Maciji mai ma'aunin kayan lambu yana tare da mu. Waɗannan tsaunuka ne waɗanda suke neman cinye hanya: drawnarfinsu wanda ba shi da ƙarfi an ja shi zuwa sama wanda ba girgije ba kuma rana tana ƙona filayen narkakken ciyawa wanda ya isa ƙasan tsaunukan a cikin koren raƙuman ruwa.
Wannan ita ce hanyar datti inda masanin binciken kayan tarihi Fernando Miranda, daga Cibiyar Yankin INAH na Veracruz, ke jagorantar mu zuwa ɗayan wurare masu tsarki na Totonacs.
Murmushin gumakan yumbu, wanda da yawa daga cikinsu suka fito daga ƙasa a cikin wannan yanki, da alama yana nunawa a cikin tsananin nishaɗin. Ana tsinkayar sautin sa a tsakanin gushin iska mai ɗumi, kuma yana gaya mana cewa mutanen da suka zauna a kwarin da muka tsallake dole ne sun sami 'yan gazawa: saboda wannan dalili ragowar suna nuna fuskokin da suka rasa wani tsaurin ra'ayi kuma hoton mutane ne koyaushe suna cikin farin ciki, wanda tabbas waƙa da rawa suna tare a kowane lokaci. Muna cikin kwarin Atoyac, kusa da garin suna iri ɗaya a cikin jihar Veracruz.
Motar ta tsaya sai Fernando ya nuna mana hanyar zuwa rafi. Dole ne mu ƙetare shi. Bayan mai binciken ilimin kimiya na kayan tarihi, wanda ya gudanar da aikin hakowa da yawa a yankin, mun isa ga wani gungumen azaba da ake amfani da ita a matsayin gada. Idan muka dube shi, muna shakkar ikonmu na daidaitawa a kan irin wannan ƙaramin kuma marar daidaito. Kuma ba wai faɗuwar tana da haɗari ba, amma tana nufin za a dakatar da komai da kayan aikin hoto, zuwa wani tafki mara zurfin da ba shi da tabbas. Jagoranmu yana ba mu tabbaci yayin da yake ɗaukar doguwar tafiya daga cikin ciyawar, ya gabatar da shi cikin ruwa kuma, ya dogara da wannan reshe - wanda ba shi da matsala maimakon shingen jirgin ruwa - yana nuna mana hanya mafi aminci don ƙetarewa. Ramin da ke gefe na gefe ya shiga sanyin gonakin kofi masu inuwa koyaushe, wanda ya bambanta da rana mai zafi na filayen ciyawa da ke kusa. Ba da daɗewa ba muka isa bakin kogin da yake da shuɗi mai shuɗi wanda ba shi da kyau tsakanin katako, lili da duwatsu masu kaifi. Bayan haka, an sake ganin tsaunukan ƙaramin sarkar, suna sanar da manyan ƙwanƙolin tsarin tsaunuka na tsakiyar Meziko.
A karshe mun isa inda muke. Abin da aka gabatar a gaban idanunmu ya wuce bayanan da aka yi na wannan wuri cike da sihiri. A wani ɓangare ya tunatar da ni game da takaddun Yucatan; duk da haka, akwai wani abu da ya sanya shi daban. Ya zama mini kamar ainihin hoton Tlalocan kuma tun daga wannan ba ni da shakku cewa wuri kamar wannan shi ne wanda ya ba da shawarar dabarun zamanin Hispanic na wani nau'in aljanna inda ruwa ke kwararowa daga hanjin tsaunuka. A can kowane haɗari, kowane fasali na yanayi ya sami daidaitattun allahntaka. Yankuna kamar wannan tabbas sun sami matsala a cikin tunanin mutum don zama manyan shafuka: don sanya shi a cikin maganganun mahaifin mai hikima José Ma. Garibay, zai zama labarin Tamoanchan wanda emsan waƙoƙin Nahua ke magana game da shi, shafin kifin jade inda furannin suna tsaye tsayi, inda lili masu daraja suke tohowa. A can ana raira waƙar a tsakanin ganshin ruwa kuma abubuwa masu fa'ida da yawa suna sa kiɗan ya girgiza a kan gashin gashin turquoise na ruwa, a yayin da ake ta faman buɗe ido.
