rufe wani sashi na idanunsu, don haka dole ne su yi tafiya tare da kawunansu a sama; Wannan yana nuna wakilci mai kyau game da sabon halayen mata.
A Faransa, Madeleine Vionet ta kirkiri aski "a kan bias" na hular, wanda ya fara tasiri ga halittarta, wanda sauran masu zane za su yi koyi da ita.
Wasu ƙananan mata masu tawaye sun zaɓi ba sa aski, amma sun tsara shi ta hanyar da ke ba da shawarar sabon salo. Ba abu mai sauƙi ba ne a gaya wa mace daga ɗaliban makaranta, sai dai don jan jan baki da inuwa mai haske a kan murfin ta. Kayan shafawa sun zama masu yawa, tare da karin layin da aka bayyana. Bakin 1920s siriri ne kuma mai siffa ta zuciya, tasirin da aka samu albarkacin sababbin kayayyaki. Layin siririn gira ma halayya ce, yana jaddada, ta kowace hanya, sauƙaƙa siffofin, duka a cikin kayan shafawa da kuma cikin sifofin ƙira waɗanda suka bambanta da sifofin rikitarwa na da.
Bukatun sabbin lokuta sun haifar da ƙirƙirar kayan haɗi waɗanda suka sa mace ta zama mai amfani, kamar shari'o'in sigari da akwatunan turare mai kamannin zobe. "Don kasancewa da shi koyaushe a yayin buƙata, a yanzu za ku iya adana turaren da kuka fi so a cikin zoben da aka keɓe musamman don wannan dalilin, wanda kuma ke ɗauke da ƙaramin kwalba a ciki." Wannan shine yadda mujallar El Hogar (Buenos Aires, Afrilu 1926) ke gabatar da wannan sabon samfurin. Sauran kayan haɗi masu mahimmanci sun haɗa da dogayen lu'u lu'u lu'u, ƙaramin jaka kuma, ƙarƙashin tasirin tashar Coco, kayan adon da ya zama na zamani a karon farko.
Gajiyawar siffofin da ke bayyane na sa salon ya zama mai sauƙi da amfani. Tsarkin tsari a cikin adawa da abubuwan da suka gabata, buƙatar canji daga kisan babban yaƙi na farko, ya sa mata sun fahimci cewa dole ne su rayu a halin yanzu, saboda makomar na iya zama ba ta da tabbas. Tare da yakin duniya na biyu da bayyanar bam din atom, za'a kara karfafa wannan ma'anar ta "rayuwa daga rana zuwa rana".
A wata hanyar kuma, yana da mahimmanci a ce gidajen ƙira, kamar "Doucet", "Doeuillet da Drécoll, waɗanda suka ƙirƙira ɗaukakar zamanin, ta hanyar rashin iya amsawa ga sabbin buƙatun al'umma, ko kuma ta hanyar masu adawa da canji, sun rufe kofofinsu suna bayar da dama ga sabbin masu zane kamar Madame Schiaparelli, Coco Channel, Madame Paquin, Madeleine Vione, da sauransu. Masu zane-zane sun kasance kusa da juyin juya halin ilimi; kyawawan al'adun gargajiya na farkon karni sun nuna tsayayyiyar rawar gani, karfin ruwa ya sabawa makarantar, wanda shine dalilin da yasa suka kasance masu kyawu.
Art ya mamaye rayuwar yau da kullun saboda yayi amfani dashi don ƙirƙirar. Sabbin masu zane-zane suna da alaƙa sosai da waɗannan abubuwan. Misali Schiaparelli, ya kasance wani ɓangare na ƙungiyar Surrealists kuma ya rayu kamar su. Marubutan Fashion sun ce da yake ta kasance mara kyau ƙwarai, ta ci tsaba fure don a haife ta da kyau, halayya irin ta zamani. An sha zarge ta da "daukar Apache zuwa Ritz" don hada da zane-zanen aji a cikin kayan aji na sama. Wani sanannen mutum, Coco Channel, ya koma cikin mahimmin ilimin, kuma yana da abokai kamar Dalí, Cocteau, Picasso, da Stravinsky. Batutuwan ilimin boko da suka mamaye ko'ina cikin tsarin kuma salon ba wani banbanci bane.
