Wannan aikin fasaha a yau ya zama kyakkyawa kayan haɗi waɗanda al'ummomin duniya ke girmama su sosai, waɗanda ke jin daɗin aikinsu na kirki. Kowace mace 'yar Meziko ta kasance tana da aƙalla guda ɗaya a cikin tufafinta kuma ta sanya shi don abin da yake, yanki ne na musamman saboda an yi shi da hannu da kyawawan abubuwa.
Tun kafin zamanin Hispaniyanci, an sake yin rebozo a matsayin yanki na masaku na musamman, wanda ya sauya matsayinsa na kayan aiki, don zama alama ta asalin kasa, wanda masu sana'ar Mexico na dogon lokaci suka sami damar kama kirkira da jin dadin fasahar 'yan asalin kasar da mashahuri. Abin da ya fi nuna mahimmancinsa fiye da fitowarta a cikin amfanin da mata ke ba shi a cikin mahimman lokuta na rayuwarta, kamar: lullub'e ta a haihuwarta, haɗa da trousseau na bikin aure kuma, a ƙarshe, kasancewa ɓangare na tufafin da dole yi mata rakiya a tafiyarta zuwa lahira.
Taron dangi
Kamar yawancin sana'o'inmu na hannu, shawl ya samu a cikin bita na dangi kyakkyawan wuri don neman bayani dalla-dalla, ya zama al'ada da alfahari, ya gaji sirrin kasuwanci da ilimi, daga tsara zuwa tsara.
A yau, aikin fasaha na shawl ba ya wuce ɗayan mafi kyawun lokacinsa. Abubuwa daban-daban kamar masana'antar da ke gabatowa, rashin yaduwar kayan, tsadar kayan masarufi, fifikon sauran nau'ikan sutura da rashin sha'awar sabbin al'ummomi don ci gaba da kasuwancin, sanya wannan fasaha a cikin haɗari mai haɗari na ƙarewa
Cibiyoyin samar da kayatarwa sau daya kamar Santa María del Río, a San Luis Potosí; Tenancingo, a cikin Jihar Meziko; La Piedad, Michoacán; Santa Ana Chautenpan, Tlaxcala; da Moroleón, Guanajuato, sun nuna asara mai yawa a siyan samfuransu na ban mamaki, masu sana'arsu suna manne da ci gaba da kasuwancin, fiye da son al'adar fiye da kasuwanci.
Makarantar rebozo
A cikin cibiyar samar da Santa María del Río, a cikin jihar San Luis Potosí, al'adun masu fasahar kere-kere sun samo asali ne tun a shekarar 1764, kuma ya tashi ne a kan larurar da matan mestizo suke da shi na suturar da za ta rufe kawunansu yayin shiga haikalin.
Ana iya cewa a tsawon lokaci ya kasance kuma ya kasance tufafi wanda aka samo a cikin tufafi na mace mai wadata, ko kuma a cikin mafi ƙasƙanci mazauni, kawai ya bambanta amfani da shi, tunda ga waɗansu yanki ne da aka ba da izinin nunawa matsalar tattalin arzikinta, yayin da a wasu kuma suttura ce wacce take taimakawa cikin ayyukan yau da kullun (gashi, jaka, shimfiɗar jariri, shroud, da sauransu).
Wani labari yana ba mu damar jin irin shigar da rebozo ya yi tare da matan yankin da kuma musamman waɗanda suka fito daga asalin Otomí, tunda an ce suna da al'adar gaskiya ta tsoma bakin rebozo a cikin ruwan asalin lokacin da suka tuna saurayin nasu.
Makarantar bitar rebocería ta yi aiki a wannan rukunin yanar gizon tun 1953, a ƙarƙashin jagorancin ƙwararren mai fasaha Felipe Acevedo; a can baƙon zai iya lura da cikakken tsarin masana'antar suturar da ke ɗaukar daga kwanaki 30 zuwa 60 a matsakaita kuma ta ƙunshi matakai 15. Wannan makarantar bita ta sami lambar yabo ta kasa ta 2002 don Mashahurin Al'adu da Hadisai.