Ayoyin Nahua da ra'ayoyi game da aljanna sun haɗu, a asalin asalin kogin Atoyac, ta hanyar binciken archaeological. Shekaru da suka wuce, malami Francisco Beverido, daga Cibiyar Nazarin Anthropology na Jami'ar Veracruzana, ya gaya mani yadda ya jagoranci ceton wani maƙerin dutse mai tamani da aka sassaka wanda a yau yake kusa da shi, a cikin Gidan Tarihi na Córdoba, shafin da ya cancanci ziyarta. Bakin karkiyar an jefa ta hadaya ga allolin ruwa daga mutanen da ke zaune a kewayen. An gudanar da irin wannan bikin a cenotes Yucatecan, a cikin lago na Nevado de Toluca da kuma a wasu wurare inda aka bauta wa manyan gumakan Mesoamerican pantheon. Zamu iya yin tunanin firistoci da ministoci a bakin tafkin a lokacin da, a cikin manyan littattafan katako na turaren ƙona turare, suka jefa kyawawan hadayu a cikin ruwa yayin da suke tambayar allahn ciyawar shekara mai kyau don amfanin.
Ba mu yi tsayayya da jaraba ba kuma muka yi tsalle cikin ruwa. Hasken ruwan sanyi, yanayin zafinsa ya kusan 10ºC, ya kara karfi saboda tsananin zafin da ya sanya mu zuffa gabaɗaya. Wurin tabkin dole ne yakai zurfin zurfin 8m a cikin zurfin wuri kuma ganuwa ba zata wuce 2m ba, saboda kurar da ruwan ke ɗaukewa daga cikin tsaunin. Babban dutsen da yake fitowa daga ciki yana kama da manyan muƙamuƙi. Wannan hoton iri daya ne na Altépetl na codices, inda rafi ke gudana daga ginshikin tsaunin ta hanyar wani irin bakin. Ya zama kamar muƙamuƙin Tlaloc, allahn ƙasa da ruwa, ɗayan mahimman lambobi da tsoffin lambobi a Mesoamerica. Ya yi kama da bakin wannan allahn, wanda ke malalo da ruwa daidai. Caso ya gaya mana cewa shine "wanda ke tsiro" wani abu wanda yafi bayyane a cikin hanyoyin Atoyac. Kasancewa a wannan wurin kamar zuwa asalin asalin tatsuniyoyi ne, ra'ayin duniya da kuma addinin pre-Hispanic.
Yankin, yana da daraja tunawa, yana zaune ne ta hanyar al'adun wakilci na gabar Tekun Mexico a lokacin Classic. Yaren da suka yi magana a wannan lokacin ba a san shi ba, amma babu shakka suna da alaƙa da magina El Tajín. Totonacs sun bayyana cewa sun isa yankin a ƙarshen zamanin gargajiya da farkon lokacin Post-Classic. Tsakanin rairayin bakin teku na Tekun Mexico da tuddai na farko na Transversal Volcanic Axis, wani yanki ya faɗi wanda dukiyarta ta ɗabi'a ta jawo hankalin mutum tun lokacin da ya fara jin abin da muka sani a yau a matsayin yankin Mexico. Aztec sun kira shi Totonacapan: ƙasar kulawa, wato, wurin da abinci yake. Lokacin da yunwa ta tashi a cikin Altiplano, rundunonin Moctecuhzoma el Huehue ba su yi jinkirin cin waɗannan ƙasashen ba; wannan ya faru ne a tsakiyar karni na 15. Yankin zai kasance a ƙarƙashin shugaban Cuauhtocho, wani yanki na kusa, kuma a bankunan Atoyac, wanda har yanzu yana kiyaye wata hasumiya - sansanin soja da ya mamaye kogin.
Wuri ne inda launi da haske ke shashi azanci, amma kuma, lokacin da arewa ta faɗo gabar Tekun Mexico, to ita ce Atlayahuican, yankin da ake ruwan sama da hazo.
Tare da wannan danshi da ke toshe tsofaffi, za a iya ɗaukar hoton a koyaushe koren. Atoyac ya fito ne daga duhun kogon dutse, daga cikin hanjin cikin tsauni. Ruwan ya fito da haske kuma hanzarin halin yana ci gaba, kamar macijin turquoise, wani lokacin tsakanin tashin hankali mai karfi, zuwa Cotaxtla, kogin da ke zama mai faɗi da nutsuwa. Kilomita daya kafin isa bakin tekun, zai haɗu da Jamapa, a cikin gundumar Boca del Río, Veracruz. Daga can dukansu suna ci gaba da bakinsu a cikin Chalchiuhcuecan, tekun abokin Tláloc, na allahiyar ruwa. Maraice yana faɗuwa lokacin da muka yanke shawarar yin ritaya. Har ila yau muna lura da gangaren tsaunuka cike da ciyayi masu zafi. A cikinsu bugun rayuwa kamar ranar farko ta duniya.
Source: Mexico da ba a sani ba A'a. 227 / Janairu 1996
