Keken yana ba mu abubuwa daban-daban, tarayya tare da mahalli ya zama wani abu na musamman kuma yanayin ƙasa a wasu lokuta yakan samar da kyakkyawar dangantaka da ƙafafunmu. Saboda wannan dalili, lokacin da nake bayanin hanyar da zan ziyarci theauyukan sihiri na Jalisco, sai na yanke shawara kan keken hawa.
Ba daidai bane kallon ƙasa daga iska, fiye da daga ƙasa ɗaya ko ƙasa da shi. Mun kuma yi imanin cewa ra'ayoyi suna canzawa dangane da yanayin safarar da mutum yayi amfani da shi da ma saurin tafiyarsa. Ba abu daya bane jin dadi muyi sauri tare da wata kunkuntar hanya, muna jin hanyar tana gudana karkashin kafafunmu, muyi tafiya tana tsinkayar dalla-dalla daki-daki.
Launin zane
Ziyartar Tapalpa, ƙasa mai launuka a cikin Nahuatl, ya zama kamar kama da ruwa cikin zanen mai zanen. Mun isa cikin motar, daga Guadalajara kuma bayan "karin kumallo na zakarun gasar" (da kaina na furta kaina mai sha'awar gurasar Guadalajara) mun kusan shirye don hawa kan ƙafafun. Hular kwano, safar hannu, tabarau da wasu kayan kekuna, da wasu kayan masarufi. Tare da motsawar farko, motsi a kwance ya fara, amma kuma a tsaye, shine mitoci na farko da muka fara tafiya sune na titunan titin Tapalpa. Tafiya cikin su ya zama mai tausasa nama, wanda aka kalleshi daga kyakkyawan hangen nesa, motsa jiki "shakatawa", amma babu wani abu kamar tunani ko yoga. Koyaya, yakamata ku zama masu hankali, kuma gaskiyar ita ce yayin da nake rubuta waɗannan kalmomin, ƙwaƙwalwar ajiyar jiggling ba ta da ta kanta da ƙwaƙwalwar da ake bugawa ta hanyar Taɓalpa, da kuma ɗaukar bukin launi na fararen gidajensa da tayal ja, da baranda da kofofin katako. Idan aka fuskance shi da wannan katin, gaskiyar ita ce cewa duk wani nau'in rashin jin daɗi na jiki an gafarta masa, ko kuma kamar yadda suke faɗa a can, "duk wanda yake son peach ya riƙe fulawar".
Kafin barin Tapalpa a baya, ya cancanci yin taƙaitacciyar ziyara zuwa tsakiyar garin. A gefen titi a babban titi, wasu tebura sun baje kolin kayan zaki na yanki, mashahuran mashaya, misali; abubuwa daban-daban na madara, kamar su pegoste; wasu 'ya'yan itacen sierra a cikin syrup, da kuma rompope na gargajiya na yankin. Kamar yadda kaza take bin sahun masara, haka zamu ci gaba a titin Matamoros, muyi post bayan post har sai mun tsallaka haikalin San Antonio, wanda yake tsaye a ƙarshen babban jirgin sama. A gaban wannan ginin akwai tsohuwar hasumiyar kararrawa na cocin guda na ƙarni na 16.
Ayyukan Tula
Littleananan kaɗan, yin tarko bayan yawo, sai muka shiga ƙauyen Guadalajara, muka nufi Hacienda de San Francisco. Hannun shinge marasa iyaka sun kasance tare da mu kuma a kowane gefen hanyar. Manyan bishiyoyi, kamar koren kaset wanda aka lakafta shi ta hanyar shafawar iska, ya canza launin launuka gaba daya, wanda yake rintsawa lokaci zuwa lokaci ta wasu rukunan furannin daji. Ruwan sama na kwanakin da suka gabata ya haɓaka rafuka kuma ƙetare shi shi ne tabbacin cewa za mu wartsake ƙafafunmu. Sabuwar iska daga gandun daji ta rungume mu yayin da aka rufe hanyar da bishiyoyi masu daɗi, bishiyoyin strawberry, itacen oaks da oyameles. Hanyar, wacce makomarta ita ce garin Ferrería de Tula, tun da ya rigaya ya canza zuwa wata kunkuntar hanya, ya ratsa wasu ƙofofin katako masu tsattsauran ra'ayi waɗanda suka sa muka tsaya. A wasu lokuta, hankalina ya ƙetare iyakoki kuma yanayin wurin ya dawo da ni zuwa waɗancan makiyaya marasa kyau na tsaunukan Switzerland Amma a'a, jikina har yanzu yana Jalisco, kuma ra'ayin cewa muna da waɗannan kyawawan wurare a Meziko ya cika ni da farin ciki.
Da kadan kadan, wasu gidaje suka fara bayyana a gefen titi, alama ce da ke nuna cewa muna gab da wayewa. Ba da daɗewa ba za mu kusanci Ferrería de Tula.
