Bi tarihin babban rangadi na jihohi daban-daban ta keke!
SAN LUIS POTOSI
Mun wuce tsaunuka, amma munyi kuskure da tunanin cewa saboda wannan dalilin wannan bangare zai fi sauki. Gaskiyar magana ita ce babu titunan tituna; ta mota hanyar ta miƙa zuwa sararin sama kuma tana da faɗi, amma ta keke zaka fahimci cewa koyaushe zaka sauka ko sama; kuma nisan kilomita 300 daga San Luis Potosí zuwa Zacatecas suna daga cikin mafi tsananin tafiyar. Kuma ya banbanta yayin da kake da hawa kamar a duwatsu, ka ɗauki kari kuma ka san cewa zaka wuce shi, amma tare da juyawa ƙasa kaɗan kaɗan kuma ka yi gumi tare da tashi, da sake, da sake.
ZACATECAS
Amma ladar ta kasance babba, saboda akwai wani abu da ba za a iya misaltawa a cikin yanayin wannan yanki na kasar ba, kuma budewar fili ya gayyace ka ka saki jiki. Kuma faduwar rana! Ba na cewa faɗuwar rana ba ta da kyau a wasu wurare, amma a wannan yankin sun zama maɗaukakan lokuta; Suna sa ku daina yin tanti ko abinci kuma ku tsaya don cika kanku da wannan hasken, tare da iska, tare da duk yanayin da yake gaishe Allah da godiya ga rai.
DURANGO
A nannade cikin wannan shimfidar wuri muka ci gaba zuwa garin Durango, zango don jin daɗin kyakkyawan ɗawainiya da kwanciyar hankali na Sierra de Órganos. A gefen gari, ma'aunin zafi da sanyio ya faɗi ƙasa da sifili (-5) a karo na farko, yana yin sanyi a kan gidajen alfarwansu, yana sa mu gwada karin kumallo na daskarewa na farko da kuma nuna mana farkon abin da ke jiran mu a Chihuahua.
A cikin Durango mun canza hanya muna bin shawara madaidaiciya kan hanyoyin da muka karɓa (baƙon abu daga matafiyin dan Italiya, kuma maimakon hawa tsakanin tsaunuka zuwa Hidalgo del Parral, sai muka nufi Torreón a kan wata madaidaiciyar hanya, tare da iska cikin ni'ima da cikin a cikin kyawawan shimfidar wurare, aljanna ga masu tuka keke.
COAHUILA
Torreón ya karbe mu tare da aikin hajji na Budurwar Guadalupe da kuma budaddiyar zuciyar dangin Samia, tare da raba gidansu da rayukansu tare da mu na daysan kwanaki, yana ƙarfafa imaninmu game da kyautatawa mutanen Meziko da kyawawan al'adun gidanmu. .
Daga Durango danginmu suka ba mu rahoton yanayin garin Chihuahua, kuma da muryar damuwa sai suka ce mana darasi 10 a tsaunuka, ko kuma an yi dusar ƙanƙara a Ciudad Juárez. Sun yi mamakin yadda za mu yi da sanyi kuma, faɗin gaskiya, haka mu ma. Shin tufafin da muka kawo zasu wadatar? Ta yaya kuke taka ƙasan ƙasa da digiri 5? Me zai faru idan dusar ƙanƙara a cikin tsaunuka?: Tambayoyin da ba mu iya amsawa ba.
Kuma tare da dan Mexico sosai "da kyau bari mu ga abin da ya fito", muna ci gaba da bugawa. Nisan da ke tsakanin garuruwa ya ba mu mamaki na yin zango a arewa, tsakanin cacti, kuma washegari an caje ƙaya da fiye da ɗaya fashewar taya. Mun farka ƙasa da sifili, tukunyar ruwa sun yi kankara, amma kwanakin sun bayyana kuma da sanyin safiya yanayin zafin nama ya dace. Kuma ya kasance a ɗayan waɗancan ranakun masu annuri ne muka sami nasarar wuce kilomita 100 cikin kwana ɗaya. Dalilin biki!
