Wannan ƙaramar ƙabilar da ke rayuwa tsakanin iyakokin Oaxaca da Guerrero suna jan hankali don ƙarfin da take kiyaye al'adun ta. A kallon farko, kyawawan tufafi da ke bambanta su ya yi fice.
Yankuna masu ban sha'awa na tsaunuka suna mamakin waɗanda suka yanke shawarar shiga Mixteca. Babban launuka iri-iri an gauraya: bambancin yawa na kore, rawaya, ruwan kasa, terracotta; da kuma farin ciki, lokacin da fararen fata suka ziyarta, suna shelar ruwan sama wanda ke ciyar da yankin gaba ɗaya. Wannan kyaun gani shine kyauta ta farko wacce ake girmama baƙi da ita.
Mun nufi Santiago Pinotepa Nacional; a cikin mafi girman ɓangaren tsaunukan akwai biranen Tlaxiaco da Putla, ƙofofi ga yawancin al'ummomin Mixtec da Triqui. Muna ci gaba da bin hanyarmu ta gangarowa zuwa gabar tekun, 'yan kilomitoci kafin mu isa gareta mun isa San Pedro Amuzgos, wanda a cikin asalin harshensa ana kiransa Tzjon Non (wanda kuma aka rubuta a matsayin Tajon Noan) kuma yana nufin "garin yadudduka": ita ce kujerar birni ta Amuzga don bangaren Oaxaca.
A can, kamar yadda yake a wuraren da za mu ziyarta daga baya, mun yi mamakin mutuncin mutanenta, mahimmancinsu da kula da su. Yayin da muke tafiya cikin titunanta, mun zo ɗaya daga cikin makarantu huɗu da suke can; Munyi mamakin yadda 'yan mata da samari da yawa, tsakanin dariya da wasanni, suka shiga aikin gina sabon aji; Aikinsa ya kunshi safarar ruwa don hadawa, a cikin kwale-kwale gwargwadon girman kowane mutum. Daya daga cikin malaman ya bayyana mana cewa sun kasance suna daukar nauyin nauyi ko rikitarwa a tsakanin dukkan wadanda al'umma ke aiwatarwa; a wannan halin aikin ƙananan ya kasance mai mahimmanci, yayin da suke kawo ruwa daga ƙaramin rafi. "Har yanzu akwai sauran kuma muna kulawa da ruwan," ya gaya mana. Yayin da yara kanana suka yi nishadi tare da aikin gida kuma sun yi gasa cikin sauri, malamai da wasu iyayen yara sun aiwatar da ayyukan da nufin gina sabon ɓangaren makarantar. Don haka, kowa ya ba da haɗin kai a cikin muhimmin aiki kuma "a gare su ana ƙara jin daɗin sa", in ji malamin. Al'adar yin aiki tare don cimma manufa daya abu ne da ya zama ruwan dare a Oaxaca; a cikin mashigar ruwa an san shi asguelaguetza, kuma a cikin Mixteca suna kiransa tequio.
Amuzgos ko Amochcos mutane ne na musamman. Kodayake maƙwabta suna da tasirin Mixtecs, waɗanda waɗanda suke danginsu, amma al'adunsu da yarensu suna nan suna aiki kuma a wasu fannoni an ƙarfafa su. Sun shahara a cikin yankin Mixtec na kasa da kuma na bakin teku saboda ilimin tsirrai na daji tare da amfani da magani, da kuma babban ci gaban da aka samu a magungunan gargajiya, wanda suke da kwarin gwiwa sosai, tunda sun tabbatar da cewa yafi tasiri sosai.
Don ƙarin koyo game da wannan garin, muna ƙoƙari mu kusanci tarihinta: mun gano cewa kalmar amuzgo ta fito ne daga kalmar amoxco (daga Nahuatl amoxtli, littafi, da co, Locative); saboda haka, amuzgo zai iya nufin: “wurin littattafai”.
Dangane da alamomin tattalin arziki na ƙididdigar da INI ta gudanar a shekarar 1993, wannan ƙabilar ta ƙunshi Amuzgos 23,456 a jihar Guerrero da 4,217 a Oaxaca, duk masu magana da yarensu na asali. A cikin Ometepec kawai Mutanen Espanya ke magana fiye da Amuzgo; A cikin sauran al'ummomin, mazaunan suna magana da yarensu kuma akwai peoplean mutane da ke magana da Sifanisanci da kyau.
Daga baya za mu ci gaba zuwa Santiago Pinotepa Nacional kuma daga can za mu ɗauki hanyar da ke zuwa tashar jirgin ruwa na Acapulco, don bincika ɓatawar da ke zuwa Ometepec, mafi girma daga cikin garuruwan Amuzgo. Yana da halaye na ƙaramin birni, akwai otal-otal da gidajen abinci da yawa, kuma hutu ne na farilla kafin hawa tsaunuka a gefen Guerrero. Muna ziyartar kasuwar Lahadi, inda suka fito daga mafi yawan al'ummomin Amuzga da ke nesa don siyarwa ko musayar kayayyakinsu da samun abin da suke buƙata zuwa gida. Ometepec galibi mestizo ne kuma yana da yawan mulatto.
