Kusan shekaru 300 sun shude bayan mutuwarsa (a cikin 1695) don mu ji daɗin wannan littafin, zaɓin da fassarar waɗanda Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz suka yi, ɗaukakar gwanintar New Spain.
Godiya ga sha'awar masanin don Joaquin Cortina kuma ga likita Jorge Gurría Lacroix An sami nasarar ceto muhimman abubuwan shirye-shirye da kuma riƙe su zuwa Mexico, ɗayansu shine abin da ya shafe mu. Mun karɓe shi a kan aro don nazarin gefen ku Josefina Muriel kuma wanene wannan ya rubuta.
A dabi'ance muna matukar shaawar karatun sa, kuma duk da cewa karatun sa bai gabatar da wata matsala ba, munyi rubutun tarihi kuma mun samu nasarar buga shi cikin tsanaki, ta yadda aka tsara shi a tsari irin wanda aka gabatar dashi na asali. Wannan littafin yayi Yi haƙuri Juana "A kudinsa" kamar yadda 'yan litattafan za su ce.
Gabatarwar gabatarwa ta Dr. Muriel da kuma takaddar rubutun marubuta na an kara su a cikin rubutun, wanda ta hanyar sadaukar da kai ga malamai na Mona da Felipe Teixidor, masu hikima da kuma gourmets. Dr. Muriel ya gaya mana a cikin rubutunta:
"An bayyana kwarewar wata fitacciyar 'yar zuhudu da kanta a cikin Martanin ta ga Sister Filotea, tana cewa" To, me zan gaya muku, Uwargida, game da sirrin halitta da na gano yayin dafa abinci? Duba cewa kwai ya shiga ya soya a cikin man shanu ko mai kuma, akasin haka, ya rabe a cikin syrup din; a lura cewa don sukarin ya kasance mai ruwa ya isa a ƙara wani ɗan ƙaramin ɓangaren ruwa a cikin abin da yankin ko wasu 'ya'yan itace masu tsami suka kasance; duba cewa gwaiduwa da fari na kwai iri daya sun sabawa sosai, a cikin wadanda, wadanda ake amfani da su ga sikari, kowane daya yana hidimtawa kansa ba tare ba. "
Har ila yau, tana magana ne game da lura da dafuwa wanda ke jagorantar Sor Juana zuwa yin zuzzurfan tunani game da kimiyyar lissafi, amma a lokaci guda ya nuna mana yadda ta saba da girki.
Wato, shirya abinci iri-iri ba bako bane a gareshi, amma tunaninsa baya tare dasu. Mafi sauƙin ayyukan gastronomic ya ɗaukaka shi zuwa ga "la'akari na biyu" na abubuwa, wanda shine tunanin falsafa. Ita mace ce a lokacinta, saboda wannan dalili tare da bayyane da izgili tana cewa: "Amma, Uwargida, menene mata za su sani ban da falsafancin girki?"
Sor Juana ta ƙaddamar da littafin ga ɗayan 'yar uwarta, a cikin sonnet (tabbas ba ɗayan mafi kyau ba) wanda ya fara:
"Flattened, haba yar uwata son kaina." Na yi la'akari da kaina don samar da wannan rubutun na Littafin Cook kuma wane irin hauka ne! gama shi, sannan na ga yadda na kwafa sosai.
A cikin labarin tatsuniya ta, “Falsafar kayan girki”, Ina nazarin littafin girkin kamar haka:
Rufewar ta karye, ko yaya Sor Juana ta gadar mana da hangen nesa game da duniyarta mafi kyau, mallakar waccan Daular ta Sifen ce wacce ta hade Amurka da takobi da addu'oi.
Duniyar mestizo wacce ake bayar da kasancewar Turai ba kawai ta "zakaru na Fotigal" ba, har ma da "gigotes" (daga cincin Faransa "cinya"), wanda abincinsa na asali na duka nonon kwalliya ko ƙafafun naman maroƙi ya ƙare da kasancewa yankakken nama. a kananan guda. Duniyar mestizo wacce 'yan Hispaniyawa ke jigilar Roman "globulus" a cikin gudummawar dubu, "puñuelos" da aka yi tare da ruɓaɓɓen dunkulallen hannu, wanda aka lulluɓe da honeys don ɗanɗanar Mozarabic da kuma jin daɗin zamani, ya zama mai daɗin donuts. Duniyar da "puddings" na Burtaniya suka cire prosopopoeia a cikinsu, suka zama kayan alatu na alayyafo, pigweed ko quelites.
