A cikin Chicontepec da Álamo Temapache, yawan mutanen Huasteca Veracruzana, ana kiyaye tsofaffin al'adun gargajiya kuma ana kiyaye tsafi na musamman na sihiri.
Tufafin mata ya rasa asalinsa, amma yana kiyaye mahimman abubuwa na ainihi.
Tufafin mata a Mesoamerica ya kasance babu kamarsa a duniya, kwatankwacin darajarta ga Girkanci, Roman ko Misira, kodayake mai yiwuwa ya fi kyau, tunda yanayin manyan al'adun pre-Columbian suna da kyau a polychromy kuma suna da nuances da yawa, wanda ya rinjayi tufafin mazaunanta. Mutanen da suka ci nasara a Sifen su ne shaidun farko na ƙasashen waje ga wannan zanen launuka masu launuka iri daban-daban, wanda aka nuna a cikin tsarin adon maza da mata na Mesoamerican. A duk cikin daular Aztec, mata suna alfahari da kyawawan huipiles tare da wuyan murabba'i da zane, madaidaiciya madaidaiciya, doguwa kuma sakakkiya, tare da dogayen mayafai ko siket da ke lulluɓe a jiki kuma an saka su da abin ɗamara. A nasu bangaren, matan yankin na Totonacapan sun saka quechquémel, tufa mai kama da lu'u-lu'u tare da buɗawa a kai wanda ya rufe kirji, baya da kuma wani ɓangare na 'yan asalin ƙasar ta Sincuete ko siket. An yi amfani da waɗannan tufafi tare da wasu canje-canje ta duk yankuna na pre-Columbian Mexico, kuma an yi su a kan logon bayan baya da kyawawan auduga masu yatsu; waɗanda aka yi amfani da su a cikin shagalin bikin sun fito fili don launuka da abin ɗinka, kuma sun rina yadudduka da dyes na yanayi da aka samo daga kwari, shuke-shuke da bawo.
Daga iyakar arewa zuwa iyakar kudanci ta ƙasarmu, matan asali suna da fifiko ga launuka masu ƙarfi cikin sutura da kayan adonsu. Abun wuya, 'yan kunne, mundaye, kayan shigar hakora, qyalle da stamens wanda suke qawata babban salon su dasu, alamu ne na dumbin arzikin da ke jikin tufafin su, wanda ya samo asali ne tun zamanin da can tsakanin Nahuas, Totonacs, Mayans, Huastecs, don wasu suna. na kabilun da ke zaune a waɗannan ƙasashe.
Kamar dai yadda ake gane mace mai suna Tarahumara, Mayan ko Nahua daga Cuetzalan ta hanyar adon ta, yana yiwuwa a iya gano wata mace 'yar Nahua wacce ta fito daga Chicontepec; Kodayake tufafinsu suna nuna tasirin Mutanen Espanya sosai, babban halayensu shine alamar syncretism, al'adu wanda ya nuna yadda Turawa ke sanya sutura, hade da manyan launuka a cikin adonsu, amfani da abun wuya da layu da yawa, 'yan kunne da aka yi da zinariya da azurfa, zaren da launuka masu launuka iri iri waɗanda ke adana al'adun gargajiya, tufafi da yare.
Kusan duk matan da shekarunsu suka haura 50 suna saka kyawawan kaya waɗanda za su gane su kuma su sa su alfahari, amma maiyuwa ba za su wuce shekaru 40 ba. Canje-canje sun riga sun faru a cikin shekaru 25 zuwa 30 na ƙarshe; A cikin littafin Kayan 'yan asalin kasar Mexico, na Teresa Castelló da Carlota Mapelli, wanda Cibiyar Nazarin Anthropology da Tarihi ta Kasa (1965) ta buga, an ambaci amfani da suturar da ba a sake gani a garin na Chicontepec.
Yammacin Turai wanda ake kira ikoto ana yin sa ne da bargo, auduga ko poplin, yana da gajerun hannayen riga da karamin zanen siliki, wanda ya sha zaren zaren a shuɗi ko ja a kusa da shi, an yi shi iri biyu: wanda yake da ratsi biyu (ɗaya a gaba , a tsayi na tsattsauran, da kuma wani daga baya), duka a cikin dinken giciye da ake kira itenkoayo tlapoali, suna da ƙananan zane-zane na geometric ko na fure masu launuka masu haske, yatsu uku masu faɗi akan yanki na sama mai allura mai suna kechtlamitl; Wannan yanki an haɗe shi zuwa ƙananan ɓangaren daga gaba ta hanyar amfani da ƙananan ninki ko xolochtik, an gama su cikin wavy da faɗi mai faɗi; ɗayan rigar ana yin ta ne da zinare murabba'i mai sasanni a ɓangaren sama, wanda aka kawata shi da zanen gicciye mai suna ixketla tlapoali, duka a hannayen riga, na gaba da na baya, wanda ke wakiltar adadi na dabbobi, furanni ko na farin launuka da yawa kuma wannan yana haɗuwa da ƙananan ɓangare kamar yadda ya gabata; duka nau'ikan rigan suna zube a gaban siket kuma bayanta a kwance yake.