Da gari ya waye muka nufi kan duwatsu. Burinmu shi ne mu isa yankunan Xochistlahuaca. Ranar ta kasance cikakke: bayyananne, kuma tun da wuri ana jin zafi. Hanyar tayi kyau har zuwa aya; sai yayi kama da yumbu. A cikin ɗayan al'ummomin farko mun sami jerin gwano. Mun tambayi menene dalili kuma suka gaya mana cewa sun dauki San Agustín ne don su roke shi ya yi ruwan sama, saboda fari yana cutar da su sosai. Kawai sai muka fahimci wani abin mamaki: a tsaunuka mun ga ruwan sama, amma a yankin bakin teku da ƙananan zafi yana da matsi kuma hakika babu wata alama da ke nuna cewa wasu ruwa za su faɗi. A cikin jerin gwanon, mazan da ke tsakiyar suna dauke da waliyyi, kuma mata, wadanda suka fi yawa, suna kirkirar wani irin rakiya, kowannensu dauke da kunshin furanni a hannunsu, sai suka yi addu’a da waka a Amuzgo.
Daga baya zamu sami jana'iza. Mazauna yankin cikin nutsuwa da nutsuwa suka fito da akwatin gawa suka ce kar mu ɗauki hoto. Sunyi tafiya a hankali zuwa ga pantheon kuma sun nuna cewa ba za mu iya raka su ba; mun ga cewa wasu gungun mata suna jiran isowar ayarin tare da furannin furanni kwatankwacin wadanda muka gani a cikin jerin gwanon. Sun shiga gaba kuma kungiyar ta bi ta kan hanya.
Kodayake Amuzgos galibi Katolika ne, suna haɗuwa da ayyukansu na addini tare da al'adun gargajiyar farko da ta keɓaɓɓu ga aikin gona; Suna yin addu'oi don karɓar yalwa mai yawa kuma suna neman kariyar yanayi, canyons, koguna, duwatsu, ruwan sama, ba shakka sarki rana da sauran abubuwan bayyana na halitta.
Bayan mun isa Xochistlahuaca, mun sami kyakkyawan gari mai fararen gidaje da jan rufin tayal. Munyi mamakin rashin tsabtar tsafta na manyan titunan sa da titunan ta. Yayin da muke tafiya a cikin su, mun sami masaniya game da aikin kwalliya da kewayawa wanda Evangelina ke hadawa, wanda ke magana da wasu Sifananci don haka shi ne wakilin kuma mai kula da baƙi waɗanda suka san aikin da suke yi a can.
Muna raba tare da Evangelina da sauran mata yayin da suke aiki; Sun gaya mana yadda suke yin aikin gaba daya, daga sakar zare, saƙar yadin, sanya suturar kuma a ƙarshe su saka shi da wannan ɗanɗano mai kyau da ƙyalli wanda ke nuna su, ƙwarewar da ake samu daga uwaye zuwa 'ya'ya mata, har zuwa tsararraki.
Mun ziyarci kasuwa kuma muyi dariya tare da elcuetero, halayyar da ke ratsawa ta cikin garuruwa a yankin dauke da abubuwan mahimmanci don bukukuwan. Mun kuma yi magana da mai siyar da zaren, wanda ya kawo su daga wata al'umma mai nisa, don matan da ba sa son ko ba sa iya samar da zaren nasu na zaren.
Babban aikin tattalin arzikin jama'ar Amuzgo shine noma, wanda kawai zai basu damar rayuwa mai ƙima, kamar yawancin ƙananan al'ummomin noma a ƙasarmu. Babban amfanin shi shine: masara, wake, barkono, gyada, squash, dankali mai zaki, dawa, hibiscus, tumatir da sauran abubuwan da basu dace ba. Suna da nau'ikan bishiyun 'ya'yan itace da yawa, a cikinsu akwai fitattun mangoro, bishiyoyin lemu, gwanda, kankana da abarba. An kuma sadaukar da su ga kiwon shanu, aladu, awaki da dawakai, tare da kaji da kuma dibar zuma. A cikin al'ummomin Amuzga, abu ne na yau da kullun ka ga mata dauke da bokiti a kawunansu, inda suke dauke da sayayyar su ko kayayyakin da ake son sayarwa, duk da cewa musayar ta fi zama ruwan dare a tsakanin su fiye da musayar kudi.
'Yan Amuzgos suna zaune ne a ƙasan Sierra Madre del Sur, a iyakar jihohin Guerrero da Oaxaca. Iklima a yankinku tana da dumi-dumi kuma ana amfani da tsarin danshi waɗanda suka zo daga Tekun Pacific. Abu ne gama gari a yankin ganin kasa mai jajaye, saboda tsananin yawan iskar shaka da suke gabatarwa.
