A wasu lokuta da yawa mutanen Mexico suna zuwa don neman abubuwan warkarwa na maɓuɓɓugan ruwan zafi.
San José Manialtepec, Oaxaca, gari ne wanda ba ya bayyana a taswirar yawon bude ido, amma duk da haka a cikin watan Oktoba 1997 hotunan wannan wurin sun zagaye duniya, tunda yana ɗaya daga cikin wuraren da guguwar Paulina ta yi barna mafi girma.
Gaskiya yana da gamsarwa ga waɗanda muke lura da su ta hanyar kafofin watsa labarai wahalar da kusan mazauna 1,300 na wurin suka sha, don samun kanmu a yau tare da gari mai zaman lafiya, amma cike da rayuwa, inda mummunan tunanin yake ɓacewa cikin lokaci.
Kodayake San José Manialtepec yana cikin wani yanki sanannen yawon bude ido, kilomita 15 daga Puerto Escondido, ya nufi layukan Manialtepec da Chacahua, abubuwan jan hankali guda biyu waɗanda ke da matukar farin jini ga masu yawon bude ido - musamman ma baƙi waɗanda ke da sha'awar kallon tsuntsaye. wurin ziyara ne, ko ma wani mataki ne na tilas ga waɗanda suka je wuraren da aka ambata a baya.
Anyi sha'awar ziyartar wurin lokacin da, yayin da yake a Puerto Escondido, sharhin wucewar Hurricane Paulina ta cikin yankin ya tashi, kuma muna tuna ambaliyar Kogin Manialtepec akan garin San José; Amma sha'awar ta karu lokacin da muka sami labarin cewa mazaunanta sun shawo kan rikicin ta hanya mai kyau.
A kallo na farko yana da wuya mu gaskata cewa shekaru biyu da suka gabata yawancin gidajen da muke gani yanzu sun kusan nitse cikin ruwa, kuma har ma, a cewar mazauna yankin, sama da gidaje 50 ne suka yi asara gaba ɗaya.
Abin da ya faru, a cewar jagoranmu, Demetrio González, wanda ya shiga cikin memba na kwamitin kiwon lafiya, shayar da lemun tsami da aiwatar da wasu ayyuka don hana annobar cutar, shi ne Kogin Manialtepec, wanda ke gangarowa daga tsaunuka ya wuce kawai A gefe ɗaya na San José, bai isa a watsa duk ruwan ba, ta hanyar gangare daban-daban, ya haɓaka gudummawar har sai ya ninka, kuma bankin da ya raba kogin da garin ya yi ƙasa ƙwarai, ruwan ya cika ya lalata wani gidaje da yawa. Koda lokacinda kusan ruwa ya rufe su, mafi ƙarfi ya tsayayya, amma har ma wasu daga cikin waɗannan suna nuna manyan ramuka wanda ruwan yake neman hanyar fita.
Demetrio ya ci gaba: “Ya kasance kimanin awanni biyu na firgita, kamar ƙarfe tara na dare a ranar 8 ga Oktoba, 1997. Ranar Laraba ce. Wata baiwar Allah, wacce dole ta rayu ta duka daga rufin karamin gidanta, wanda ke tsoron kowane lokaci kogin zai dauke ta, ta kasance cikin mummunan hali. Da wuya ya zama kamar yanzu yana samun sauki. "
Wannan shi ne bangare mara dadi wanda yakamata mu raba akan wannan tafiya, ambaton kusancin mutuwa. Amma a wani gefen, dole ne a fahimci juriya da jama'ar gari da kuma kaunar kasarsu. Yau har yanzu akwai wasu alamun alamun wannan abin sha mai ɗaci. Har yanzu muna samun wasu manyan injuna a waje wadanda suka tayar da kwamiti mafi girma, wanda a bayansu kawai ake ganin rufin gidajen daga kogin; kuma a can, a saman tsauni, za ku iya ganin rukunin gidaje 103 da aka gina don sake tsugunnar da waɗanda abin ya shafa, aikin da aka gudanar tare da goyon bayan ƙungiyoyin agaji da yawa.
