Wata hasumiya daga nesa tana ɗauke hankalinmu saboda ba ta fito daga coci ba. Muna zuwa Guanajuato akan babbar hanyar San Luis Potosí-Dolores Hidalgo, tare da titin San Felipe Torres Mochas, kuma da alama hasumiyar bata da wuri.
Ba zato ba tsammani, talla a gefen titi yana nuna kusancin gonar Jaral de Berrio; son sani ya bamu nasara kuma mun dauki turɓaya don ganin wannan hasumiyar. Bayan isowa, munyi mamakin wata baƙuwa, duniyar da ba ta da gaskiya: a gabanmu ya bayyana babban gini tare da dogon facade, sito, gidan gona, coci, ɗakin sujada da hasumiyoyi biyu waɗanda gine-ginensu ya bambanta da abin da muka saba gani a wannan nau'in gine-gine. Wannan shine yadda muka isa Jaral de Berrio, wanda ke cikin garin San Felipe, Guanajuato.
Kyakkyawan baya
A farkon farawa, waɗannan ƙasashen mazaunan Indiya ne na Guachichil ke zaune kuma lokacin da masu mulkin mallaka suka zo, sun mai da su filin kiwo da gona ga manoma. Tarihin farko na kwarin Jaral ya faro ne daga 1592, kuma zuwa 1613 mai shi na biyu, Martín Ruiz de Zavala, ya fara gini. Shekaru sun shude kuma masu mallakar suna cin nasara da juna ta hanyar siye ko gado. Daga cikin waɗannan, Dámaso de Saldívar (1688) ya yi fice, wanda kuma ya mallaki kadara inda manyan ofisoshin Babban Bankin Mexico na yanzu suke. Daga cikin wasu abubuwa, wannan mutumin ya taimaka da kuɗi zuwa balaguro masu ban mamaki amma masu haɗari waɗanda aka yi a wancan lokacin a arewacin New Spain.
Berrio na farko da ya fara isowa wannan hacienda shine Andrés de Berrio, wanda lokacin da ya auri Josefa Teresa de Saldivar a 1694 ya zama mai shi.
Jaral de Berrio hacienda ya kasance mai fa'ida sosai ta yadda mutanen da suka mallake shi suka zama wasu mawadata a lokacinsu, har ya kai ga an basu madafan iko na marquis. Wannan shine batun Miguel de Berrio, wanda a cikin 1749 ya zama mamallakin haciendas 99, Jaral shine mafi mahimmanci daga cikinsu kuma wani abu kamar babban birnin jihar "ƙaramar". Tare da shi aka fara sayar da kayayyakin amfanin gona daga hacienda a wasu garuruwa, gami da Meziko.
Shekaru sun ci gaba da wucewa kuma bonanza ya ci gaba da wannan wurin Juan Nepomuceno de Moncada y Berrio, Marquis na uku na Jaral de Berrio, shi ne mutum mafi arziki a Mexico a lokacinsa kuma ɗayan manyan masu mallakar ƙasa a duniya in ji Henry George Ward, Ministan Ingilishi a 1827. Ance wannan marquis din yana da yara 99 kuma kowanne daga cikinsu ya bashi dukiya.
Juan Nepomuceno ya yi yaki a yakin neman 'yanci, mataimakin Francisco Francisco Xavier Venegas ne ya ba shi mukamin zuwa kanar, ya kafa wata rundunar soja ta manoma daga hacienda da ake kira "Dragones de Moncada" kuma shi ne mamallaki na karshe da ya rada wa Berrio suna, tunda daga lokacin duk sun kasance Moncada.
Kowane ɗayan masu ginin yana ƙara gine-gine a cikin hacienda, kuma dole ne a faɗi cewa waɗannan sabanin gine-ginen sune suka sa ya zama mai ban sha'awa. A wasu lokuta, ma'aikata ne, tare da ajiyar su, suka yi iya kacinsu. Wannan shi ne lamarin daya daga cikin manyan makaman hacienda wanda, da kokarin kansa, ya fara gina cocin da aka sadaukar domin Uwargidanmu na Rahama a shekarar 1816. Daga baya, a matsayin abin da aka kara mata, Don Juan Nepomuceno ya gina masa dakin ibada. da danginsa.
Yawancin lokaci, hacienda ya ci gaba da haɓaka cikin wadata, shahara, da mahimmancin gaske, kuma wadatattun magueyales sun samar da masana'antun mezcal na La Soledad, Melchor, De Zavala, da Rancho de San Francisco, inda suke tare da fasahar kere kere. amma na lokacin, ganyayyakin sun zama ruwan inabin da ake yabawa.
Baya ga samarwa da sayarwa na mezcal, gonar Jaral tana da wasu ayyuka masu mahimmanci kamar ƙera gunduro, wanda aka yi amfani da ƙasashensu na nitrous da na gonar San Bartolo. Agustín Moncada, dan Juan Nepomuceno, ya kasance yana cewa: "mahaifina yana da ofisoshi biyu ko masana'antu a yankinsa don yin gishirin gishiri, sannan kuma yana da yalwar kasa, ruwa, itacen wuta, mutane da duk abin da ya dace da yin gunduron gunduwa."
