Matsakaicin zurfin Sinforosa ya kai mita 1 830 a mahangarta da ake kira Cumbres de Huérachi, kuma a ƙasansa akwai Kogin Verde, mafi mahimmin haraji na Kogin Fuerte.
Matsakaicin zurfin Sinforosa ya kai mita 1 830 a mahangarta da ake kira Cumbres de Huérachi, kuma a ƙasansa akwai Kogin Verde, mafi mahimmin haraji na Kogin Fuerte.
Lokacin da muka ji labarin ramuka ko kankara a cikin Saliyo Tarahumara, nan da nan sanannen Kogin Copper ya tuna; Koyaya, a cikin wannan yankin akwai wasu ramuka kuma Canyon Copper ba shine mafi zurfi ba, ko kuma ban mamaki ba. Waɗannan karramawan ana raba su tare da sauran kanunun.
A ra'ayina, ɗayan mafi ban sha'awa a cikin wannan tsaunin duka shi ne sananniyar ƙwarin Sinforosa, kusa da garin Guachochi.Misali Bernarda Holguín, sananniyar mai ba da sabis na yawon buɗe ido a yankin, ta kira shi da gaskiya " sarauniyar canyons ”. A karo na farko da na lura da shi, daga hangen nesa a Cumbres de Sinforosa, ban yi mamakin ganin kyawawan ɗabi'u da zurfin shimfidar sa ba, babu wani abu makamancin haka a duk abin da na gani a duwatsu har zuwa lokacin. Wani bangare na abin birgewa game da shimfidar shimfidar shimfidar shi shine cewa yana da matukar kunci dangane da zurfin sa, wanda shine dalilin da yasa yake ficewa a duk duniya. Matsakaicin zurfin Sinforosa ya kai mita 1 830 a mahangarta da ake kira Cumbres de Huérachi, kuma a ƙasansa akwai Kogin Verde, mafi mahimmin haraji na Kogin Fuerte.
Daga baya na sami damar shiga Sinforosa ta bangarorin bangarorin daban-daban. Ayan kyawawan hanyoyi don shiga wannan rafin shine ta hanyar Cumbres de Sinforosa, daga inda hanya take farawa wanda ke gangarowa, yana yin lanƙwasa masu yawa tsakanin wurin sanya katangun tsaye. A cikin tazarar da ta wuce kilomita 6, wanda aka rufe shi cikin kusan awanni 4, ka sauka daga itacen pine da na itacen oak na wani yanki mai ɗan bushewa da ƙasa mai zafi a ƙasan rafin. Hanyar tana tafiya tsakanin gorges masu zurfin gaske kuma tana wucewa kusa da jerin abubuwan da ba a sani ba na tudun ruwan Rosalinda, wanda mafi girman ambaliyar ruwa ta kasance 80 m kuma ɗayan kyawawan rijiyoyin ruwa a yankin.
Abin da ya fi ba ni mamaki a karon farko da na sauka a wannan hanyar shi ne na gano, a ƙarƙashin mafaka mai duwatsu, ƙaramin adobe da gidan dutse na dangin Tarahumara waɗanda, ban da zama a irin wannan wuri mai nisa, suna da kyakkyawar duban kwazazzabon . Matsanancin keɓewa wanda yawancin Tarahumara ke rayuwa a ciki na da ban mamaki.
A wani lokaci na sauka Baqueachi, kusa da Cumbres de Huérachi; ta nan ne ake gano wani gefen da ke gefen ciyayi mai yawan ciyayi inda pines ke cakuda da pitayas da itacen ɓaure na daji, da ciyayi da ƙaya. Yankin daji ne mai matukar ban sha'awa saboda rashin samun damar kiyaye wasu bishiyoyi kuma ya shafe sama da 40 m, wani abu da ba kasafai yake faruwa a tsaunukan ba. Daga cikin dukkanin wannan ciyawar tana da kyakkyawan rafi wanda ke da kyawawan wuraren waha, da hanzari da kuma kananan magudanan ruwa, wanda ba tare da wata shakka ba, jan hankalinsa shine Piedra Agujerada, tunda tashar rafin tana ratsawa ta wani rami a cikin wani babban dutse kuma tana dawowa nan da nan a ƙasa a cikin kyakkyawan kyakkyawan ambaliyar ruwa kusan 5 m na faɗuwa, a cikin ƙaramin rami da ke kewaye da ciyayi.
