CHIAPAS: DON MASU CIN ABINCI NA DUNIYA TARE DA KYAKKYAWAN CI

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Kasance tare da mu a yawon shakatawa mai ban sha'awa na garuruwa daban-daban na wannan mahaɗan don jin daɗin girke-girke da ba za a iya lissafa su ba, da cakuda da kayan gargajiya da al'adun pre-Hispanic da mestizo.

Ba mamaki wannan tafiya ta ƙare daga inda ta faro, domin ta haka ne yawanci ke faruwa. Ina nufin wannan hanyar dafuwa ta faro ne a daidai lokacin da ake cin wuta, lokacin da duk kungiyar Mexico da ba a sani ba Mun ci chipilín da cambray tamales, kamar kowane Disamba. Me yasa muke neman abu guda koyaushe? Tabbas shima ɗayan abincin da akafi so ne da yawa kamar mu, ba daga Chiapas bane. Abubuwan al'ajabi 10 na komai suna cikin yanayi, me zai hana ku bincika menene jita-jita 10 da mutanen Mexico suka fi so? Kuma yanzu anan muna… binciken yadda ake yin chipilín tamales da kuma ƙarin koyo game da sauran abubuwan al'ajabi na gastronomic na wannan ƙasa mai ban sha'awa.

Júbilo tuxtleño

An ce a ciki Tuxtla Babu wata iyali da ba ta da memba wanda ya kasance mawaƙa da kuma wani wanda bai san yadda ake yin tamala ba. Shin gaskiya ne? Mun isa tashar jirgin saman wannan babban birni a farkon ranar Asabar da rana kuma ya zama kamar kyakkyawan ra'ayi ne don tsaftace cikakkun hanyoyinmu a cikin mashaya. Guadalupana, waje ne mai kyau, tareda kidan kai tsaye. Munyi oda ga Parrilla Guadalupana wanda ya kunshi churrasco, flank steak, jerky, toreado chiles da wake. Gwanin ya kasance a 2 × 1, don haka mun ɗan ci kaɗan kuma mun wartsakar da kanmu kafin mu je wurin Filin shakatawa na Marimba.

Ba abin gafartawa ba ne zuwa Tuxtla kuma ba aƙalla aƙalla awanni biyu ko uku da jin daɗin kallon da wakilan mawaƙan marimbístico da kuma mutanen da ke taimaka wa maraice masu dadi suke wakilta. Masu yawon bude ido da mazauna gari suna jin daɗi da kuma jin ainihin yanayin bikin. Mun zaci hakan ne kawai saboda ranar Asabar ce, amma sun ce mana akwai kiɗa da rawa kwana bakwai a mako!

Mun tsallaka titi ne kawai don saduwa da Gidan Tarihi na Marimba. Abin da na fi so shi ne cewa yana iya yin ma'amala kuma kuna iya gwada wasu kayan kidan, duwatsu masu daraja na sonic. Abu mafi ban sha'awa shine ganin misalin yolotli ko ramin marimba, wanda aka ba da kwanan wata 1545 kuma aka samo shi a gonar Santa Lucía, a cikin gundumar Jiquipilas. Waɗannan sune maɓallan itace na 62 cm mai tsayi waɗanda aka ɗora 10 cm sama da rami a ƙasa, wanda ke aiki azaman maɗaukaki. A cikin gidan kayan tarihin mun kuma koya cewa Marimba sunan mace ne a Afirka, kuma yadda wannan kayan aikin ke da tushe a wannan nahiya, yana da ma'ana cewa an sa masa suna haka. A cikin 'yan awanni kaɗan, mun fahimci cewa marimba na ci gaba da ba da tabbaci da haɗin kai ga mutanen Chiapas kuma sun sami damar cusa mana farin cikinsu, yayin da muka dawo cikin jam'iyyar da ke kusa da kiosk har cikin dare.

