Don zuwa Tecolutla, ɗauki babbar hanya ba. 129 dole ne kayi tafiya kimanin kilomita 500, ka ratsa jihohin Hidalgo da Puebla, kafin ka isa Poza Rica inda zaka bi hanyar zuwa Papantla ko kuma ka nufi arewa, idan ka fi son zuwa Tuxpan.
Wannan lokacin mun bar Mexico City da asuba saboda muna son zuwa bakin teku lokacin cin abincin rana.
Ana jin daɗin shimfidar wuri mai ban mamaki, cike da conifers, yayin tafiya, shawarar yau da kullun saboda hazo sananne ne a ɓangaren tsakanin Acaxochitlán da Huauchinango, inda akwai kuma rumfunan tsugune masu siyar da giya da kayan marmari na yanki. Af, a tsayin Necaxa dam, ta garin San Miguel, wasu masaukai da gidajen abinci sun cancanci tsayawa don miƙa ƙafafunku kuma ku more kyawawan abubuwan gani.
Amma, kamar yadda makomarmu ta zama wani, sai mu ci gaba ta kan hanyar, muna nitsewa cikin hazo kuma tuni mun sauko, bayan wucewar Xicotepec, ana lura da manyan gonakin ayaba. Ba a dauki lokaci ba kafin mu sami masu sayar da irin wadannan soyayyen, soyayyen ko kuma giyar mai gishiri a saman, wanda ke biyan bukatarmu ta yau da kullun tare da dandano na musamman.
Shiga Papantla, yana da nisan kilomita 43 yamma da Tecolutla, wanda kuma Totonacs suka kafa shi a wajajen ƙarni na 12, wata alama tana nuna cewa kilomita biyar ne kawai wurin da ake binciken kayan tarihi na El Tajín, kuma kodayake ba a haɗa shi cikin shirye-shiryenmu ba Jarabawa ce matuka, don haka muka canza hanya don ganin wannan birni na gabannin Hispanic an gano shi kwatsam a shekara ta 1785 lokacin da wani jami'in Sifen ke neman gonakin taba sigari.
DON GIRMAMA ALLAH MAI IKON
Bayan isowa, a cikin babban dandalin samun dama ga shafin, kewaye da harakokin kasuwanci cike da kayan kwalliya da kayan gargajiya daga yankin, nunin Voladores de Papantla ya fara, ɗayan mafi ban mamaki tsakanin al'adun Mesoamerican, wanda alamominsa na duniya ke da alaƙa tare da bautar rana da yawan haihuwa na duniya. Wadanda suka ga wannan bikin a karo na farko suna mamakin jajircewa irin ta masu rawa lokacin da suka hau saman wata babbar doguwa kuma aka daure su da igiya a kugu sun sauko cikin da'irori 13, suna kwaikwayon gaggafa a tashi, har sai sun taba kasa da kafafunsu.
Bayan mun ji daɗin wannan ƙwarewar, kuma don daidaita kanmu game da shimfidar wurin, sai muka shiga Gidan Tarihi inda samfurin fasali ke matsayin jagorar farko. Sun yi bayanin cewa gine-ginen wannan birni na bakin teku, wanda ke da asalin Totonac, ya kasance yana da alaƙa da haɗuwa da abubuwa guda uku, gangare, ƙyallen masarufi da masarufi masu gudana, ban da matakalar hawa. Hakanan, suna nuna mahimmancin Wasan Kwallan, wasan motsa jiki, tunda an gano filaye 17 a wurin.
Mun rasa lokacin lokacin da muke tafiya a tsakanin gine-gine masu ban sha'awa da ke shimfiɗe a wani yanki na kilomita 1.5, wanda a da galibi ke zaune a haikalin, bagadai ko fāda, kuma ba shakka, asalin Pyramid na Niches yana burge mu, tare da kofofi 365 babu tantama abin dogaro ne ga shekarar hasken rana da masarrafansa masu yawa, don haka ya bambanta da sauran abubuwan tarihi na gabanin Hispanic. Yawon shakatawa namu ya ƙare ne kawai lokacin da suka yi gargaɗi game da rufe wurin na gaba, wanda aka yi wa rashin farin ƙanshi, wanda ake sayar da sandunansa ga masu yawon buɗe ido.