Dangane da dandano da ikon siye na kowace mace, siket din ya kai ga duwawun kuma yana da kugu a hanun sa tare da zare wanda ke ba shi damar zama hade da kugu; a tsakiyar bangaren yana da kayan adon yadin da zaren cm 5 na launuka daban-daban da ake kira ikuetlatso; 4 ko 5 tucks ko tlapopostektli an sanya su a gefen, tare da tsiri na zane ɗaya amma tare da folds da ake kira itenola, wanda ya karya ci gaba da shi; An saka mayafin kugu ko iixpantsaja a kan siket, wanda ya kai ƙasan gwiwa kuma an yi shi da zane na polyester na Scotland, wanda mata ke yaba shi sosai.
Yawancin waɗanda suke yin wannan tufafin, suna ɗora samansu da ƙugiya ko kuma allurar ƙira kuma suna ɗinke siket ɗinsu ko kuma a yi musu dinkakken inji. An manta da tsohuwar madaurin baya, kuma banda wasu lokuta da ba safai ake amfani da ita ba ga mata sama da shekaru 70, waɗanda ke yin ƙyallen auduga, waɗanda ake yabawa sosai a matsayin kyauta a bikin bikin gargajiya. Abubuwan da suke wanzuwa har yanzu suna nan a haɗe a ƙarshen ƙarshen ƙofar gidan ɗayan kuma a ƙugun mutumin da ke aiki, ta hanyar kuitlapamitl, a matsayin mecapal. Masu saƙa da kansu wani lokacin suna yin daji kuma suna aiwatar da zaren auduga, suna yin nasu dunƙule ko malacatl, wanda ya ƙunshi sassa biyu: sanda na kimanin 30 cm da yumbu mai laushi wanda aka saka a ciki. tare da zagaye zagaye ƙasa, azaman ma'aunin ma'auni. Ana sanya cikakkiyar sandar a cikin ƙaramin akwati ko chaualkaxitl. Loom an yi shi ne da sako-sako da itace, wanda yake da ayyuka daban-daban.
A rana mai kyau a cikin garin Chicontepec, aikin mata na yau da kullun yana farawa ne da fitowar hasken rana na farko, lokacin da aka ji sautin narkar da masarar a cikin metate. Sauran matan suna daukar ruwa daga rijiyoyin kuma suna amfani da damar suyi wanka da wanki, yayin da wasu kuma suke aiwatar da irin wannan aikin a yankin maɓuɓɓugan. Suna komawa bukkokinsu suna tafiya babu takalmi, kamar yadda ake amfani da shi tun zamanin Hispanic, ɗauke da ƙaramin yaro cike da tufafi ko bokiti da ruwa a kawunansu, wanda suke kula da shi daidai gwargwado duk da tudu, ba tare da bari wasu su zubar.
A yankin ana yin shagulgulan gargajiya da yawa, daga ciki akwai: tlamana ko miƙa masara mai taushi, da abin da ake kira tlakakauase, ana yi lokacin da matasa biyu suka yanke shawarar yin aure. Sannan ango ya kawo kyaututtuka da yawa ga iyayen yarinyar. A yayin wadannan ziyarar, matar tana sanya kyawawan tufafinta kuma tana yin kwalliya da gashinta da dan madaidaicin zaren zaren launuka daban-daban, wadanda suka kai kimanin inci takwas daga saman gashin; an rufe wuya tare da abin wuya da yawa da aka yi da gilashin gilashi mara haske, ko na wasu abubuwa masu launuka masu haske, lambobin yabo, tsabar kudi; Tana sanya 'yan kunne na zinare ko azurfa a cikin siffar rabin wata, wanda aka sassaka a garin "Cerro". Duk wannan ƙawancen yana tuna girman zamanin da, wanda har yanzu yana raye a cikin 'yan asalin asalin Mexico, wanda koyaushe yake yaba launuka masu ƙyalƙyali, kayan adonsu, kayan adonsu da baje kolin tufafinsa.
IDAN KA JE CHICONTEPEC
Theauki hanya ba. 130, wanda ya ratsa ta Tulancingo, Huauchinango, Xicotepec de Juárez da Poza Rica. A cikin garin Tihuatlán, ɗauki hanyar da ta ratsa kujerar birni da ake kira molamo Temapache, kuma kusan kilomita 3 za ku sami karkata zuwa Ixhuatlán de Madero da Chicontepec, inda kuka isa bayan sun wuce garuruwan Lomas de Vinazco, Llano de A tsakiyar, Colatlán da Benito Juárez. Suna da tsayin kusan kilomita 380 kuma duk ana samun su.
Source: Mexico da ba a sani ba A'a. 300 / Fabrairu 2002