CHIHUAHUA
Mun kasance muna iyo. Lokacin da mutum ya bi zuciyarsa, farin ciki yana haskakawa kuma ana haifar da amincewa, kamar yadda aka yi wa Dona Dolores, wanda ya nemi izini don taɓa ƙafafunmu, tare da murmushi mai ban tsoro a leɓenta kuma yana ƙarfafa 'yan mata a cikin gidan abincin su yi haka: Dole ne ku yi amfani da shi! ”Ya gaya mana yayin da muke dariya, da wannan murmushin muka shiga cikin garin Chihuahua.
Da muke so mu raba tafiyarmu, sai muka tunkari jaridun biranen da ke kan hanyarmu kuma labarin da ke cikin jaridar Chihuahua ya ɗauki hankalin mutane. Peoplearin mutane sun yi mana maraba a kan hanya, wasu suna jiranmu mu ratsa garinsu har ma sun nemi mu yi rubutun.
Ba mu san inda za mu shiga ba, mun ji an rufe hanyoyi saboda dusar ƙanƙara da yanayin zafi na ƙasa da 10. Mun ɗauka za mu je arewa ne mu tsallaka ta gefen Agua Prieta, amma ya fi haka kuma akwai dusar ƙanƙara da yawa; ta hanyar Nuevo Casas Grandes ya fi guntu amma ya yi yawa a kan gangaren tsaunuka; Don Basaseachic yanayin zafi ya debe digiri 13. Mun yanke shawarar komawa kan hanyar asali kuma mu tsallaka zuwa Hermosillo ta Basaseachic; A kowane hali, mun yi niyyar hawa zuwa Creel da Canyon Copper.
"Duk inda suke a lokacin Kirsimeti, can za mu same su," dan uwan Marcela ya gaya mini. Mun yanke shawara cewa zai kasance Creel kuma ya isa can tare da ɗan dan uwana Mauro da abincin dare na Kirsimeti a cikin akwatunansa: romeritos, cod, punch, har ma da ɗan itaciya tare da komai da komai!, Kuma sun yi bikin Kirsimeti cikakke a tsakiyar debe digiri 13 da cike da dumin gida.
Dole ne mu yi ban kwana da wannan dumi dangin sannan mu nufi tsaunuka; Kwanaki sun kasance a sarari kuma babu sanarwar wani dusar ƙanƙara, kuma dole ne muyi amfani da ita, don haka muka nufi kusan tsaunuka kusan kilomita 400 da muke buƙatar isa Hermosillo.
A cikin tunani akwai ta'aziyya na isa tsakiyar tafiya, amma don ƙafafun kafa dole ne ku yi amfani da ƙafafunku - wannan kyakkyawan riko ne tsakanin hankali da jiki - kuma ba su ba da. Kwanaki a cikin tsaunuka kamar su ne ƙarshen tafiya. Duwatsu suna ta bayyana a jere. Abinda kawai ya inganta shine zafin jiki, mun gangara zuwa gaɓar tekun kuma da alama dai sanyi yana wanzuwa a tsawan tsaunuka. Muna zuwa kasan abubuwa, da gaske an kashe, lokacin da muka sami wani abu da ya canza tunaninmu. Ya gaya mana game da wani mai keke da yake hawa kan duwatsu, ko da yake da farko ba mu san yadda zai taimaka mana ba.
Dogaye kuma siriri, Tom shine shahararren ɗan masanin Kanada wanda ke tafiya cikin duniya ba tare da gaggawa ba. Amma ba fasfon sa bane ya canza halin da muke ciki. Tom ya rasa hannun hagunsa shekarun baya.
Tun bayan hatsarin, bai bar gida ba, amma ranar ta zo lokacin da ya yanke shawarar hawa keke da hawa hanyoyin wannan nahiya.