Masu masaukinmu sun dauke mu zuwa ɗayan gidajen cin abinci na gargajiya a cikin birni kuma wataƙila jihar, Pichanchas. Gaskiya abu ne na musamman saboda hakan ya tattara farin ciki, launi, barkwanci da kyakkyawan abincin mutanen Chiapas. Ellsararrawa suna rataye daga rufin da dole ne ku ringi don murnar fitowar pumbo, abin sha da aka yi da abarba, ruwan ma'adinai, vodka, syrup na ɗabi'a da kuma kankara mai yawa da ake amfani da ita a cikin bule ko tecomate, daga can zaku fara samun daidaito. Gabriel, mai hidimar mu, ya bayyana mana menu kuma ya ba da shawarar ɗayan waɗancan abincin inda ofan abu kaɗan ke zuwa don gwadawa: tuxtlecas, turulas, salpicón, fresh cheese, jerky, kyafaffen naman alade daga San Cristóbal, tsiran alade, cochito da hotuna. Duk da yake an gabatar da dukkan wadannan kayan marmarin, an gabatar da ballet din tatsuniya a tsakiyar gidan cin abincin, wanda yake kamar baranda ne na tsofaffin kuma kyawawan gidajen kudu maso gabas. Ya kasance kyakkyawa maraice.

Asirin Vicenta

Matafiya “Pro” basa barin abin da ya fara burgesu kuma mun san yadda zamu kiyaye kanmu don lokuta na musamman. Kuna iya mamakin abin da nake nufi ... saboda da mun iya "shiga" chipilín tamales daga Tuxtla, amma nooooo, wawaye ("ƙira" da aka samo a cikin aikin yau da kullun na zuwa nan da can), Muna so mu je gidan ƙwararren masani don mu koyi yadda ake yin su, kodayake chipilin (Crotalaria longirostrata) yana da ɗan wahalar samu a wajen Chiapas, tunda yana da ƙawon ganye mai ganye tare da matsakaitan-ganye masu launin koren koren launi da ɗanɗano mai daɗi wanda kawai ke girma a cikin yanki.

Yayin da muka koma zuwa Comitán de Domínguez kuma sun sanar da mu cewa ana amfani da wannan ganyen ne don abinci da yawa kamar su miyan chipilín tare da bolita ko miyar wake da chipilín (wanda shi ma yana da naman sa ko naman alade), ina tuna wata magana daga ɗaya daga cikin masu haɗin gwiwarmu, Jaime Bali, “Kallon Comitán de las Flores ba tare da sanin tarihinsa ba yana wakiltar haɗarin da duk matafiyin da zai girmama kansa bai kamata ya ɗauka ba. Wajibi ne a san cewa wannan kyakkyawan birni an kafa shi a karni na 16 ta hanyar Pedro Portocarrero, kuma zai iya zama da kyau, har zuwa yau, babban birnin jihar. Kodayake tarihi da tsawon lokaci sun kwace wannan damar daga Comitán, gaskiyar magana ita ce ta tara wasu kyaututtukan saboda wasu abubuwan da suka faru wadanda suka shafi abin da Alejo Carpentier ya kira da gaske na kwarai ”.

A haka muka isa ƙofar matar Vicenta Espinosa, Wanda ya gayyace mu cikin murmushi mu shigo ciki sai muka tafi kai tsaye zuwa kicin, tunda ya rigaya ya gama shirya duk abubuwan da zasu koya mana yadda ake cinn chipilín tamales. Ta gaya mana cewa wannan girke-girke ya wuce daga tsara zuwa tsara kuma ta yi ƙoƙari ta ba ta ta taɓawa, wanda ya sa ta shahara a cikin Comitan duka, saboda umarnin yau da kullun ba su daɗewa da zuwa. Ayan mahimman bayanai waɗanda Vicenta ke sarrafawa, ya bambanta da girke girken da muka baku a fitowar ta 371, shine ita da kanta take tafasa masarar da lemun tsami ta ɗauka ta niƙa, tare da cewa tana shirya kullu a gida. Bayan haka mun halarci kusan dukkanin ayyukan kuma munyi mata tare da ita. Ya riga ya shirya mana, kawai daga cikin tukunyar kuma ya gayyace mu zuwa wannan abincin da aka yi amfani da shi mai daɗin ƙanshi mai ƙanshi wanda ya yi da dafaffun tumatir da daɗaɗɗen, cilantro da barkono habanero (barkono 1 na kowane tumatir 10, idan ba kwa son shi ya yi yaji sosai) . A teburinsa mun ji daɗin kasancewa da dandano na tamales kuma sun yi imani da ni, sun narke a cikin bakinku! Abin dandano ya kasance mai laushi, daidaitattun abubuwan sinadarai, santsi mai laushi, mai ban mamaki.