Wata hanyar mai ban sha'awa ita ce farawa a Cumbres de Huérachi, saboda tana gabatar da wasu ra'ayoyi masu ban sha'awa game da Sinforosa. Hakanan hanya ce da ke da mafi girman rashin daidaituwa na dukkanin tsaunin a cikin ɗan gajeren tazara: a cikin kilomita 9 ka sauka 1 830 m, mafi zurfin wannan kwarin. A wannan hanyar kuna tafiya na tsawon awanni 6 ko 7 har sai kun isa ga jama'ar Huérachi, a gefen Kogin Verde, inda akwai lambunan mangoro, gwanda da ayaba.
Akwai hanyoyi daban-daban inda zaku sauka zuwa kogin, duka a gefen Guarochi da kuma a gefen “La otra sierra” (kamar yadda mutanen Guachochi ke kiransa a gaban bangon kwarin); dukkansu kyawawa ne da birgewa.
A KASAN BARRANCA
Ba tare da wata shakka ba, babban abin burgewa shine tafiya rafin daga ƙasa, bin tafkin Verde River. Fewan kaɗan ne suka yi wannan tafiya, kuma ba tare da wata shakka ba tana ɗaya daga cikin kyawawan hanyoyi.
Tun karni na goma sha takwas, tare da shigowar mishaneri zuwa wannan yankin, an san wannan kwazazzabon da sunan Sinforosa. Tsohon rubutaccen tarihin da na samo game da yawon shakatawa na wannan bakin ruwa yana cikin littafin El México Desconocido na ɗan ƙasar Norway matafiyi Carl Lumholtz, wanda ya bincika shi shekaru 100 da suka gabata, mai yiwuwa ya sauka daga Cumbres de Sinforosa don barin Santa Ana ko San Miguel. Lumholtz ya ambace shi a matsayin San Carlos, kuma ya ɗauki makonni uku don yin wannan tafiya.
Bayan Lumholtz kawai na sami rikodin 'yan raguwar kwanan nan. A shekara ta 1985 Carlos Rangel ya sauko daga “sauran dutsen” yana farawa daga Baborigame ya tashi ta hanyar Cumbres de Huérachi; Carlos kawai ya ketare rafin. A shekarar 1986 wani Ba'amurke Richar Fisher da wasu mutane biyu suka yi kokarin tsallaka wani yanki mai tsayi na Sinforosa ta hanyar katako amma suka kasa; Abin takaici, a cikin labarinsa, Fisher bai nuna inda ya fara tafiya ba ko kuma inda ya fara ba.
Daga baya, a cikin 1995, mambobin Speungiyar Speleology Group daga Cuauhtémoc City, Chihuahua, suka yi tafiya na kwana uku a ƙasan kwarin, suna saukowa ta Cumbres de Sinforosa kuma suna barin San Rafael. Ban da waɗannan, na koyi aƙalla wasu ƙetare guda biyu waɗanda ƙungiyoyin ƙasashen waje suka yi a kan kogin, amma babu wani tarihin tafiyarsu.
A cikin makon 5 zuwa 11 ga Mayu, 1996, ni da Carlos Rangel, tare da rakiyar manyan jagorori biyu a yankin, Luis Holguín da Rayo Bustillos, sun yi tafiyar kilomita 70 a wani ɓangare mafi tsayi na Sinforosa, suna gangarowa ta Cumbres daga Barbechitos kuma barin ta cikin Cumbres de Huérachi.
Ranar farko da muka isa ga Verde River yana zuwa hanyar iska ta Barbechitos, wanda yake da nauyi ƙwarai. Mun sami babban tudu wanda lokaci-lokaci Tarahumara ke zaune. Muna yin wanka a cikin kogin kuma muna lura da wasu madatsun ruwa, waɗanda ake kira tapestes, waɗanda Tarahumara suke ginawa don kifi, saboda kifin kifi, mojarra da matalote sun yi yawa a wannan wurin. Mun kuma ga wani nau'in reed wanda suma suke amfani dashi don kamun kifi. Abin da ya ba ni mamaki shi ne cewa Lumholtz ya bayyana wannan hanyar kamun kifi kamar Tarahumara; Sannan na ji cewa muna shiga cikin duniyar da ba ta canza sosai a cikin shekaru ɗari da suka gabata.