Munyi sabuwar jujjuya zuwa taswirar kuma yanzu hanyarmu ta doshi hawan dutse, mun canza zuwa saurin saurin, mun sunkuyar da kanmu, mun maida hankali, munyi numfashi sosai…. Mintuna da masu lankwasa sun wuce, har sai da muka kai ga wucewar tamu, daidai inda sanannen “daidaitaccen dutse” yake; dutsen da ke kwance, wanda yake hutawa akan wani zagaye, yana wasa don daidaitawa.
Juanacatlán, Tapalpa da duwatsu
Kuma a ƙarshe idi ya fara, hanyar da ke iska zuwa cikin zurfin gandun daji mai yawa. Munyi tsalle mun tsere da duwatsu masu kaifi wanda ke barazanar tayar da tayoyin mu. Lafiya lau muka isa garin Juanacatlán, adaidai lokacin da babur na ya fara korafi. Mun tsaya a shagon sayar da kayan abinci na farko don sanya kanmu da kayan abinci na gaggawa, kuma ba zato ba tsammani, mutumin daga shagon ya dauke mu zuwa gida, inda ragowar mai daga motarsa ita ce mafita ta ɗan lokaci ga sarkar da nake yi.
Tare da komai cikin tsari da kayayyakin gyara, hanyarmu, bayan layuka da yawa, mun koma Tapalpa, amma hanyar ba kai tsaye ba ce. A nesa, a cikin wani kwari mai juyawa, na ga manyan dutsen duwatsu warwatse ko'ina cikin wurin. Amsar tambayar da na hango ta kasance mai sauƙi, game da abin da ake kira Kwarin Enigmas ko “duwatsu”. Akwai labarai da labarai da yawa waɗanda ke tattare da juna a cikin wannan wuri na musamman. Babban janar yana magana akan meteorites wanda ya faɗi a wannan lokacin dubunnan shekarun da suka gabata; Waɗanda suke zaton wannan, suna tallafawa ra'ayinsu tare da cewa muhalli ba shi da ciyayi kuma suna jayayya cewa babu wata ciyawa da zata iya girma a nan. Amma wannan ba abin yarda bane sosai, tunda da farko kallo daya kamar ana ganin kiwon dabbobi gaba daya shine ya haifar da kwararar hamada, gami da sare bishiyoyi. Wata mahangar ta ce duwatsun suna karkashin kasa har sai da aka gano su saboda zaizayar ruwa. Mafi mahimmancin ra'ayi shine cewa waɗannan ɗakunan dutse suna da kuzari har ma da abubuwan sihiri. Gaskiyar ita ce wuri ne da aka mamaye tun zamanin da kuma daga baya wasu kabilun pre-Hispanic suka mamaye shi. Wasu daga cikin mazauna yankin sun tabbatar mana da cewa akwai karancin ruwa a nan a matsayin shaidar tsoffin mazaunan, amma ba a bayyana wadannan abubuwan da suka faru ba.
Yayin da nake sana'ar wasa ina jin daɗin shahararren shahararren tallar taliyar da aka yi mini magana sosai, lokacin da shawara ɗaya ta nuna cewa zan bar su zuwa gaba kuma in ci gaba da sana'ar. A takaice, bayan jinkirta sha'awar, mun sake zagaye garin, saboda a saman kuna da ra'ayi mara misali. Ba tare da shakkar maganar abokina Chetto ba, dan tseren keke daga Guadalajara wanda ke jagora a cikin abubuwan da na faru a Jalisco, na fara hawa kan titunan da ke hade. Sun zama kamar ba su da iyaka, amma bayan sun yi gumi da yawa mililiters a ƙarƙashin rana mai zafi, mun ga ginin inda Hotel del Country ke tsaye, kuma daga can, a farfajiyar gidan cin abincin, kuna da hangen nesa na kwari da duwatsu. daga Tapalpa, haka kuma daga El Nogal dam, makomarmu ta gaba. Idan muka dawo kan hanyar datti, ratar da kamar bayan tsutsa ba ta daina hawa da sauka, ta dauke mu a kusa da madatsar kadada talatin. Kimanin kilomita 2 da rabi kafin mu dawo garin, mun wuce ta Atacco. A cikin wannan yankin makwabta shine tushen farko na Tapalpa kuma har yanzu akwai kango na haikalin farko da aka gina a 1533. A cikin garin, wanda sunansa ke nufin "wurin da aka haifi ruwa", akwai wurin shakatawa, wanda shi kaɗai ke yankin.
Don haka babinmu na farko a cikin wannan kasada ta sihiri ya ƙare, ba shakka, tare da fararen tamale a tsakani da kofi na tukunyar ta'aziya, muna kallo daga baranda yadda rana ta ɓoye a bayan jan rufin.
Mazamitla
Lokacin da na zo nan sai na daina jin girman laifi game da komai game da kirkirar katin wasiƙa ta Alps. Da kyau, a zahiri, ana kiran Mazamitla da Switzerland ta Mexico, kodayake ga wasu wasu "babban birnin tsaunuka ne." Tana zaune a tsakiyar Sierra del Tigre, amma awa ɗaya da rabi kawai daga garin Guadalajara, wuri ne mai kyau ga waɗanda ke neman kasada, amma kuma wuri ne na shakatawa da jin daɗin jituwa na abubuwa masu sauƙi.
