Yankakken, ɗayan tufafin gargajiyar maza na Meziko na gargajiya, ya ƙunshi bayani dalla-dalla, rarrabawa, kasuwanci da kuma amfani da shi, ba wai kawai takamaiman yanayin zamantakewar tattalin arziki da fasaha ba, har ma da abubuwan da duniya ke fuskanta waɗanda masaku ke dulmuyarsu, ta hanyar na zane da kuma zane na yadudduka.
Za a iya bin diddigin tarihin daskararre ta hanyar samar da auduga da ulu, kayan karafa wadanda ake hada su da su, da kuma kasancewarsa a cikin mazaunin trousseau.
Wannan tufa ana yin ta ne a yankuna daban-daban na kasar, don haka aka sanya ta da sunaye daban-daban; wadanda aka fi sani sune umarnin, babban riga, jaket, jorongo, auduga, bargo da bargo.
Yankewa suttura ce ta musamman wacce take haɗa al'adun masaka ta Mesoamerican da Turai. Daga farkon ya fara amfani da auduga, dyes da zane; daga na biyu, hanyar shirya ulu har zuwa taron dako; Ci gabanta da bunƙasa sun faru a cikin ƙarni na 18 da 19, lokacin da aka yi su da inganci mai ban mamaki (saboda dabara, launi da zane da aka yi amfani da su) a cikin bita da yawa a cikin jihohin Zacatecas, Coahuila, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Querétaro, Puebla da Tlaxcala.
A karnin da ya gabata shine tufafin peons, mahayan dawakai, karusai, leperos da kuma mutanen gari. Wadannan kananan akwatinan da aka kera a cikin gida sun banbanta da kayan sarauta masu kayatarwa wadanda masu gidaje da 'yan boko ke sanyawa a wajen biki, a saraos, a kan Paseo de la Viga, a cikin Alameda, kamar yadda masu zane, matafiya, suka fasalta su kuma suka zana su. 'yan ƙasa da baƙi, waɗanda ba za su iya tserewa larurar launinta da zane ba.
Yankin na biye da maharan, Chinacos da Silvers; kun ga masu kishin kasa a yakin da ake yi da mamayar Amurka ko Faransa; Alkawarin ne na masu sassaucin ra'ayi, masu ra'ayin mazan jiya da kuma jaraba ga sarki.
A cikin gwagwarmayar masu neman sauyi tuta ce, mafaka a sansanin, mayafin waɗanda suka faɗi a fagen daga. Alamar Mexican lokacin da sauƙaƙa sauƙaƙa ya zama dole: tare da sombrero da serape ne kawai, an bayyana Mexico, a ciki da wajen kan iyakokinmu.
Wankewa, wanda yake daidai da rebozo a cikin mata, yana aiki a matsayin sutura, a matsayin matashin kai, bargo da shimfiɗar shimfiɗa a daren sanyi a tsaunuka da hamada; ingantaccen kabet a cikin Jaripeos, rigar kariya don ruwan sama.
Saboda kyawun fasahar saƙar sa, launinta da ƙirarta, ana nuna ɗabi'a mai kyau ko a ƙafa ko akan doki. Lanƙwasa a kan kafaɗa, yana ƙawata wanda yake rawa, ɓoye kalmomin soyayya na masoya, tare da su cikin serenades; An gabatar dashi ne ga amare da kuma shimfiɗar jariri ga yaron.
Yayin da amfani da tufafi da masana'antu ke fitarwa ya zama sananne, satar kange daga birni zuwa ƙauye, zuwa wuraren da karusai da mahayan dawakai suke sawa da kuma inda tsofaffin mutane ke ƙin barin su. A cikin birane yana ƙawata ganuwar da benaye; Yana sanya gidaje inda aka zaba su azaman zaren tebur ko mai kwalliya, kuma hakan yana bayar da yanayi ga shagulgula da "daren Mexico". A ƙarshe, ɓangare ne na tufafin masu rawa da mariachis wanda a cikin murabba'ai suke tare da sanyin safiyar waɗanda ke yin bikin wani abu, ko kuma watakila manta da abin takaici.
A halin yanzu ana iya yin su ta hanyar masana'antu tare da injina masu ƙwarewa sosai, ko kuma a cikin bita inda masu sana'a ke aiki a kan katako na katako, da kuma na cikin gida, a mashin ɗin baya. Wannan shine, tare da samar da kayan masarufi da kuma yawan kwadago na aiki, sauran masu sana'o'in hannu da na dangi suna tare wanda har yanzu yana kiyaye tsohuwar sana'ar aski.
Ana sanin samfuran don fasahar su, ƙirar su da ingancin su, kuma an shirya su ne don wata kasuwa daban, walau ta gari, yanki ko ƙasa. Misali, launuka masu launuka iri daban-daban da aka samar a Chiauhtempan da Contla, Tlaxcala, yanki ne na asali a cikin kayan "Parachicos", 'yan rawa daga Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas. Ana sayar da jorongos din ga masu yawon bude ido a ciki da wajen kasar a shagunan da suka kware a sana'o'in Mexico. Farashinta ya dogara da nau'ikan samarwa da albarkatun da aka yi amfani da su a masana'anta.