San Cristóbal, yankuna, da ɗanɗano

Abin farin ciki da cimma babbar manufarmu, mun koma San Cristóbal de las Casas. A koyaushe na yi imani da cewa zuwa dare zuwa inda ake so yana da sihiri na musamman, yana da dabara, an rufe shi kuma an yi maraba da shi. Yana ba da ɗanɗano mai ban sha'awa ga tafiya.

Bayan mun ɗan yi tafiya na ɗan lokaci kuma muna jin daɗin yanayin kwatankwacin wannan Garin Mai Sihiri, sai muka shiga wani wuri da muke so, mashaya Juyin juya hali. Ana iya la'akari da shi azaman abin mahimmanci. Gaskiya. Yana kan Babban Walker (yana da matukar kyau kuma yana kusa da duk aikin), yanayin yana da kyau, abinci yana da kyau kuma yana da farashi mai kyau, kuma mafi kyawun abu shine ana gabatar da ƙungiyoyi biyu kowace rana (daga Litinin zuwa Lahadi, jazz, salsa, reggae, blues , na komai). Suna ciyar da aƙalla awanni uku suna mai daɗi sosai kuma har ma kuna iya rawa. Otal din dadi Tsohon gida masaukinmu ne mai wucewa, mun faɗi a gajiye.

Kashegari, rana ta bayyana abin da ke gaban nyan Mulkin Mallaka shi ne kwarin Jovel, tare da waɗancan tsaunuka da wannan hazo na farko wanda ya ba ta wani yanayi na musamman kuma wanda ke tunatar da masu mulkin mallaka na arewacin Spain sosai. Tun daga wannan lokacin, wannan garin ya ci gaba da tsare ƙayyadaddun unguwanninsa: Guadalupe, Mexicanos, El Cerrillo, San Antonio, Cuxtitali, San Diego da San Ramón. Wani gadon mulkin mallaka shine ƙananan murabba'insa tare da majami'un makwabta. Duk kyawawa kuma sun cancanci yabo. San Cristóbal shine ɗayan placesan wuraren da nake ba da shawarar yin tafiya inci zuwa inch kuma kowane lokaci a ɗan wani lokaci yana tsayawa don cin kwalin masarar, biredin apple, ice cream ko guntun burodi, don haka na musamman a wannan yankin. Wani kyakkyawan shawarwarin cin abinci shine gidan abinci Gidajen San Cristóbal, a kan hanyar da ke zuwa San Juan Chamula, wurinsa yana ɗaya daga cikin fa'idodi, tunda yana da kyakkyawar ƙasa mai kyau tare da ra'ayoyi masu kyau kuma yana kan hanyar zuwa ƙauyukan Tzotzil da Tzeltal. Can mun gwada wasu fannoni na Creole kamar su miyan burodi, gasa cochito, harshen almond da pepita tare da jerky.

Chiapa de Corzo: wani abinci mai ƙarfi

Mun shafe wasu kwanaki a "San Cris", amma Grijalva yana kiranmu da ƙarfi, don haka muka ɗauki hanyarmu zuwa Chiapa de Corzo. Can wajibine na tilas shine yawon shakatawa na Sumidero Canyon National Park. Jiragen ruwan sun tashi daga bakin dutsen tsawon yini.