Ganin mahimmancin gona na gonar, hanyar jirgin ta wuce rabin kilomita. Koyaya, daga baya an gajarta wannan layin don kiyaye tazara tsakanin Mexico da Nuevo Laredo.
Jaral hacienda yana da dukkanin kyawawan abubuwansa da marasa kyau. Wasu daga cikinsu sun ce Manuel Tolsá, marubucin mutum-mutumin dawakai don girmama Sarkin Spain Carlos IV wanda aka fi sani da "El Caballito", ya ɗauki samfurin doki daga wannan gonar da ake kira "El Tambor".
Shekaru daga baya, a lokacin yaƙin neman 'yanci, Francisco Javier Mina ya ɗauka da ƙarfi kuma ya kwashe dukiyar da aka binne a cikin ɗakin kusa da kicin. Ganimar ta kunshi buhunan gwal dubu dari da arba'in, sandunan azurfa, tsabar kudi daga shagon ray, shanu, aladu, raguna, dawakai, kaji, jaka da hatsi.
Shekaru da yawa bayan haka wani mutum mai suna Laureano Miranda ya fara inganta ɗaukaka garin Jaral zuwa rukunin gari, wanda ya kamata a kira shi Mina. Amma karar ba ta ba da 'ya'ya ba, tabbas saboda tasiri da karfin masu mallakar hacienda, kuma an ce Marquis da kansa ta ba da umarnin korar da kone gidajen duk wadanda suka gabatar da canjin sunan.
Tuni a cikin wannan karnin, yayin da bonanza ke ci gaba, Don Francisco Cayo de Moncada ya ba da umarnin gina mafi kyawun hacienda: gidan neoclassical ko gidan gida tare da ginshiƙanta na Koranti, da caryatids, da gaggafa ta gaggafa, da garkuwarta mai daraja, da hasumiyarta da balustrade a saman.
Amma tare da Juyin Juya Hali ya fara lalacewa saboda gobara da barin farko. Daga baya, a lokacin tawayen Cedillo na 1938, an yi ruwan bama-bamai daga babban gida daga iska, ba tare da haddasa asarar rai ba; kuma a ƙarshe daga 1940 zuwa 1950, hacienda ya faɗi ya ƙare da lalacewa, tare da Dona Margarita Raigosa y Moncada shine mai ita na ƙarshe.
WATA TARABA
A tsohuwar shari'ar hacienda akwai manyan gidaje guda uku da ke bin layin gaba na gidan: na farko shi ne gidan Don Francisco Cayo kuma ya fi kyau, wanda yake da agogo, wanda yake da hasumiyoyi biyu. Na biyu an gina shi ne da dutse da sassaƙaƙƙen dutse, ba tare da ado ba, tare da gazebo a hawa na biyu, sannan na ukun an tsara shi da tsarin zamani. Dukkansu suna kan hawa biyu kuma manyan kofofinsu da tagogin suna fuskantar gabas.
Duk da yanayi mara kyau a halin yanzu, a yawon shakatawa mun iya fahimtar dadaddiyar darajar wannan hacienda. Filin tsakar gida tare da mabubbuginsa ya daina zama mai launi kamar yadda yake a cikin mafi kyawun kwanakinsa; fikafikan nan uku da ke kewaye da farfajiyar suna dauke da dakuna da dama, duk an watsar, suna wari da guano, tare da katangar da aka rusa da kwari da tagoginsu tare da kofofin rufewa. An maimaita wannan yanayin a kowane ɗayan ɗakin hacienda.
Yankin yamma na wannan farfajiyar ta tsakiya yana da matakala mai hawa biyu inda har yanzu zaka ga wani bangare na bangon da ya kawata shi, wanda ya haura zuwa hawa na biyu inda aka rufe manyan ɗakunan da mosaics na Spain, inda aka taɓa yin manyan taruka da bukukuwa. rawa don rawar kidan mashahurin mawaƙa. Furtherarin kuma shine ɗakin cin abinci tare da ragowar kayan ado na Faransa da kayan ado, inda a lokuta da yawa aka yi amfani da kayan marmari masu yawa don bikin kasancewar mai mulki, jakada ko bishop.
Muna ci gaba da tafiya kuma mun wuce ta gidan wanka wanda shi da kansa yake lalacewa tare da launin toka da bakin ciki na duk abin da aka gani. Akwai, har yanzu a cikin kyakkyawan yanayi mai kyau, wani babban zanen mai da ake kira La Ninfa del Baño, wanda aka zana a 1891 na N. González, wanda saboda launinsa, sabo ne da rashin laifi yana sa mu manta a wasu lokuta yanzu inda muke. Koyaya, iskar da ke ratsawa ta hanyar ragargazawa kuma ta haifar da tagogin windows da suke ruɓewa sun kutsa cikin abubuwan da muke ji.