Kuma za a tuna da Turkawa, babban makiyin Kiristanci, saboda yawan amfani da goro, da goro, da zabib da acitron, waɗanda aka gauraya da masara, shinkafa, nama, da kuma yin kwatankwacinsu kamar yadda 'yan ƙasar ke zato cewa Turkawa za su iya yin kwalliyarsu. ; amma rashin sanin asalin "pilaf" wanda yake bugawa a cikin wainar shinkafa da kuma a cikin alfajores.
Duniya tana da daɗin kyau, duk girke-girke - ƙasa da goma - na kayan zaki ne, kuma daga cikinsu akwai jericaya ko jiricaya, sunan da ba a amfani da shi a cikin Dictionaries na Covarrubias da Hukumomi, don nemo shi a ƙarshe, bayyananne a cikin Abubuwan Mexico na Santa María kuma ana amfani da shi a cikin wannan yanki mai fadi har ya mamaye Costa Rica.
Ga al'adar alkama, burodi da shaye-shaye, tushen dukkan "ante" mai kyau, New Spain za ta ƙara dukkan nunin "kayan zaki waɗanda suka rataye a kan bishiyoyi" kamar Marchioness Calderón de la Barca Ya bayyana mameyes, mangoes, chicozapotes da Anonas Nuricata ko kawunan baƙi, soursop mai daɗi.
Duniyar da kasancewar indan asalin ƙaunatacciya ga Sor Juana ta haskaka ta kowane daki-daki, tare da cikakken bayani. Komawa ne ga muhallin yarintarsa, game da tserewarsa zuwa "ɗakin hayaƙin hayaki" na hacienda, don kallon nutsuwa wajen saka "nixcoma". Zuwa ga "uwa" girke-girke na 'yan asalin ƙasar: tawadar daga Oaxaca da baƙar naman. Manchamanteles yanzu shine mafi kyawun tsari daga New Spain.
Yaren al'adun gargajiya tare da kayan aikinsu, al'adunsu na yau da kullun da tsarin aiki na musamman, wanda a yau a cikin tsarin lokaci sune matakan da ba'a warware su ba.
A rufe, bari in kara hakan Yi haƙuri Juana Yana nuna a fili abin da na yi la’akari da shi a ka'ida ta game da gastronomy na Mexico nau'ikan nau'ikan gargajiya guda biyu: kayan zaki na New-Hispanic, "kafin" da "cartas", a cikin girke-girkensu na farko ya bayyana yadda ake amfani da cokali na azurfa - wato, ƙananan asirin da Sun sanya girki zane-zane, da stews, da zafin da ke da kuzari, daga tetlomole watakila don banbanta su da moles da ruwan sanyi.
Na shiga cikin Sor Juana cikin farin cikin raba labarin nata na "gastraoms", a cikakkiyar ma'anar cewa girki ya zama ƙaunatacciyar soyayya ta yau da kullun, kuma ina gayyatar masu karatu suyi hakan tare da girke-girke wanda aka haɗa a ƙasa:
Cheese fritters
6 sabo da cuku, laban gari, matsakaiciyar man shanu, narke da garin cuku. An daidaita su bayan an kwaba su da kyau tare da mirgina fil, a yanka su da kofi sannan a soya su.
Fata na ƙananan baƙar fata
Haƙiƙan kanan kai, madarar ruwa na madara, laban sukari, rabin ruwan lemo mai ɗanɗano, duka ana dafa shi har sai ya ƙoshi. Sun sanya yadudduka na tsotsa da wannan taliya. An yi masa ado kamar waɗannan duka a da.
Gwoza fata
Dafa shi beets tare da yanki na sukari, bawo da ƙasa. Zuwa laban beets id. ana jefa sikari a cikin ruwan syrup ɗin wanda bashi da kauri sosai kuma ana yin sa ta wannan hanyar.
Yarikoya
Boyayyen madara yayi zaki. Zuwa kofin madara, yolks 4, sai a motsa a zuba a cikin kofin, a tafasa a ruwa tare da hadaya a saman, sannan a san ko hakan ne, sanya ciyawa har sai ta fito da tsabta. Sa'an nan kuma ƙara kirfa.