A cikin wannan kyakkyawan birni mai ɗumi da zafin jiki da Renaissance, Mudejar da Baroque suna iska, akwai kuma wurare masu kyau waɗanda zaku ji daɗin abincin yanki. Misali shine Hasumiyar kararrawa, inda suka yi mana kyau kwarai kuma mun gwada miyar taushe da dafaffen kwai, ayaba da zabibi, naman saniya a cikin kayan hanta da kayan ƙamshi, da jarkoki tare da chilmol, duk tare da sabo na Rayón. Bayan haka, daga baya kuma bayan yawo cikin gari da hawa zuwa kango na cocin farko na San Sebastián, waliyin gari, mun haɗu Kwan fitila, mashaya mataki daya daga jetty. Mun same shi aljanna!

Hoursarin awoyi zuwa ZooMat

A hanyar dawowa Tuxtla a zahiri muna "shiga" dakunan otal don dawo da kuzari kuma yanzu, gobe, don shiga ajiyar fiye da hekta 100, El Zapotal, gida ga ɗaruruwan dabbobi waɗanda ke rayuwa a cikin yanayi kama da mazauninsu na asali. Muna ba da shawarar ka tafi yawon shakatawa cikin natsuwa ka more wannan gidan ajiyar namun daji, wanda mujallar Animal Kingdom ta tsara a matsayin "mafi kyau a Latin Amurka".

Ina cikin kauna da duk abin da ke tsiro a Chiapas, tare da koren da ke cika idanunku lokaci guda, tare da farin ruwa da koguna da ke ba da mamaki da alamun da ba na gaskiya ba; na kogunanta da kowane shuke-shuke da ke wadatar da bankunan; Ina son rurin saraguato kuma ina son sautin daji ya kula da gadona don tattara mafi kyawun tunani kafin rufe idanuna. Amma yanzu an kuma cinye ni ta hanyar dandano da ƙamshin girki, wanda ba komai bane face ɗayan kyawawan halayen mutanen Chiapas, wani kuma da suke bayarwa cike.

5 Mahimman abubuwa a cikin Chiapas

-Dance a cikin Marimba Park, a Tuxtla.
-Ka ɗauki gilashin sanyi na tascalate.
-Ziyarci makabarta da kango na tsohuwar cocin na Saint Sebastian a cikin San Juan Chamula, ban da cocinsa na yanzu, sananne a duk duniya.
-Tuntuɓi "maɓallin turawa" akan Gidan Tarihi na Magungunan gargajiya na Maya a cikin San Cristóbal.
-Sayi kyau yadi a San Lorenzo Zinacantán.

Da ABC na Chiapas abinci:

-Chirmol: roman tumatir dafaffe, asa shi hade da barkono, albasa da coriander.
-Cochito: naman alade a cikin marinade.
-Sausaji: suna mai da hankali ne a cikin manyan biranen, kamar San Cristóbal da Comitán, musamman ma chorizos, tsiran alade, hams hamsin da longanizas.
-Pepita tare da tsokana: babban abincin a bukukuwa na musamman ko a bikin baje koli na Janairu a Chiapa de Corzo. Ana yin sa ne daga pumpanyen kina withan ƙasa tare da kayan ƙamshi tare da jerky (busasshen naman sa a tsiri da gishiri).
-Picte: masara mai dandano mai dadi tamale.
-Posh: narkarda suga
-Pux-xaxé: stew tare da wasu vece na viscera, wanda aka kawata shi da tawadar tumatir, barkono barkono da kullu masara.
-Gurasar burodi: yadudduka burodi da kayan marmari, anyi wanka da shi a cikin romo mai dandano da kayan kamshi wanda yake nuna saffron.
-Tascalate: garin gasasshiyar masara, annatto, kirfa, suga wanda aka shirya shi da ruwa ko madara.
-Turula: busasshen jatan lande da tumatir.
-Tuxtleca: naman sa dafaffe da lemo.
-Tzispolá: naman alade tare da nama, kaji, kabeji da barkono iri-iri.
-Zats: ɗan kwari ne na malam buɗe ido wanda aka sani a cikin tsaunukan Chiapas. Ana tafasa shi da ruwa da gishiri. Lambatu da soya tare da man alade. Ana cinsu tare da tortilla, lemon da kore chili.