Manyan al'ummomin Amuzga a Guerrero sune: Ometepec, Igualapa, Xochistlahuaca, Tlacoachistlahuaca da Cosuyoapan; kuma a cikin jihar Oaxaca: San Pedro Amuzguso da San Juan Cacahuatepec. Suna zaune ne a wani tsauni wanda ya faro daga mita 500 sama da matakin teku, inda San Pedro Amuzgos yake, a tsawan mita 900, a cikin wurare mafi tsaunuka na ɓangaren tsaunuka inda suke zaune. Wannan tsaunin ana kiran sa Sierra de Yucoyagua, wanda ke raba rafin da kogin Ometepec da La Arena suka kafa.
Ofaya daga cikin mahimman ayyukansu, kamar yadda muka sami damar tabbatarwa a cikin tafiyarmu, mata ne ke aiwatar da su: muna komawa zuwa kyawawan sutturar riguna waɗanda suke yi don amfanin kansu da kuma siyarwa ga sauran al'ummomi - kodayake suna samun ɗan kaɗan daga gare su, Tun da, kamar yadda suke faɗa, aikin kyan gani yana da "wahala" kuma ba za su iya cajin farashin da ke da ƙimar gaske ba, saboda za su yi tsada sosai kuma ba za su iya sayar da su ba. Wuraren da ake yin yawancin riguna da rigunan mata sune Xochistlahuaca da San Pedro Amuzgos. 'Yan mata,' yan mata, samari da tsofaffi mata suna sanya kayan gargajiya na yau da kullun tare da alfahari.
Tafiya cikin wadannan titunan na ƙasa mai jan launi, tare da fararen gidaje masu jan rufi da ciyayi masu yalwa, amsa gaisuwa ga duk wanda yake wucewa, yana da daɗi mai daɗi ga waɗanda muke zaune a cikin garin maelstrom; Yana jigilar mu zuwa wasu lokuta masu nisa inda, kamar yadda yake faruwa a can, mutum ya kasance mafi yawan mutane da abokantaka.
LOS AMUZGOS: WAKA DA RAWA
A cikin al'adun Oaxacan, yawancin raye-raye da raye-raye sun yi fice tare da hatimi na musamman, ko dai a wasu al'amuran zamantakewar jama'a ko yayin bikin wani bikin coci. Ma'anar al'adar, bikin addini wanda ɗan adam ya kirkira rawa tun zamanin da, shine yake sanar da kuma motsa ruhun igenan asalin choreography.
Rawarsu ta ɗauke ne da martabar magabata, wanda aka gada daga ayyukan da Masarautar ba za ta iya korar su ba.
A kusan dukkanin yankuna na jihar, zanga-zangar rawa ta gabatar da halaye daban-daban kuma “rawar damisa” da Putla Amuzgos ya yi ba ban da haka. An yi rawa a tsugune kuma da alama an samo ta ne ta hanyar abin farauta, kamar yadda za a iya fahimta daga musgunawar da karen da jaguar suka yi, wanda "güenches" waɗanda ke sanye da kayan waɗannan dabbobi suke wakilta. Kiɗan yana haɗuwa da sautunan bakin teku da asalin abubuwan da suka dace da sauran matakan: ban da zapateados da jujjuyawar ɗan, yana da sauye-sauye masu ban mamaki, kamar su girgiza kai tsaye da lankwasawar akwati, waɗanda whichan rawa suke yi da hannuwansu sanya shi a kugu, cikakken juyawa kan kansa, a cikin wannan matsayin, da saurin motsawa na lankwasawa, cikin hali kamar zai share ƙasa tare da mayafan da suke ɗauka a hannun dama. Masu rawa suna tsugune a ƙarshen kowane ɓangare na rawa.
Kasancewar batutuwa ɗaya ko biyu a cikin tufafi masu ban mamaki gama gari ne. Su ne "güenches" ko "filaye", waɗanda ke kula da nishadantar da jama'a da barkwancinsu da almubazzarancinsu. Amma game da raye-raye na kiɗan raye-raye, ana amfani da tarurruka daban-daban: kirtani ko iska, goge mai sauƙi da jarana ko, kamar yadda yake faruwa a wasu raye-raye na Villaltec, kayan tsofaffi, kamar shawm. Saitin Yatzona na chirimiteros yana da ƙarancin daraja a duk yankin.
IDAN KA JE SAN PEDRO AMUZGOS
Idan ka tashi daga Oaxaca zuwa Huajuapan de León akan Babbar Hanya 190, kilomita 31 a gaban Nochixtlán za ku sami mahadar tare da Babbar Hanya 125 wacce ta haɗu da tudu da bakin teku; Sanya kudu zuwa Santiago Pinotepa Nacional, kuma tare da kilomita 40 don zuwa wannan birni, zamu sami garin San Pedro Amuzgos, Oaxaca.
Amma idan kuna son zuwa Ometepec (Guerrero) kuma kun kasance a Acapulco, kimanin kilomita 225, ɗauki babbar hanya 200 zuwa gabas kuma zaku sami karkatar 15 kilomita daga gada daga kan kogin Quetzala; don haka zai isa ga manyan garuruwan Amuzgo.
Source: Mexico da ba a sani ba A'a. 251 / Janairu 1998