ZUWA GARI
Ya kusan kusan duhu lokacin da muka shiga Gutiérrez Zamora, a layi daya tare da rafin Kogin Tecolutla, zuwa garin yawon shakatawa na wannan sunan. A Hotel Playa “Juan el Pescador” mai shi, Juan Ramón Vargas, shugaban ofungiyar Otal-otal da Motel, yana jiran mu daga tsakar rana, mai kaunar amintaccen wurin asalinsa da kuma kyakkyawan jagora don bincika abubuwan jan hankali na yankin, ƙari bayan rairayin bakin teku ko gidajen cin abinci mara adadi tare da abinci mai daɗi bisa 'ya'yan itacen teku.
Daidai, babu abin da ya fi dacewa don kwantar da hankalin waɗannan sa'o'in fiye da faranta wa palate rai tare da ɗanɗano hadaddiyar hadaddiyar giyar da kifin fillet tare da miya mai tafarnuwa, tare da kayan lambu, bayan sun sauka a cikin ɗakinmu da ke kallon teku. Daga baya, za mu yi yawo cikin ƙauyukan da ke cikin gari wanda ke da kusan mazauna 8,500, a cikin babban lokaci kusan sau uku na adadin yawon buɗe ido, yawancin ƙasa da ƙasa ɗaya, da kuma daga wasu yankuna makwabta, kamar Hidalgo, Puebla ko Tamaulipas.
A kowace shekara, ban da haka, suna kiran manyan gasa biyu na manyan kamun kifi a kasar, na Sábalo da na Róbalo, wanda ya hada da yawancin mazaunan Tecolutla da Gutiérrez Zamora, tunda masunta da kwale-kwalensu ke tafiya ga masu gasa kuma suyi aiki a matsayin mafi kyawun jagororin, yayin da aka cika ɗakunanta 1,500, an rarraba su a cikin wasu otal-otal 125, yawancinsu masu gida, da fiye da gidajen cin abinci ɗari, waɗanda ke cikin yankin bakin teku kawai. Hakanan, suna gaya mana game da wani taron na shekara-shekara mai matukar mahimmanci ga wannan yawan, Bikin Kwakwa, inda aka shirya kwakwa mafi girma a duniya, tunda kawai a shekarar da ta gabata sun sarrafa kwakwa dubu shida da sukari tan dubu biyu, tare da sauran sinadarai. Ba tare da wata shakka ba, kowane biki yana ba da kyawawan alamu don komawa wannan ƙauyen masunta.
ALJANNAR AL'AMARI
Ofaya daga cikin kyawawan lamuran Tecolutla sune rairayin bakin teku masu damar shiga jama'a, tunda akwai kusan kilomita 15 na bakin teku da ke fuskantar teku, galibi da raƙuman ruwa mai laushi da dumi, banda lokacin afkawar arewa. Amma, babban abin mamakin ga matafiyin shine rashi na Kogin Tecolutla, wanda, ko da wayewar gari, muna shirin tafiya cikin jirgin ruwan mai masaukinmu "Pataritos". Af, kyakkyawan sunan kwalekwalen ya samo asali ne saboda zaɓin mafi girman hisa hisan sa maza, waɗanda suka sa masa wannan sunan a lokacin da ya fara magana.