Yaɗa watsa labarai na zamani an yi shi ne ta hanyar manyan kafofin watsa labarai biyu, wasiƙa da fim ɗin fim. Sabbin samfurai an buga su a kasida kuma an aika su zuwa ƙauyuka masu nisa. Jama'a da ke cike da fargaba suna jiran mujallar da garin ya kawo gida, kamar sihiri. Suna iya zama duka a cikin yanayi kuma su mallake shi. Otherayan kuma, mafi kyawun matsakaici shine silima, inda manyan mutane suka kasance samfuran, wanda ya zama kyakkyawan dabarun talla, tunda jama'a sun haɗu da actorsan wasan kuma saboda haka sukayi ƙoƙarin yin koyi dasu. Wannan haka lamarin yake tare da mashahurin Greta Garbo wanda ya sanya alama a duk lokacin fim.
Matan Mexico a farkon shekaru goma na biyu na karni na 20 sun bambanta ta hanyar haɗuwa da al'adu da ƙa'idodin da dattawan su suka sanya; Koyaya, ba za su iya kasancewa daga cikin sauye-sauye na zamantakewa da al'adu da gwagwarmayar neman sauyi ta kawo ba. Rayuwar karkara ta rikide zuwa rayuwar birane kuma 'yan gurguzu na farko sun bayyana a yanayin ƙasar. Mata, musamman mahimman bayanai da wadata, sun ba da kansu ga sha'awar sabon salon, wanda a gare su ya kasance daidai da 'yanci.Frida Kahlo, Tina Modotti da Antonieta Rivas Mercado sune kan gaba cikin jerin samarin da yawa waɗanda, a cikin ayyukansu daban-daban, sun yi gwagwarmaya ba kakkautawa ga tsarin al'ada. Idan ya zo ga salon zamani, Kahlo ya yi ta maimaita maganganun masu zane-zane, da niyyar ceton ɗan Mexico na gaske; Bayan shaharar mawakin, mata da yawa sun fara sanya kayan gargajiya, don tserar da gashin kansu da launuka masu launi da tube, da kuma samun kayan ado na azurfa tare da abubuwan Mexico.
Game da Antonieta Rivas Mercado, wacce ke cikin ɗalibai masu kyau da yawa, tun tana ƙarama ta nuna tana da halin tawaye sabanin son zuciya. A shekara 10, a 1910, an yanke mata gashi a cikin salon Joan of Arc kuma a 20 “ta ɗauki salon Chanel a matsayin wanda ke ɗaukar ɗabi’ar da ta dace da yarda da ciki. Ya dace sosai da wannan salon na ladabi mai kyau, na karatu da kuma jin daɗin da ba'a lura dashi ba, wanda yake nema koyaushe. Ita, wacce ba mace ba ce tare da siffofin da aka fa'da, tana sanye da waɗancan riguna madaidaiciya waɗanda suka manta da ƙirji da kwatangwalo, kuma ta saki jiki tare da rigunan riguna waɗanda suka faɗi ba tare da abin kunya ba a cikin hoto mai tsabta.
Baki kuma ya zama launin da ya fi so. Har ila yau, a wancan lokacin an ɗora gashin garçonne, zai fi kyau baƙar fata kuma a ɗora shi da Valentino ”(An karɓa daga Antonieta, na Fabienne Bradu)
Yanayin shekarun ashirin, duk da kasancewar sa da kyau, alama ce ta tawaye. Kasancewa cikin yanayin kwalliya an dauke shi da mahimmanci, saboda halin mata ne ga jama'a. Centuryarnin na ashirin yana da yanayin raunin fashewa kuma shekarun ashirin sune farkon canji.
Source: México en el Tiempo A'a. 35 Maris / Afrilu 2000
