Sun ce bugun daga Apan, a cikin 1920s, ya riga ya zama al'ada. Jirgin kasan ya isa Mexico City kowace safiya tare da sabon juzu'i wanda aka yi amfani da shi a mafi kyawun tebura a cikin al'ummar Porfirian, kamar dai a ƙauye, lokacin da mata suke ɗaukar "itacate", koyaushe suna tare da ƙaramin butar wannan abin sha. .
Kokarin gano asalin wannan abin sha na ƙasa, sai na tafi ainihin asalin bayanin gargajiyarta: Apan. Abin mamaki, abin da ya rage na manyan filaye a yankin ya kasance cikin nutsuwa da rashin aiki har tsawon shekaru. Manyan gonakin maguey sun ɓace kuma waɗannan shuke-shuke masu daraja ana amfani dasu ne kawai don iyakance filayen sha'ir da suka maye gurbinsu. Pulque yanzu kawai ana samar dashi adadi kaɗan don amfanin gida!
Tambaya anan da can, sai na yi karo da Valentín Rosas, wani tsohon tlachiquero, mai fara'a da barkwanci wanda ya yanke shawarar raka ni kuma ya zama jagora na. Ganin abin da na gano a Apan ya karaya ni, sai na nufi garin Santa Rosa, inda Gabriela Vázquez ta ba da shawarar cewa mu nemi Don Pazcasio Gutiérrez: "Wannan mutumin ya sani!" –Ya bayyana mana.
Lokacin da muka isa gidan Mr. Gutiérrez, suna jagorantar mu zuwa tankin ruwa kuma daga cikin duhunta ya fito da kyakkyawar ƙawa ta mutum mai ƙarfi a cikin shekaru saba'in. Nayi tsokaci game da aniyata ta sanin "rayuwa" duk abinda yake da alaƙa. Ba tare da bata lokaci ba, ya yarda ya taimaka mana sannan ya yi ban kwana da “Mu hadu gobe! Bayan rana ta fito, za mu tafi duwatsu! " Kalmomin nasa suna gaya min cewa wannan karce-karcen ba batun gaggawa bane.
Kashegari, misalin 8 na safe, mun tashi zuwa tsaunuka a cikin nutsuwa. "Idan babu garaje, pulque na jirana a wurin!" –Ya fada mani lokacin da nake son garzaya “Avocado”, jakar sa mai kyau.
Don Pazcasio ya ce, "Lokacin da nake yarinya, Apan wani abu ne daban. Masussuka sun rufe ko'ina cikin ƙasar. Yawancinsu sunyi aiki akan manyan filaye. Sau biyu a rana tlachiqueros suna gogewa tare da cire ciyawar tare da acocotes (gourds) kuma suka ɗauki cushe kirji zuwa tinacales wanda zai iya ɗaukar lita 1,000.
“Wani muhimmin bangare na aikin - ci gaba da Don Pazcasio - shine a kara iri (xnaxtli) ko kuma cikakke pulque wanda za a fara narkar da shi. A cikin kansa, aikin yin juzu'i mai sauƙi ne amma an ɗora shi da camfi. An dauki tinacal a matsayin wuri mai tsaka-tsaki, kuma a farkon addu'oi ana yin su. Ba za ku iya sa hular ba, ba a shigar da baƙi ko mata ba kuma babu wata kalma mara kyau da za a faɗi, domin duk wannan na iya ɓata tarbiyya ”.
A ƙarshe mun sami maguey wanda suka ɗauki ciyawa domin mu ɗanɗana. Na sami dadi! Don Pazcasio ya bayyana min a sarari cewa ana samun juzu'i ne daga ferment na mead, yayin da mezcal da tequila ana samun su daga distillation na wannan ciyawar.