Akwai uku daga cikin mafi yawan wuraren da aka ziyarta, El Silencio, mai nisan kilomita biyar, mai ni'ima a cikin mangroves kuma kyakkyawa ba zai yiwu a faɗi ta kalmomi ba. Ba a banza sunan waccan baya ba, domin idan aka kashe injin har ma ana iya jin karar kwari ko digo da ke sauka a hankali daga saman dazuzzuka. Bugu da ari, za mu je Estero de la Cruz, don tsaftataccen fili mai nisan kilomita 25, inda ake yawan yin snook, yayin da mashigar Naranjo, mafi girma, mai kusan kilomita 40, ya ratsa wuraren kiwon shanu da bishiyoyin lemu. Yankin bucolic ne, ya dace da kallon tsuntsaye, zamu ga ibis, cormorants, parrots, parakeets, redfish, mikiya, shaho, heron ko agwagwa na nau'ikan halittu daban-daban. A hakikanin gaskiya, yin yawo a cikin makarantun yana karfafa cikakken hulda da dabi'a, wanda zai iya kwantar da hankali a cikin safiya guda duk nauyin damuwa da aka kawo daga babban birni.
A kan hanyar dawowa, Juan Ramón ya dauke mu zuwa inda Fernando Manzano, wanda aka fi saninsa da 'yan kasarsa da "Papa Tortuga", wanda, a shugaban kungiyar kula da lafiyar halittu Vida Milenaria, ya yi shekaru yana gwagwarmaya mai tsauri a cikin kiyaye tsuntsayen teku, wanda yake taimaka wa don hayayyafa da sakin kowace shekara tsakanin dubu biyar zuwa shida da aka kyankyashe daga ƙwaiyoyin gida saboda gogewar da suka samu, tare da tallafin masu sa kai da danginsu, kan doguwar tafiya tare da rairayin bakin teku masu kewaye. Kuma kafin mu tashi zuwa Costa Smeralda, mun ziyarci masana'antar sarrafa vanilla a Gutiérrez Zamora, na dangin Gaya ne tun daga 1873, inda suke bayyana duk matakan da ake buƙata don samo ruwan 'ya'yan itace ko giyar wannan' ya'yan itacen mai ɗanɗano.
HANYA ZUWA PUERTO JAROCHO
A kan babbar hanyar zuwa garin Veracruz, wanda ake kira Costa Esmeralda ya faɗaɗa, wata babbar hanya tare da ƙananan otal-otal, bungalows, filayen zango da gidajen abinci. Mun tsaya a takaice a Iztirinchá, ɗayan rairayin bakin teku masu ƙwarin gwiwa, gab da Barra de Palmas, inda zai yuwu ayi aikin kamun kifi da hutawa cikin kwanciyar hankali. Daga nan hanyar ta bi ta bakin teku, zuwa Santa Ana, inda muke samun wasu masaukai da masu ciyarwa cikin sauki, kodayake a Palma Sola da Cardel ne inda muka sake samun wuraren zama iri-iri. A can muke loda mai kuma babbar hanyar da ke kan hanyar zuwa tashar jiragen ruwa ta fara, kodayake waɗanda suke so su kwana a bakin rairayin bakin teku suna iya juyawa zuwa Boca Andrea ko Chachalacas, ɗayan shahararrun shahararrun dunes.
KARFIN KARFE ...
Da zaran mun shiga gari, za mu je gidan gahawa na gargajiyar La Parroquia don cin kofi mai daɗi, mai ƙarfi ƙwarai, a farfajiyarta da ke kallon babban titin jirgin. Muna cikin mafi mahimmancin zuciyar jihar Veracruz, ɗaya daga cikin mawadata a cikin ƙasar, cike da masana'antun mai, yadi da giya, injinan sikari, filayen noma da kiwo, mai fa'ida sosai a zamanin mulkin mallaka lokacin da Fan Ruwa na ƙungiyar Sabuwar Spain ta bar tashar jirgin ruwanta a sikelin zuwa gabar Havana, tare da jiragen ruwa da aka loda da zinariya, azurfa da kowane nau'in kayan masarauta na veasar Sifen.