Don neman wuri don karin kumallo, mun yi tafiya sau da yawa zuwa tsakiyar gari. Gine-ginen gabaɗaya sun yi kama da na Tapalpa, tare da tsofaffin gidaje tare da adobe da rufin katako, baranda da ƙofofi waɗanda ke ba da inuwa ga titunan tituna da kuma kananun tituna. Koyaya, Parroquia de San Cristóbal, da salon keɓaɓɓen sa, yayi nesa da abin da muka gani a baya.
Yayin da rana ta leko ta cikin rufin geometric, titin ya fara rasa sanyin safiya kuma wasu makwabta sun share rabon titin. Shagunan sana'o'in hannu sun fara tashi a facades na shagunan cikin gari. Muna lekawa muna neman fruitsa fruitsan itace, cuku, jellies, hawthorn, baƙar fata, sabbin kayan kiwo kamar su man shanu, cream da panelas, da irin abincin da ake da shi. A ƙarshe na yanke shawara a kan shaa guava kuma mun shirya don abin da muka zo, yana wasa.
Epenche Grande da Manzanilla de la Paz
Mun bar garin, mun ɗauki hanyar zuwa Tamazula. Kusan kilomita 4 ko 5 nesa, rata tana farawa a gefen dama, wanda shine hanyar zuwa. Duk da cewa akwai motoci, yana da wuya a haɗu da ɗaya kuma harba shi kusan yana da kyau. Wannan hanyar da ba ta da tsada-da-tsaka tana da alamun da ke nuna nisan kilomita, lanƙwasa har ma da bayanan yawon buɗe ido. Bayan 'yan kilomitoci kaɗan mun tsallaka layin La Puente, a tsayin mita 2,036, kuma bayan doguwar hanya, sai muka isa ƙaramar ƙauyen Epenche Grande. Amma kusan ba tare da tsayawa ba mun ci gaba da wasu metersan mituna inda, a gefen gari, akwai Gidan enasa na Epenche Grande, mafaka don hutawa da more abinci mai kyau. Wani lambu mai cike da furanni da shuke-shuken yana kewaye da babban gidan mai tsattsauran ra'ayi tare da baranda na ciki wanda ke gayyatarku da shakatawa da jin daɗin sautin tsuntsaye da iska, ƙarƙashin inuwar manyan bishiyoyin pine da iska mai kyau. Amma don kada mu yi sanyi sosai ko mu rasa zaren labarin, mun koma kan kekuna. Rancherías da gonaki sun mamaye shimfidar wuri. Lokaci zuwa lokaci, gonakin dankalin turawa suna yadawa a filayen kuma suna yaduwa karkashin sa idon manyan tsaunukan Sierra del Tigre. La'asar ce kuma a ƙasan ƙafafun, inuwar ba kome, rana tana ta faɗuwa sama kuma iska ba ta hurawa. Hanyar da a wasu lokuta ta sami launin fari, ta haskaka rana da ƙarfi har ta kai ga fuskokin sun zama na dindindin. Don haka muna fuskantar wucewar dutsen na gaba kuma mu haye tsaunin Pitahaya mai tsayin mita 2,263. Abin farin ciki, duk abin da ke hawa dole ne ya sauko, don haka sauran hanyoyin sun zama mafi daɗi har Manzanilla de la Paz. Bayan sun bi ta cikin karamin shagon da ke akwai kuma suka nemi abu mafi sanyi da suke da shi, wasu titunan cobb da kuma rigaya sun mamaye su, sun jagorance mu zuwa karamar madatsar garin, inda muka yi amfani da damar muka huta a inuwar wasu itacen willow, tunda har yanzu muna da su hanya mai nisa don tafiya.
Nisan kilomita 6 na gaba sun kusan hawa, amma ya cancanci hakan. Mun isa wani wuri mai faɗi inda dukkan Sierra del Tigre suka miƙe ƙarƙashin takalmanmu. Hanya ta cikin garuruwan Jalisco yanzu tana da wata ma'ana, tunda ganin yalwar waɗannan ƙasashe ta wannan mahallin yana da sihiri irin nasa.
An bar tazararmu a baya, an maye gurbin ta wata hanyar nishaɗi wanda tsawon kilomita da yawa ya kai mu ga zurfafawa cikin zurfin bishiyar da itacen oak da ke ɓoye daga wasu hasken haske. A karkashin zinare na zinare da yanayi ke samu a hasken yamma, mun dawo kan hanya ta hanyar Mazamitla, don neman kyakkyawan abincin dare.
A lokacin da nake birgima a kan kwalta, na sake nazarin shimfidar wurare daban-daban, hawa da sauka, ina kokarin yin rikodin kuma ba tare da rasa dalla-dalla ba, kilomita 70 da muka bi diddigin hanyoyin Jalisco.
Source: Mexico da ba a sani ba A'a. 373 / Maris 2008