Kwanaki masu zuwa munyi tafiya tsakanin ganuwar kankara, muna bin tafkin kogin, tsakanin sararin duwatsu masu girma dabam dabam. Mun haye kogin da ruwa har zuwa kirjinmu kuma dole muyi tsalle tsakanin duwatsu a lokuta da dama. Tafiya tayi nauyi sosai hade da tsananin zafin da tuni aka ji shi a wancan lokacin (matsakaicin rikodin shi ne 43ºC a inuwa). Koyaya, mun ji daɗin ɗayan ɗayan hanyoyi masu ban sha'awa a cikin tsaunin tsaunuka kuma wataƙila a Meziko, kewaye da manyan katangun duwatsu waɗanda matsakaita suka wuce kilomita ɗaya a tsayi, da kuma kyawawan tafkuna da wuraren da kogin da rafin suka ba mu.
WURARI MAFI KYAU
Ofayan su shine wurin da Kogin Guachochi ya haɗu da Kogin Verde. A kusa kusa akwai kangon tsohuwar gonar Sinforosa, wacce ta ba wannan rafin sunan ta, da kuma gadar dakatarwa ta yadda mutane za su iya wucewa zuwa wancan gefen lokacin da kogin ya hau.
Daga baya, a wani wuri da ake kira Epachuchi, mun haɗu da dangin Tarahumara waɗanda suka sauko daga "ɗayan tsaunin" don tara pitayas. Daya ya gaya mana cewa za mu tafi kwana biyu zuwa Huérachi; Koyaya, kamar yadda na gani cewa chabochis (kamar yadda Tarahumara ke gaya mana waɗanda ba mu ba) suna ciyarwa sau uku muddin suna tafiya ko'ina a cikin duwatsu, na yi lissafin cewa za mu yi aƙalla kwanaki shida zuwa Huérachi, kuma haka abin ya kasance . Waɗannan Tarahumara sun riga sun kasance a ƙasan rafin na tsawon makonni da yawa kuma abin da suke ɗorawa kawai shi ne jaka ta pinol, duk wani abin da suke buƙata ana samu daga yanayi: abinci, ɗaki, ruwa, da sauransu. Na ji baƙon tare da jakunkunanmu waɗanda nauyinsu ya kai kilo 22 kowanne.
'Yan Tarahumara sun yi imani da cewa dabi'a tana basu kadan saboda Allah kadan ne, tunda Iblis ya sace sauran. Amma duk da haka Allah ya yi tarayya da su; A saboda wannan dalili, lokacin da Tarahumara ya gayyace mu daga bakinsa, kafin ya sha abin sha na farko, ya yi tarayya da Allah, ya jefa 'yar pinole a kan kowane daga cikin mahimman bayanan, saboda Tata Dios shi ma yana jin yunwa kuma dole ne mu raba abin da ya ba mu. .
A cikin wani wuri da muke yin baftisma da sunan Babban Kusurwa, Kogin Verde ya juya digiri casa'in kuma ya samar da fage mai faɗi. A can, rafuffuka biyu na gefe suna kwararawa ta rafuka masu ban sha'awa; akwai kuma kyakkyawan bazara wanda muke shakatawa a cikinmu. Kusa da wannan rukunin yanar gizon mun ga wani kogo inda wasu Tarahumara ke zaune; Tana da babbar metate, kuma a waje akwai wani "coscomate" - wani dadadden rumbun da suke yi da dutse da laka- da ragowar wurin da suke yin tatemado mezcal, wanda suke shiryawa ta hanyar dafa zuciyar wasu jinsunan Agave kuma wanda abinci ne sosai mai arziki. Gaban Babbar kusadar mun wuce wani yanki na manyan tubalan duwatsu kuma mun sami hanya tsakanin ramuka, ƙananan ƙananan hanyoyin ne waɗanda suka sauƙaƙa mana tafiya, tunda a wasu lokuta sun kusan mita 100 kuma ruwan kogin da kansa yana gudana tsakanin su.