Abun takaici a cikin wannan mahaɗan hoton ba shi da bambanci sosai da abin da ke faruwa a wasu yankuna na Jamhuriyar, a cewar hukumomin jihar, masana'antar sake dawo da kayan masarufi da ta ba da fitattun kayayyaki zuwa jihohi daban-daban da ƙasashen waje, tana cikin mawuyacin halin rikici saboda wasu dalilai kamar karancin bukata, tsadar kayan masarufi da bunkasa wasu ayyukan a yankin.
Lashe lambar yabo
Koyaya, cibiyoyi daban-daban suna yin ƙoƙari a yankin don adana aikin, tare da haɓaka samar da siliki na halitta; Isabel Rivera da Julia Sánchez wasu ƙwararrun masu fasaha ne biyu daga Santa María del Río, waɗanda aka ba su lambar yabo ta ƙasa da ƙasa; suna ɗaya daga cikin ƙwararrun masu fasahar kere kere waɗanda zasu iya yin zane-zane a kan rapacejo, a kan loom na baya. Sun keɓe kyakkyawan ɓangare na lokacinsu don yaɗawa da koyarwar kasuwancin, amma ƙari a matsayin aikin zamantakewar jama'a fiye da hanyar da ke da fa'ida.
Ya kamata a lura cewa loom na baya, kayan aiki da aka yi amfani da shi na dogon lokaci a cikin samarwa, yanzu ya zama tarihi; na farko saboda a halin yanzu 'yan kaɗan sun san yadda ake sarrafa shi kuma na biyu saboda tuni akwai hanyoyin da suka fi arha don samar da rebozo.
Baya ga taron bitar na Santa María, akwai wasu cibiyoyi a cikin ƙasar da aka keɓe don ceton al'adun rebozo kamar su Museo del Rebozo a La Piedad, Michoacán; Taron karawa juna sani na Masu Sakar Zamani na Uku, wanda aka kafa ta conaculta, a Acatlán, Veracruz; da kuma Rebocería Workshop na Gidan Al'adu a Tenancingo, Jihar Mexico, wanda ke kula da mai sana'ar Salomón González.
Ba da gudummawa tare da irin wannan aikin da kimanta fasaha da al'adun da waɗannan ɓangarorin suka ƙunsa yana ba mu damar rayar da al'adun kakanninmu, amma kuma gaskiyar sake karɓar wannan rigar don amfanin yau da kullum yana magana ne game da kyawawan tufafi da sha'awar wuce al'adun Mexico.
Shawls din daga San Luis Potosí da gaske lu'u lu'u ne, launukan su, zane da kayan aikin su basu da kama a duniya, wanda suka sami lambobin yabo na duniya da yawa.
Kyawawan sakamako
Tsarin bayani yana da matukar ban sha'awa da wahala. Mataki na farko ya kunshi tafasa ko matse zaren, ya danganta da tsarin da za a yi amfani da shi da kuma rebozo da za a yi; idan ‘maanshi ne’, za a tafasa zaren a cikin cakuda ruwa da ganye daban-daban, ciki har da mije, rosemary da zempatzuchitl, da sauran abubuwan da ake kishi a matsayin asirin dangi; ko 'niƙa' a sitaci, idan tsari ne na yau da kullun.
Sa'annan ya zama dole kuyi yarn da yarn ɗin, sannan ku 'ɗaura a ƙwallo', ko kuma abin da muka sani na yin ƙwanƙwasa, a wannan lokacin masana suna rina yarn ɗin tare da dabaru daban-daban waɗanda za su ba da sifofin halaye daban-daban na samfurin shawl .
Mataki na gaba shine ɗayan mahimman mahimmanci: warping, wanda ya ƙunshi sanya zaren a kan mashi, don ganowa da tsara fasalin da jikin shawl ɗin zai sa. Wannan ya hada da, ban da layi, kare sassan da ba kwa son yin rini (kada a rude shi da rinayar data gabata).
Amma babu shakka mafi mahimmancin mahimmanci, tunda yawanci yana ƙayyade ingancin yanki, shine bayani game da rapacejo ko abin da zamu iya kira gefen shawl, wanda shine ɓangaren da ke ɗaukar mafi rikitarwa aiki kuma ana iya tsawanta tsawon lokacinsa har zuwa kwanaki 30. Wannan za'a iya kulla shi ko a sa shi a jiki, kuma zai iya nuna frets, haruffa ko adadi; A yau zamu iya samun salo na jarana, grid ko petatillo.