Saboda kasancewar sa cikin kayan maza, ta hanyar tarihi da kuma yanayin yadudduka na kasar mu, masu binciken na Ethnography Subdirectorate na National Museum of Anthropology sun gudanar da aikin tattara jorongos daga jihohi daban-daban na Jamhuriyar, da aka yi a cikin al'ummomin da ke da dadaddiyar al'adar masaku ko a wuraren da baƙin haure ke hayayyafa da nau'ikan aiki irin na asalin wurarensu.
Tarin sarapes a cikin National Museum of Anthropology sun hada da dabarun kera kere-kere da salo; kowannensu yana da halaye da ke ba mu damar sanin daga inda ya fito. Misali, jerin launuka masu launuka da yawa sun sa muyi tunanin masana'anta daga SaltiIlo, Coahuila; Aguascalientes; Teocaltiche, Jalisco, da Chiauhtempan, Tlaxcala. Aikin rikitarwa cikin saƙa yana nufin mu San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; San Luis Potosi; Xonacatlán, San Pedro Temoaya da Coatepec Harinas, Jihar Mexico; Jocotepec da Encarnación de Díaz, Jalisco; Los Reyes, Hidalgo; Coroneo da San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
Masu saƙa ɗin da suka kwafi hotuna da shimfidar wurare a cikin manyan riguna suna aiki a Guadalupe, Zacatecas; San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; Tlaxiaco da Teotitlán deI Valle, Oaxaca. A ƙarshen wuri kuma a cikin Santa Ana deI Valle, Oaxaca, suma suna amfani da zaren da aka rina tare da dyes na halitta kuma suna yin zane-zanen sanannun marubuta.
Abu ne na yau da kullun ga abubuwan da aka sanya a kan looms na baya sun kunshi zane-zane guda biyu, waɗanda aka haɗa su da irin wannan ƙwarewar har suke kama da ɗaya, kodayake waɗanda aka yi a dunkulen gungumen wuri ɗaya suke. Kodayake ana saka sarapes na bangare biyu akan mashinan feda, amma gabaɗaya ana yin yadudduka a kan wannan na'urar. A wannan yanayin, hunchback an bude shi ta inda kai ya wuce kuma zane ya zame har kafadu. Wannan yanki da ƙananan ɓangaren suttura ita ce wacce aka fi so don yin zane-zane da yawa. An mirgine tukwici; a wasu wurare ana amfani da su don yin ɗamara, kuma a wasu wurare suna ƙara iyakar da aka ƙulla da ƙugiya.
A cikin samar da sarape, a cikin kabilu daban-daban na ƙasar abubuwa da yawa na gargajiya ana kiyaye su yayin aikin juyawa, rini da saƙar ulu ko auduga, a cikin zane da kayan aikin. Na yarn mai kyau a ulu sune sararin Coras da Huichols, da waɗanda aka yi a Coatepec Harinas da Donato Guerra, Jihar Mexico; Jalacingo, Veracruz; Charapan da Paracho, Michoacán; Hueyapan, Morelos, da Chicahuaxtla, Oaxaca.
Waɗannan daga San Pedro Mixtepec, San Juan Guivine da Santa Catalina Zhanaguía, Oaxaca, an yi su ne da ulu da chichicaztle, zaren kayan lambu wanda ke ba wa jorongos launin kore da kauri da nauyi. A cikin Zinacantán, Chiapas, maza suna sanya auduga (kolera), wadda aka saka da zaren fari da ja, wanda aka yi masa ado da zane iri-iri.
Omyallen baya yana dacewa tsakanin Tzotzil, Tzeltal, Nahua, Mixes, Huaves, Otomi, Tlapaneca, Mixtec da Zapotec masaka. Gwanin Chamula da Tenejapa, Chiapas, suna da kyau; Chachahuantla da Naupan, Puebla; Hueyapan, Morelos; Santa María Tlahuitontepec, San Mateo deI Mar, Oaxaca; Santa Ana Hueytlalpan, Hidalgo; Jiquipilco, Jihar Mexico; Apetzuca, Guerrero, da Cuquila, Tlaxiaco da Santa María Quiatoni, Oaxaca.
Rukunin gungumen azaba da matan Yaqui, Mayos, da matan Rrámuri suka yi amfani da shi a arewacin kasar, ya kunshi katako guda hudu da aka binne; Lissafin da ke ba da izinin tsarin masana'anta da kuma samar da sarapes a Masiaca, Sonora da Urique, Chihuahua, an ƙetare su.
Ana yin amfani da feda ɗaya ne da itace; ana amfani dashi don yin girma girma da sauri kuma don maimaita alamu da kayan ado; Hakanan, yana ba da damar haɗa fasahar zamani. Daga cikin wadataccen kayan sarrafawa, wadanda suka fito daga Malinaltepec, Guerrero; Tlacolula, Oaxaca; Santiago Tianguistenco, Jihar Meziko; Bernal, Querétaro, da El Cardonal, Hidalgo.