San José Manialtepec yanzu yana bin yadda yake na yau da kullun, cikin nutsuwa, tare da ɗan motsawa a titunan ta masu kyau, tunda mazaunanta suna aiki da rana a filayen da ke kusa inda ake shuka masara, gwanda, hibiscus, sesame da gyada. Wasu suna ƙaura kowace rana zuwa Puerto Escondido, inda suke aiki a matsayin 'yan kasuwa ko masu ba da sabis na yawon buɗe ido.
Bayan da muka raba su tare da Manialtepequens abubuwan da suka samu, na ban tsoro da sake ginawa, sai muka tashi don aiwatar da aikinmu na biyu: yin tafiya bakin rafi, yanzu kwanciyar hankali ya bamu dama, har sai mun isa Atotonilco.
A lokacin dawakai suna shirye su dauke mu zuwa makomarmu ta gaba. Don amsa tambaya, Demetrio ya amsa cewa yawancin mutanen da suka ziyarce su baƙi ne masu yawon buɗe ido waɗanda suke son sanin kyawawan abubuwanda suke da kyau, kuma da ƙyar 'yan Mexico suke zuwa don neman abubuwan warkarwa na maɓuɓɓugan ruwan zafi. "Akwai wadanda har suke daukar kwantenansu da ruwa su dauka a matsayin magani, tunda an ba su shawarar cutuka daban-daban."
Mun riga mun hau kan dawakanmu, da zaran mun bar garin mun sauke allon da ke kare shi kuma tuni mun tsallaka kogin. Yayin da muke wucewa sai mu ga yara suna shakatawa da mata suna wanka; kaɗan kaɗan, wasu shanu suna shan ruwa. Demetrio ya gaya mana yadda kogin ya faɗaɗa - ninki biyu, daga kimanin mita 40 zuwa 80 - kuma ya nuna wani parota, wanda babban itace da ƙarfi daga yankin bakin teku wanda, kamar yadda ya gaya mana, tare da tushensa masu ƙarfi suka taimaka. don juya ruwan kadan, yana hana ɓarnar yin muni. Anan zamuyi farkon farkon gicciye shida - ko matakai, kamar yadda suke kiran shi - don tafiya daga ɗayan gefen kogin zuwa wancan.
A ci gaba da hanyarmu, kuma yayin wucewa ta wasu shinge da ke kewaye da wasu kaddarorin, Demetrio ya bayyana mana cewa masu su galibi suna shuka iri biyu na bishiyoyi masu ƙarfi sosai a gefen ƙasashensu don ƙarfafa shinge: waɗanda suka sani da "Brazil" da "Cacahuanano".
Daidai lokacin da muke bi ta ɗayan ɗayan waɗannan inuwar hanyoyin munyi nasarar ganin jikin katuwar igiya, ba tare da kararrawa ba kuma ba tare da kai ba, wanda jagoranmu yayi amfani da damar yin tsokaci cewa a cikin kewayen akwai kuma murjani da kuma dabba mai kamanceceniya da jijiyar, wanda an san su da "hannaye arba'in" kuma yana da guba musamman, ta yadda idan ba a samu saɓon sa ba da sauri zai iya haifar da mutuwa.
Ari a kan kogin kamar yana yin kwarkwasa tare da manyan duwatsu, yana wucewa ta gabansu; kuma a can, a sama sosai, mun gano babban dutse wanda siffarsa ta ba da sunansa zuwa ƙwanƙolin da ke gabanmu: "Pico de Águila" ana kiransa. Muna ci gaba da hawa cikin farin ciki da girma da kyau, kuma idan muka wuce karkashin wasu manyan bishiyoyin macahuite dole ne mu ga tsakanin rassansu wani gida na tururuwa, wanda aka gina daga itacen itacen dawa. Dama can mun koyi cewa daga baya wadannan kore za su mamaye wasu koren aku kamar wadanda suka ketara da mu kan hanya a lokuta da dama.