A kan hanya akwai wani dangin Tarahumara wanda ya dasa chili a bakin kogin kuma ya yi kifi. Suna kamun kifi ta hanyar sanya wa kifin guba da wani agave da suke kira amole, tushen shukar da ke fitar da wani abu a cikin ruwan da ke dafi a cikin kifin kuma don haka yana iya kama su cikin sauƙi. Akan wasu igiyoyi sun rataye kifaye da yawa tuni sun buɗe kuma ba hanji don ya bushe su.
Hadin ruwan San Rafael tare da kogin Verde yana da kyau ƙwarai; Akwai babban dutsen bishiyar dabino a wurin, mafi girma da na gani a Chihuahua, kuma rafin yana samar da ruwa mai tsawon m 3 kafin ya shiga Kogin Verde. Hakanan akwai wadatattun alder, poplar, masaka, guamúchiles da reeds; duk an kewaye su ta bangarorin biyu ta bangon kilomita daga tsaye.
Wurin da kogin ya samar da babban yanki wanda yake juyawa 180º, muna kiran sa La Herradura. Anan ramuka biyu masu matukar ban sha'awa sun hadu saboda ganuwar da suke a tsaye da kuma tsaye, kuma tare da fitillar faduwar rana, ana hangen wahayi wadanda suka zama mini abin birgewa. A La Herradura mun yada zango kusa da wani kyakkyawan tafki kuma da daddare ya zama dole in ga yadda jemagu suke yawo tare da ruwa, suna kama sauro da sauran kwari. Yanayin da muke nitsewa a ciki ya ba ni mamaki, duniya da ke kewaye da mu ta kewaye mu tsakanin manyan duwatsu da suka lalace na shekara dubu.
Babban mahimmin halin yanzu da ya gangaro ta wannan ɓangaren na "ɗaya tsaunin" shi ne kogin Loera, wanda ya gangaro daga Nabogame, wata al'umma kusa da Guadalupe da Calvo. Haɗin wannan tare da Green yana da ban mamaki, tun da manyan rafuka biyu sun haɗu kuma sun samar da manyan wuraren waha waɗanda dole ne a haye su ta iyo. Shafin yana da kyau kuma ya kasance share fage kafin isa ga jama'ar Huérachi. Wucewa Loera sai muka yada zango a gindin dutsen tsaunuka na Tarahuito, dutsen da ya tashi sama da metersan mitoci ɗari a tsakiyar kwarin. A can ne, jiran masu hawan dutse.
A ƙarshe mun isa Huérachi, ita kaɗai ce al'ummar da ta kasance a cikin gangaren tsaunin Sinforosa, tunda a yanzu ana watsi da ita kuma mutane huɗu ne ke zaune a wurin, uku daga cikinsu ma'aikata ne na Hukumar Wutar Lantarki ta Tarayya, waɗanda kullum suke yi. suna yin ma'auni a cikin kogin kuma suna zuwa tashar hasashen yanayi. Mutanen da suka rayu a wannan wurin sun yanke shawarar yin ƙaura zuwa Cumbres de Huérachi, kusan kilomita biyu daga ƙwarin, saboda yanayin zafi da keɓewa. Yanzu, kananan gidajensu suna kewaye da kyawawan lambuna inda gwanda, ayaba, lemu, lemo, mangoro da avocados suna da yawa.
Mun bar rafin ta hanyar da ke zuwa Cumbres de Huérachi, wanda shine mafi girman gangare a cikin tsaunukan tsaunuka duka, idan kuka hau mafi zurfin rafin, Sinforosa, wanda yake da digo kusan kusan kilomita 2, hawan Yana da nauyi, mun yi shi cikin kusan awanni 7 gami da hutu; duk da haka, shimfidar shimfidar wuraren da aka gani na rama duk wata gajiya.
Lokacin da na sake karanta littafin El México Desconocido na Lumholtz, musamman bangaren da ya yi bayanin hanyar Sinforosa shekaru 100 da suka gabata, sai ya birge ni cewa komai ya daidaita, rafin bai canza ba a duk waɗannan shekarun: har yanzu akwai Tarahumara tare da al'adunsu iri ɗaya. da rayuwa iri daya, a cikin duniyar da aka manta da ita. Kusan duk abin da Lumholtz ya bayyana na gani. Zai iya komawa yawon shakatawa a kwanakin nan kuma ba zai iya sanin lokacin da ya wuce ba.