A Saltillo yankakken
Ana la'akari da cewa a cikin ƙarni na goma sha takwas da rabi na farko na goma sha tara, an yi mafi kyaun jorongos, waɗanda ake kira da "tsofaffi" don kammala da dabarar da aka samu a ƙera su.
Al'adar saƙa a kan kayan kwalliyar ta fito ne daga Tlaxcalans, ƙawancen Spanishan Masarautar Sifen a mulkin mallaka na arewacin ƙasar, waɗanda ke zaune a wasu yankuna na Querétaro, San Luis Potosí, Coahuila, da Taos, da Rio Grande Valley da San Antonio, na yanzu Amurka ta Arewacin Amurka.
Kasancewar wuraren kiwon shanu a cikin wadannan yankuna ya tabbatar da albarkatun kasa da kasuwar wannan rigar, wacce ta zama kayan da aka fi so da wadanda ke halartar baje kolin a wadancan shekarun a garin Saltillo. Daga wannan birni da aka sani da "Mabudin zuwa Cikin landasar," 'yan kasuwa suna kawo yanki na musamman zuwa wasu kasuwannin: bikin Apache a Taos da na San Juan de los Lagos, Jalapa da Acapulco.
A lokacin mulkin mallaka, birane da yawa suna gasa tare da sarapes da ake yi a Saltillo kuma, da kaɗan kaɗan, ana danganta wannan sunan da wani salon wanda ke da kyakkyawar fasaha, launi da zane.
Koyaya, sauye-sauyen siyasa da suka wakana bayan samun Yancin kai sun tayar da hankalin duk rayuwar tattalin arzikin ƙasar. Rashin amfanin gona ya shafi dabbobi, da rashin tsaro a kan hanyoyi, farashin ulu da na sarape, wanda wasu ‘yan kasa ne kawai za su iya saya da nuna su a Paseo de la Villa da Alameda a cikin gari. daga Meziko. Theofofin buɗewar ƙasa suna ba da izinin zuwan Turawa da yawa waɗanda da idanun mamaki suka ga rairayin bakin teku, shimfidar wurare, birane da mata na terracotta da baƙin ido. Daga cikin sutturar maza, satar polychrome ta Saltillo ta jawo hankali, ta yadda har masu fasaha irin su Nebel, Linati, Pingret, Rugendas da Egerton suka kama shi a cikin wasu zane-zane da zane-zane daban-daban. Hakazalika, marubuta kamar Marquesa Calderón de Ia Barca, Ward, Lyon da Mayer sun bayyana shi a cikin littattafan Turai da na Meziko da jaridu. Masu zane-zane na ƙasa ma ba sa tsere wa tasirinsa: Casimiro Castro da Tomás Arrieta sun ba da hotunan Iito da zane-zane da yawa a gare shi; A nasu bangare, Payno, García Cubas da Prieto sun ba da shafuka da yawa.
A cikin gwagwarmayar rabuwa da Texas (1835), sojojin Mexico sun sa sarape a kan tufafinsu marasa kyau, wanda ya bambanta da na shugabanninsu, irin wanda Janar Santa Anna ya sa kuma ya rasa. Wannan kwanan wata da na yaƙin da aka yi da Amurka (1848), sun kasance cikin aminci da kwanan wata wasu salo na ɓarke, kuma abubuwan da ke cikin ƙirar suna ba da izinin layin juyin halitta cikin ƙarnuka na Mulkin. Gasar da aka ambata a baya tana da ma'anar ƙimar samar da sarape waɗanda sojoji suka ɗauka don kawata gidajensu, da na budurwa, 'yan'uwa mata da uwaye.
Yaƙe-yaƙe, gina layin dogo da ci gaban Monterrey sun shafi baƙon Saltillo kuma suna ƙayyade abubuwan da ke haifar da koma baya game da bayyana cikakken kayan zane a wannan garin.
Yankin Saltillo sai ya bi hanyoyin arewa. Navajos sun koyi amfani da ulu da kuma sakar sarapes a cikin Rio Grande Valley, Arizona, da Valle Redondo, New Mexico, a cikin sifa da salon Saltillo. Wani tasirin da alama ana samun sa a cikin wasu yadudduka a cikin ƙasar, misali a cikin Aguascalientes da San Miguel de Allende; duk da haka, waɗanda aka yi a ƙarnukan da aka ambata sun bambanta. Sarapes din da ake kira Saltillo wadanda aka yi a wasu garuruwa a cikin jihar Tlaxcala, da kuma a San Bernardino Contla, San Miguel Xaltipan, Guadalupe Ixcotla, Santa Ana Chiautempan da San Rafael Tepatlaxco, daga ƙananan hukumomin Juan Cuamatzi da Chiautempan, na manyan darajar sana'a.
Kyakkyawar suturar da ta wuce iyakokinmu, da kuma girmamawar da mutanen Meziko suke da ita ga al'adunsu, sun sa raunin ya ci gaba: a matsayin tufafi mai amfani kuma a matsayin alama ta al'ada.
Source: Mexico a Lokaci Na 8 Agusta-Satumba 1995
