Ya kasance watan Agusta, a rabi na biyu na bazara. A wannan lokaci na shekara, wasan kwaikwayon da zan yi nuni zuwa ƙasa yana gudana kowace rana da misalin ƙarfe 7:00 na dare.
Duk yana farawa ne da taushin haske. Zafin ya ragu. Masu kallo suna kallon sama suna shirin more wani ɗayan mafi kyawun faɗuwar rana da za a iya gani a doron duniya: lokacin da take saukowa daga sararin sama, sannu a hankali rana tana nitsar da girgijen gizagizai da ke shimfidawa a sararin samaniya tare da inuwar daga kodadde ruwan hoda zuwa zurfin purple; daga rawaya mai laushi zuwa kusan jan lemu. Mu fiye da awa ɗaya, waɗanda muke cikin ra'ayi na otal ɗin sun kori kyamarorinmu don ɗaukar wannan abin al'ajabi gida da daraja shi.
Otal din da aka ambata shine, a halin yanzu, shine kaɗai a San Felipe, wani ɗan ƙaramin tashar kamun kifi da ke cikin mashigar ruwa zuwa arewacin yankin Yucatan.
Masunta ita ce tushen tattalin arziƙin mazaunan ta 2,100. Shekaru talatin kenan ana aiwatar da wannan aikin kuma masunta suna girmama lokutan rufewa kuma basa kamawa a wuraren kiwo da kuma wuraren da dabbobi dabbobi ke fakewa.
Duk da tsananin amfani, teku tana da karimci; da zarar lokacin lobster ya fara, misali, dorinar ruwa ya shiga. A gefe guda, ana yin kamun kifi a duk tsawon shekara. Ton ɗin waɗannan kayayyakin ana adana su a ɗakunan sanyi na haɗin gwiwar don canjawa wuri zuwa cibiyoyin rarrabawa. Af, kamun kifin dorinar ruwa yana da ban sha'awa: a kowane jirgi ana sanya mashi gora biyu da ake kira jimbas, waɗanda ake ɗaura kadoji na Moorish a matsayin koto. Jirgin ruwan yana jan su a gabar tekun kuma lokacin da dorinar ruwa ya gano crustacean, sai ya fito daga maboyarsa don cin abinci. Yana birgima a kan abin da take ganinta kuma a wannan lokacin sai ya girgiza jimba mai hankali, sannan masunci ya daga layin ya 'yanta kaguwa daga wanda ya kama ta sanya shi a cikin kwandonsa. Sau da yawa ana amfani da kaguwa mai rai don kama dorinar ruwa shida.
Mutanen San Felipe suna da dumi da abokantaka, kamar kowane mutum a cikin teku. Suna gina gidajensu da katako, chacté, sapote, jabín, da sauransu, waɗanda aka zana launuka masu haske. Kimanin shekaru 20 da suka gabata, an yi gidaje da itacen al'ul da na mahogany, waɗanda aka ƙawata su da varnish wanda ke nuna kyakkyawan hatsi. Abun takaici, kadan daga cikin abubuwanda aka gina kenan, tunda guguwar Gilberto wacce ta afkawa San Felipe a ranar 14 ga Satumbar, 1988, a zahiri ta mamaye tashar jirgin. Arfin hali da azamar mazaunanta ya sa San Felipe ya sake haifuwa.
A halin yanzu, rayuwa a San Felipe tana gudana lami lafiya. Matasan sun taru don shan dusar ƙanƙara a kan jirgi bayan taron lahadi, yayin da tsofaffi ke zaune suna hira da kallon fewan yawon buɗe ido da suka ziyarci wurin. Wannan kwanciyar hankali, duk da haka, ya zama abin farin ciki lokacin da bukukuwan tsarkaka masu girmama San Felipe de Jesús da Santo Domingo suka zo, daga 1 ga Fabrairu zuwa 5, da kuma daga 1 zuwa 8 ga Agusta bi da bi.
Ana fara taron tare da "alborada" ko "vaquería", wanda ke rawa tare da ƙungiya a cikin fadar birni; Matan suna halarta tare da kayan su na mestizo, wanda aka saka ado sosai, kuma maza suna tare dasu sanye da farin wando da “guayabana”. A wannan karon, an yiwa matashiyar sarauta, wacce za ta kasance sarauniyar jam’iyyar har tsawon kwanaki takwas.
'Yan kwanaki masu zuwa an shirya "guilds", bayan taron da aka yi don girmama waliyin, kuma tare da tawaga suna fita cikin jerin gwano a titunan garin, daga coci zuwa gidan ɗayan mahalarta inda aka gina rumfa rufin takardar zinc. Sannan ya tafi, ya ci ya sha giya. Kungiyoyin kwadagon sun shiga cikin wannan tsari: wayewar gari, samari da ‘yan mata, mata da maza, masunta kuma, a karshe, masu kiwon dabbobi.
Da rana akwai fadace-fadace da “charlotada” (clowns Fighting heifers), duk suna motsa rai ta ƙungiyar birni. A ƙarshen rana, mutane suna taruwa a cikin alfarwa tare da sauti da haske inda suke rawa da sha. A daren rufewa rawa yana motsa jiki ta hanyar haɗuwa.
Saboda yana cikin wata mashigar ruwa da tsibirin mangrove suka keɓance, San Felipe bashi da rairayin bakin teku mai kyau; duk da haka, hanyar fita zuwa Tekun Caribbean tana da sauri da sauƙi. A tashar jirgin akwai kwale-kwale masu baƙi, waɗanda a ƙasa da mintuna biyar suka tsallaka mita 1,800 da ke buɗe kan tekun turquoise, da fararen yashi da kyawawan ƙawayenta. Lokaci yayi da za'a more rana da ruwa. Jirgin ruwan ya kawo mu kusa da mafi girma daga jerin tsibirai, wanda yashi fari da laushi, mai kyau kamar talc. 'Yan gajeriyar tafiya a gefen gabar teku suna kai mu zuwa gaɓar tekun masu tsada a cikin tsaunuka tsakanin tsibiri da tsibiri, rabin ciyayi ya ɓoye. A can ne muka ci karo da wani kyakkyawan nuni na rayuwar namun daji: snipe, seagulls, heron da heron suna fantsama a cikin dutsen don neman kaguwa ko "cacerolitas", ƙananan kifi da mollusks. Ba zato ba tsammani, abin mamaki ya tashi a gaban idanunmu masu kayatarwa: garken flamingos sun tashi sama, suna ta motsawa a hankali suna rawar jiki a cikin fuka-fukan fuka-fukan ruwan hoda, da lanƙwasa baki da dogayen ƙafafu a kan ruwan. Waɗannan tsuntsayen masu ban mamaki suna da mazauninsu a nan, kuma a cikin ƙasan silty da ke kewaye da tsibirin da suke ciyarwa da kuma haifuwa, suna fantsama da kalar ruwan hoda mai kyau da turquoise na ruwa, wanda aka tsara shi da koren koren dajin ƙarƙashin gandun daji na mangrove.
Ziyartar San Felipe kyauta ce ga idanu, kasancewarta cike da iska mai tsabta, nutsuwa da ruwa mai haske; ku ji daɗin ɗanɗanar lobster, katantanwa, dorinar ruwa ... Ku bari kanku ya kasance cikin tsananin rana kuma ku ji daɗin jama'arta. Duk wanda ya dawo gida ya sabunta bayan ya kasance a irin wannan wurin, yana hulɗa da wannan duniyar budurwa kusan ... Shin babu mutane da yawa da suke fatan za su iya zama har abada?
Source: Ba a san Mexico ba No. 294 / Agusta 2001