Bayan yawon shakatawa mun shiga ɗakuna da yawa, duk a cikin yanayi mai banƙyama: ɗakuna, farfajiyoyi, baranda, gonaki, kofofin da ba sa kaiwa, babu ganuwar ruɓaɓɓu, raƙuman rami, da busassun bishiyoyi; kuma ba zato ba tsammani mun sami launi kusa da ɗakin da aka dace da gidan wani: tankin gas, eriyar talabijin, masu walƙiya, ƙura da bishiyoyi, da kare da ba ya damuwa da kasancewarmu. Muna tsammanin manajan yana zaune a can, amma ba mu gan shi ba.
Bayan mun tsallaka kofa sai mu tsinci kanmu a bayan hacienda. A can ne muke ganin katangun buɗaɗɗu masu ƙarfi, kuma yayin da muke tafiya arewa za mu ƙetare wata ƙofar kuma mu isa masana'antar da har yanzu ke da wasu injinta da aka ƙera a Philadelphia. Mezcal ko bindigar bindiga? Ba mu da tabbaci kuma ba wanda zai iya gaya mana. Cellars masu fadi ne amma babu komai; iska da hayaniyar jemage suna fasa shirun.
Bayan mun yi doguwar tafiya sai muka wuce ta taga kuma, ba tare da sanin yadda za mu yi ba, sai muka fahimci cewa mun koma babban gidan ta cikin wani daki mai duhu wanda a wani kusurwar yana da matattakala mai kyau da kuma matattakala na katako. Mun hau matakala muka isa daki kusa da dakin cin abinci; sannan mu koma tsakar gida ta tsakiya, mu sauka kan matakala biyu sannan mu shirya mu tashi.
Awanni da yawa sun shude, amma ba mu gajiya. Don barin muna neman manajan, amma bai bayyana a ko'ina ba. Mun ɗaga sandar a ƙofar kuma mu dawo zuwa yanzu, kuma bayan hutawar da ta dace mu ziyarci coci, ɗakin sujada da rumbuna. Sabili da haka mun ƙare tafiyarmu na ɗan lokaci a cikin tarihi, muna shiga cikin labyrinths na gona da ya sha bamban da na sauran; watakila mafi girma a mulkin mallaka Mexico.
GABA MAI ALKAWARI
Yin magana da mutane a cikin alfarwa da kuma a coci mun koyi abubuwa da yawa game da Jaral de Berrio. A can mun koya cewa akwai kusan iyalai 300 waɗanda ke rayuwa a yanzu a cikin haɗuwa, na ƙarancin abinsu, dogon jiran sabis na likita da jirgin ƙasa wanda ya daina tafiya waɗannan ƙasashe shekaru da yawa da suka gabata. Amma abin da ya fi ban sha'awa shi ne cewa sun fada mana game da wani aiki da za a mayar da wannan gonar ta zama cibiyar yawon bude ido tare da duk wani zamani da ake bukata amma yana mutunta tsarin gine-ginenta. Za a sami dakunan taro, wuraren waha, gidajen cin abinci, yawon shakatawa na tarihi, hawan dawakai da ƙari mai yawa. Wannan aikin, ba tare da wata shakka ba, zai amfanar da mazauna cikin gida tare da sababbin damar aiki da ƙarin kuɗin shiga, kuma a bayyane yake yana kula da kamfanin waje wanda INAH ke kulawa.
Muna komawa motar kuma idan muka dawo kan hanya sai muka ga ƙaramin tashar jirgin ƙasa amma mai wakiltar, wanda tunatarwarmu ta dā tana tsaye. Muna kan hanyar zuwa sabon makiyaya, amma hoton wannan wuri mai kayatarwa zai kasance tare da mu na dogon lokaci.
A cocin akwai sayarwa littafi akan tarihin wannan hacienda mai suna Jaral de Berrio y su Marquesado, wanda P. Ibarra Grande ya rubuta, wanda yake da ban sha'awa sosai cikin abubuwan da yake ciki kuma ya taimaka mana zana wasu bayanan tarihi da suka bayyana a wannan labarin .
IDAN KA JE JARAL DE BERRIO
Daga San Luis Potosí, ɗauki babbar hanyar zuwa Querétaro, kuma 'yan kilomitoci da ke gaba ya juya dama zuwa Villa de Reyes, don isa Jaral del Berrio, wanda ke da nisan kilomita 20 daga nan.
Idan kun zo daga Guanajuato, ɗauki babbar hanya zuwa Dolores Hidalgo sannan zuwa San Felipe, daga inda hacienda ke da nisan kilomita 25.
Sabis ɗin otal, tarho, fetur, kanikanci, da sauransu. ya same su a San Felipe ko Villa de Reyes.