"Daga shekara bakwai zuwa 10, maguey ya kai girmanta, kuma daga tsakiya, kamar babban katako wanda yake fara kumburi, babban kara na fure daya ya fara girma," Don Pazcasio ya ci gaba da rubuta mana. Kafin ya yi furanni, ana dasa shukar ta hanyar yanke itacen da ke bayyana ‘abarba’ daga inda ake yin buɗewar kusan santimita talatin ko hamsin don fitar da ciyawar. Kowane shuka na iya samarwa tsakanin lita biyar zuwa shida a kowace rana. Dole ne a tattara ruwan 'ya'yan itace sau biyu a rana don kauce wa ƙanshi, kuma don kare tsire-tsire daga kwari da ƙasa, wasu ganye suna ninkewa a kan buɗewa, suna haɗa su da ƙaya. Bayan wata huɗu ko shida shukar, wacce ta riga ta samar da lita mai yawa, ta rasa ainihinta kuma ta bushe.
“Pulque madara ne, mai ɗan kauri da laushi kuma yana da barasa fiye da giya, amma ƙasa da ruwan inabi. Da yake yana da wadataccen bitamin, ma'adanai da amino acid, sai su ce matakin digiri ɗaya ne kawai ya rage da naman kaza! Ana sanya 'yankakken' ya'yan itace a jikin 'warke', wanda ke matukar inganta dandanorsa kuma yana sanya shi ya zama mai gina jiki. "
Akwai shaidu da yawa na tarihi game da shan wannan abin sha, daga cikinsu akwai wasu Mayan hieroglyphs da bango a cikin Babban Pyramid na Cholula, a cikin Puebla, inda a ciki aka lura da gungun masu shaye shaye. Gaskiyar ita ce kusan dukkanin al'adun Mexico sun yi amfani da shi kuma wasu sun yi hakan kusan kusan shekaru dubu biyu. Wasu sun gaskata cewa allahiya Mayahuel ta shiga zuciyar bishiyar maguey kuma ta bar jininta ya gudana tare da ruwan tsiron ya haifar da fure. Wasu kuma sun tabbatar da cewa Papantzin, wani basarake ne daga Toltec, ya gano yadda ake fitar da ciyawar sai ya aika wa 'yarsa Xóchitl tare da sadakar wannan ruwan ɗumi mai dadi ga Sarki Tecpancaltzin, wanda kwaɗayin abin sha ya bugu, har ya aure ta. Wasu kuma suka ce wanda ya gano juzu'i kuma ya zama farkon wanda ya bugu shi ne opossum!
Pulque mashahurai da firistoci sun bugu don bikin manyan nasarori ko a ranakun hutu na addini na musamman. Amfani da shi ya keɓance ne kawai ga tsofaffi, mata masu shayarwa, masu mulki da firistoci, yayin da mutane kawai ke cikin wasu bukukuwa.
Bayan mamayar babu sauran dokokin da ke kula da amfani da harsashi, kuma har zuwa 1672 ne gwamnatin mataimakin ta fara tsara ta.
Farawa a cikin 1920s, gwamnati tayi ƙoƙari don kawar da abin da ke faruwa. A lokacin shugabancin Lázaro Cárdenas akwai yaƙin neman yaƙi da shan barasa wanda ke ƙoƙarin danne shi kwata-kwata.
Don Pazcasio ya kammala "A yau wannan ba wasa ba ne." Chestnuts da acocotes yanzu ana yinsu ne da fiberglass, kuma akwai wasu waɗanda suke son aikawa da gwangwani! Zuwa Amurka. Sun ce suna kiransa ‘Apan nectar’, amma gaskiyar magana ita ce, ta ɗanɗana kamar komai, banda bugun jini! Wasu lokuta masu yawon bude ido suna son gwadawa, amma yana da matukar wahala a gare su su sami mai inganci mai kyau. Masana'antar jujjuyawar ta mutu! Ina fata gwamnati za ta yi wani abu don haka buguwa, abin sha irin wannan inganci, zai sake dawo da farin jini kuma ya sami tagomashin da tequila ke da shi a yau a duk duniya. Maguey kamar tushen ƙasarmu ne da kuma zubar jini, jini ne da ya kamata ya ci gaba da ciyar da mu. "