Shinkafar shinkafa
Sanya shinkafar da madara, tunda tayi kyau, sai a ajiye a shimfida casserole da man shanu a zuba rabin shinkafar a cikin rowan sanyi mai sanyi, an riga an shirya mince dan cikawa da tumatir, mai dadi, zabibi, almond , pine nuts, acitrón and capers sai a hada da sauran rabin shinkafar sai a dora a kan burners guda biyu sai a watsa butter a saman shi da wasu fuka-fukai dan haka ya dahu, sai a cire.
Masarar Turkiyya cacaguazintle
Sanya masara kamar niscomil (sic), sannan a wanke, a gyarata sannan a nika shi kamar na tamala, ana shan man shanu, sukari da gwaiduwa da ake so, in dai basu da yawa; Yana da ɗanɗano tare da zabib, almond, acitrón, kwaya Pine, kaɗa, dafaffen kwai da ɗanɗano mai zaki. Groundasa ce kamar yadda ake cin ganyen azaba kuma ana saka shi a cikin kwanon ruɓaɓɓen man shanu. Bayan nikakken nama sannan kuma wani kwabin na kullu sai a saka masu wuta guda biyu, a shafa masa man shanu da wasu gashinsa don haka ya dahu, sai a kara sukari da shi a ajiye shi a gefe.
Clemole daga Oaxaca
Don matsakaiciyar casserole, dintsi na gasasshen cilantro, gasasshen tafarnuwa 4, albasa guda biyar, barkono shida, kamar su kirfa na cinnamon, ancho chili pepper ko pasillas, kamar yadda kuke so, komai ya fadi kasa sosai kuma ya soya Sannan naman alade, chorizo da naman kaji an kara.
Shinkafar shinkafa
An dafa shinkafa a kan adiko na goge baki, don haka ya dahu, ana sa safron ya ci. Za a yi mince da zabibi, dabbar filawa, almon, ɗanyen goro, dafaffen kwai, zaitun, chilitos. Ana shafawa casserole da man shanu sai a kara rabin shinkafar a ƙasa sannan a ɗanɗano shi sannan kuma rabin rabin shinkafar da sukarin ƙasa a saman a saka masu wuta biyu.
Bakin baki
A daidai bangarorin ruwa da ruwan tsami, za ku dafa naman, sannan ku nika tumatir, kirfa, albasa, barkono da soya tare da yanka albasa da faski, an sami sauƙin sosai, saboda haka caldillo ya yi, saffronsa, suve (sic) yin kamar capirotada zuwa kabido.
Alayyafo na alayyahu
Reales biyu de Ieche da kek biyu na mamón de reales da rabi da ƙwai goma sha biyu. Theara yolks, butter huɗu da fam biyu na sukari. Alayyahu yana nika kuma ana tace shi da madara duk wannan ana dafa shi tare ana dafa shi kuma da wuta sama da ƙasa, bayan an dafa shi an ajiye shi a sanyaya a faranti.
Gigote saiti
Sara da gigote kaza da kuma kayan marmari tare da dukkan kayan ƙamshinta, sannan sai a saka yankakken gurasar alawa a cikin kwanon rufi wanda aka shafa mai da man shanu don haka sai a ɗora wani yanki na faɗin yanka, a yayyafa shi da ruwan inabi, a sa wani madarar madara da kirfa da aka yafa masa a kai da cloves da barkono; sannan wani biredin burodi, sai ku ci gaba da yinsa har sai kun cika casserole din, wanda zaku gama shi da yanka, sannan za ku hada da dukkan romon da ya rage daga gigote, kuna hada da wani gwauron gwaiduwar kwai a sama.
Manchamanteles
Barkono mai barkono ya bazu kuma ya jika a cikin dare, ƙasa da toan busasshiyar tsaba da soyayyen duka a cikin man shanu, za ku ƙara ruwan da ake buƙata, kaza, yankakken ayaba, dankalin turawa, apple da gishirin da ya kamata.
Turawan Fotigal
Auki tumatir, faski, ruhun nana da tafarnuwa, a yanyanka su tare da isasshen ruwan tsami, mai da kowane irin kayan ƙanshi, ban da safron, sa'annan a saka zakaru tare da naman ham ɗinsu don su dahu sosai don haka suna dahuwa, ƙara daɗaɗɗun karaya, zaitun, kazar. da masu kamawa.