Alexander de Humbolft ya bayyana wannan birni a cikin Labarin Siyasarsa game da Masarautar Sabon Sifen da cewa "kyakkyawa ce kuma a koyaushe ana gina ta." Kuma a wancan lokacin ana ɗaukarsa a matsayin "babbar ƙofar Mexico", ta inda duk arzikin waɗannan manyan ƙasashe suka bi ta Turai, tunda ita ce tashar jirgin ruwa guda ɗaya tak a cikin Tekun Fasha da ke ba da damar sauƙaƙa zuwa cikin ta. An adana wannan gallantry na zamani a cibiyarta mai tarihi, inda bayanan ɗan jarocho suke haɗuwa da yamma tare da na danzón mai riƙon, a cikin ƙofofin da ke cike da ƙauyuka da masu yawon buɗe ido, waɗanda dare ba shi da iyaka. A wayewar gari, muna jin daɗin kyan gani mai kyau a gaban otal ɗin a Boca del Río, kuma kafin mu ci gaba da hanyarmu ta kudu, mun ziyarci Aquarium, babu shakka ɗayan mafi kyau a duniya, tare da yawancin nau'ikan ruwa. Shafi ne mai mahimmanci ga kowane matafiyi mai son yanayi.
ZAMAN ALVARADO
Mun dauki hanyar zuwa kudu. Muna duban Laguna Mandinga, wanda har yanzu gidajen cin abinci na gefen kogin suna rufe kuma muna ci gaba zuwa Antón Lizardo, wanda ke kiyaye halin ƙauyen ƙauyen ƙwarai.
Kusan kilomita 80 daga nesa, Alvarado yana jiran mu, ɗayan mafi kyawun wurare a cikin yankin, tare da kyakkyawan suna na gastronomic, saboda a can yana yiwuwa a ci kowane irin nau'in abincin teku da nau'ikan kifaye iri-iri a farashi na ban dariya na gaske, tare da ƙyalli mai inganci .
Kafin ziyartar wannan wurin, na san shi daga baitocin mawaƙi Salvador Vives, wanda ya bayyana shi a matsayin “smallaramar tashar jirgin ruwa, ƙauyen kamun kifi wanda ke da ƙanshin abincin teku, taba da zufa. Farin gidan gona wanda ke gefen teku kuma yana kallon kogin ”. Tabbas, kamar dai lokacin ya daskarewa a cikin lokaci, cibiyarta mai tarihi tana da kwanciyar hankali na yau da kullun ga masu aiki a yau. Gidaje masu kyan gani masu faɗi tare da farfajiyoyi masu inuwa sun kewaye babban filin, inda haikalin Ikklesiya da fadar birni mai cike da talauci suka yi fice. Ya isa taka kadan zuwa bakin iyaka zuwa tashar jirgin ruwa, cike da kwale-kwalen kamun kifi, wasu sun riga sun yi tsatsa wasu kuma koyaushe a shirye suke su fita zuwa teku, tunda kamun kifi shine babbar hanyar samun kudinsu, tunda har yanzu yawon bude ido bai gano wannan wuri kamar yadda ya cancanta ba. . Kogin Alvarado da kogin Papaloapan sun haɗu don ba mu shimfidar wuri mai ban mamaki.
Tabbas, kafin mu ci gaba da tafiyar mun dauki kanmu zuwa wata shinkafa mai dadi zuwa tumbada, wani nau'in Alvaradeña na paella na gargajiya, amma romo, wanda aka shirya shi da abincin kifi da kifi, da kuma wasu kyawawan kaguwa. 'Yan abinci ƙalilan irin wannan, cikin inganci da yawa.
GANO RUWAYOYI
Daga nan hanya ta shimfida tsakanin gadaje masu tsayi da manyan motoci masu ɗauke da ciyawa mai daɗi koyaushe suna ƙetarewa don sarrafawa a cikin injinan, wanda hayakinsu ke fitar da zaren mara ƙaran hayaki mai ruwan kasa, alama ce ta rashin aiki a masana'antar sukarin su. A can nesa zaku iya ganin yankin tsaunuka na Los Tuxtlas, amma tunda muna son sanin iya gwargwadon iyawa game da rairayin bakin teku na kusa, bayan wucewa ta Lerdo de Tejada da Cabada sai mu juya hagu tare da wata siririyar hanyar, wacce bayan fiye da awa ɗaya a kan hanyar da za ta kai mu Montepío.