Kusan mu isa inda muke, bayan mun tsallake matakai biyu na ƙarshe na kogin, dukkansu suna tare da tsaftataccen ruwa, wasu duwatsu wasu kuma da ƙasan rairayi, wani yanayi ne na daban. Duk cikin yawon shakatawa hankalinmu ya cika da kore da girma, amma a wannan wurin, a cikin wani yanki mai yawan ciyayi, babban itace da aka sani da "strawberry" yana zaune a cikin zuciyarsa, daidai inda aka haifi rassansa, "dabino" na corozo ”. Don haka, kusan tsayin mita shida, ana haifuwa da wata bishiyar daban daga akwati, wanda ya tsawaita nasa akwatin da rassa sama da mita biyar ko shida mafi girma, yana haɗuwa da rassan bishiyar da ke masa matsuguni.
Kusan akasin wannan abin mamakin yanayi, a hayin kogin, akwai ruwan zafi na Atotonilco.
Akwai a cikin wannan wurin tsakanin gidaje shida da takwas da aka watse a ɓoye, ɓoye a cikin ciyayi, kuma a can, a gefen tsauni, wani hoto na Budurwar Guadalupe ya fito daga ciyawar, an killace shi a cikin alkuki.
Ta gefe daya, 'yan mituna kaɗan, za ka ga yadda ƙaramin maɓuɓɓuga ke malalawa tsakanin duwatsun da ke sanya ruwanta a cikin wani tafki, inda ruwan kuma yake gudana, kuma an gina shi ne don baƙi da suke so su kuma jure zafin yanayin ruwa, nutsar da ƙafafunku, hannayenku ko ma, kamar yadda wasu suke yi, duka jikinku. A namu bangaren, bayan mun yi sanyi a cikin kogin, mun yanke shawarar hutawa ta nutsar da ƙafa da hannaye, da kaɗan kaɗan, a cikin ruwan da ke cikin zazzabi mai ƙarfi wanda ke ba da ƙanshin ƙanshin sulfur.
Ba da daɗewa ba bayan haka, mun kasance a shirye don sake bin sawunmu, muna sake jin daɗin yin tunani game da waɗannan kyawawan abubuwan na ɗabi'a, duwatsu da filayen da ke cike da shuke-shuke da ɗanɗano da kogin ya ba mu a kowane lokaci.
Jimillar lokacin da muka dauka don kammala wannan yawon shakatawa ya kai kimanin awanni shida, don haka a lokacin da muka dawo Puerto Escondido har yanzu muna da lokacin da za mu ziyarci layin Manialtepec.
Tare da babban gamsuwa mun sami cewa wurin yana kiyaye kyansa da hidimomin sa. A gefen tekun akwai wasu palapas inda zaku iya cin abinci da kyau kuma masu kwale-kwalen suna ba da kwale-kwalensu na yawo iri-iri, kamar wanda muka yi, kuma a ciki ne muka sami damar tabbatar da cewa har yanzu mangwaro mazaunin jinsuna ne da yawa, kamar su kifaye, baƙi mikiya. da mata masu kamun kifi, nau'ikan marassa kyau - fari, launin toka da shuɗi -, cormorants, Ducks na Kanada; storks da ke gida a kan tsibiran, da yawa, da yawa.
Ko da, bisa ga abin da suka gaya mana, a cikin layin Chacahua, wanda ke da tazarar kilomita 50 daga yamma, guguwar ta amfane su, tun da ta buɗe hanya tsakanin lagoon da tekun, ta cire dutsen da ya daɗe yana tarawa har ya rufe, wanda Hakanan yana ba da damar tsabtace lago na dindindin kuma yana sauƙaƙa jigilar kayayyaki da sadarwa ga masunta. Yanzu an gina mashaya don hana sake samar da dusar kankarar kamar yadda ya yiwu.
Wannan shine ƙarshen kyakkyawan rana inda muka raba, ta hanyar kalma, wahalar da godiya ga ƙarfi take sharewa kowace rana, kuma ta hanyar gani da azanci, girman da ke nan, kamar yadda yake a sauran wurare da yawa, yana ci gaba da ba mu Mexico da ba a sani ba.
IDAN KA JE SAN JOSÉ MANIALTEPEC
Bar Puerto Escondido akan babbar hanya babu. 200 zuwa Acapulco, kuma nisan kilomita 15 ne kawai ya bi alamar zuwa San José Manialtepec, a hannun dama, tare da hanyar datti cikin kyakkyawan yanayi. Kilomita biyu daga baya zaka isa inda kake.