Amma, kadan kafin mu gano wata karamar alama: "mita 50, Toro Prieto." Son sani shine yake bamu nasara kuma muka shiga datti sai muka tafi bakin ruwa inda anan ne kawai zamu sami sansanin muhallin muhalli, Kogin Pirate, da kuma wasu wuraren dafa abinci marasa tsada, wadanda suke budewa idan kwastomomi suka zo.
Ari a kan shine bakin tekun Roca Partida, ɗayan ɗayan wuraren da ke ba ku damar zama har abada. A can masunta suna ba da yawon shakatawa a ƙarƙashin kogo, wanda, bisa ga abin da suka bayyana, ana iya ƙetara shi ta jirgin ruwa a ƙananan igiyar ruwa.
Bugu da ƙari, mun dawo kan hanya kuma kusan magariba mun isa bakin rairayin Montepío, inda akwai otal-otal da yawa da gidajen baƙi, da kuma wasu pasan manfetur don cin abinci a gaban teku. Shirun yayi yawa kwarai da gaske cewa ana iya jin kiɗan housesan gidajen da ke kusa da ƙauyen a farfajiyar masaukin da muka zaɓa don mu kwana, yayin da muke jin daɗin ƙididdigar taurari waɗanda ke walƙiya a cikin tsaftatacciyar sararin samaniya inda wata mai kyaun wata ta kasance har yanzu.
KARSHEN TAFIYA
Mun tambayi manajan otal din game da mafi kyawun yankunan da za mu iya samu kafin Catemaco kuma ya ba da shawarar Playa Escondida da Hicacos. Don haka, da wuri muka tashi zuwa sanannen garin mayu, tare da wata turbayar hanya, maras kyau, kuma ba'a ba da shawarar yin tafiya da daddare ba. Koyaya, ya cancanci tsallakewa, saboda jim kaɗan bayan mun sami karkatarwa zuwa farkon na farkon rairayin bakin teku da aka ambata, sunansa ba a banza ba, tunda yana da kyakkyawan kusurwa a tsakiyar babu inda, aka nutsar a cikin ciyawar ciyawa, a Wanne ne kawai za'a iya isa gare shi ta hanyar hawa wani matattakala da ba bisa ka'ida ba, ko ta jirgin ruwa ta teku. A gaskiya, wuri ne mai sihiri, inda za mu so a lalata jirginmu kuma ba za a cece mu ba.
Amma, sha'awarmu ta dauke hankalinmu kuma mun ci gaba zuwa Playa Hicacos, ɗayan tsirarun wuraren da ba budurwa ba inda akwai masauki mai sauƙi na yawon bude ido, da kuma wani ƙaramin gidan cin abinci wanda dangi ke kula da shi, wanda ke iya shirya ɗayan mafi kyawun ruwan kifin cewa mun ɗanɗana gabaɗaya. Af, lokacin da muka tambaye su "idan sabo ne", amsar ta zama kamar wasa, "ba yau ba ne, amma daga jiya da yamma ne".
Tafiya ta ƙare, kodayake ba a ɗora mai a cikin Catemaco ba, inda aka bar mu da sha'awar tsallakawa zuwa Tsibirin Birai, ko kuma ziyarci ɗaya daga cikin mayu. Amma, lokaci ya saita sauti kuma ta haka ne aka sanya komawa zuwa City ta Mexico. Koyaya, wannan hanyar ta bamu damar shiga wuraren da ba zato ba tsammani, a cikin keɓaɓɓun rairayin bakin teku da rairayin bakin teku waɗanda har yanzu suna da babbar damar gano yawancin matafiya, cikin ƙaunataccen kyawawan halittun Mexico.