Mun dade muna tattaunawa; Muna ba shi ruwa mun yi ban kwana. Lokacin da muka fara ba mu ƙara jin wannan ƙaramin ciwo ba, wanda yanzu ya zama ba shi da muhimmanci, kuma ba mu ji gajiya ba. Bayan ganawa da Tom mun daina yin gunaguni.
SONORA
Bayan kwana biyu aka gama aikin zaban. Bayan kwanaki 12 mun ratsa kowane mita na kilomita 600 na Saliyo Madre Bala'i. Mutane sun ji muna ihu kuma ba su fahimta ba, amma dole ne mu yi murna, kodayake ba ma kawo kuɗi.
Mun isa Hermosillo kuma abin da muka fara yi, bayan mun ziyarci bankin, shi ne mu sayi cream-mun ci huɗu kowannensu - kafin ma mu yi tunanin inda za mu kwana.
Sun yi hira da mu a rediyo na gida, sun sanya labarinmu a cikin jarida sannan kuma sihirin mutane ya lullube mu. Mutanen Sonora sun ba mu zukatansu. A cikin Caborca, Daniel Alcaráz da danginsa sun karbe mu sarai, kuma sun ba mu rayuwarsu tare da mu, suna mai da mu wani bangare na murnar haihuwar daya daga cikin jikokinsu ta hanyar sanya mana sunayen baffannin sabon dan gidan. Wanda ke tattare da wannan dumi na ɗan adam, ya huta kuma da cikakkiyar zuciya, mun sake hawa kan hanya.
Arewacin jihar ma suna da abubuwan birgewa, kuma ba wai kawai ina magana ne game da kyawawan mata ba, amma game da sihirin hamada. Anan ne inda zafin kudu da arewacin golf suka sami ma'ana. Mun shirya tafiya don ƙetare hamada a cikin hunturu, tserewa daga zafin rana da macizai. Amma kuma ba zai zama 'yanci ba, kuma dole ne mu tura iska, wanda a wannan lokacin yana hurawa sosai.
Wani kalubale a arewa shine tazara tsakanin birni da birni -150, 200 km-, saboda banda yashi da cacti akwai ɗan abin ci idan akwai gaggawa. Maganin: ɗora abubuwa da yawa. Abinci na kwana shida da lita 46 na ruwa, wanda yake da sauƙi, har sai kun fara ja.
Hawan bagadi yana da tsayi sosai kuma ruwa, kamar haƙuri, yana ta raguwa. Kwanaki ne masu wahala, amma kyawawan kyan gani, dunes da faɗuwar rana sun ƙarfafa mu. Sun kasance matakan kebewa, sun maida hankali akan mu hudu, amma don isa San Luis Río Colorado, tuntuɓar mutane ya dawo cikin ƙungiyar masu kekuna waɗanda ke dawowa da babbar mota daga wata gasa a Hermosillo. Murmushi, musafiha da alherin Margarito Contreras wanda ya ba mu gidansa da kwandon burodi lokacin da muka isa Mexicali.
Kafin in tashi daga bagaden, na rubuta abubuwa da yawa game da hamada a cikin littafin tarihi na: “… akwai rai kawai a nan, muddin dai zuciya ta nemi hakan”; ... mun yi imanin cewa wuri ne mara kyau, amma a cikin natsuwarsa rayuwa tana girgiza ko'ina ”.
Mun isa San Luis Río Colorado a gajiye; Saboda hamada ta kwace mana karfi sosai, sai muka tsallaka birni shiru, kusan bakin ciki, muna neman wurin yin zango.
BAJA KALIFOFI
Barin San Luis Río Colorado sai muka tarar da alamar da ke ba da sanarwar cewa mun riga mun kasance a Baja California. A halin yanzu, ba tare da kasancewa mai hankali a tsakaninmu ba, muna cikin farin ciki, mun fara takun saka kamar ranar ta fara kuma da ihu muna murna cewa mun riga mun wuce jihohi 121 daga cikin 14 na hanyarmu.
Barin Mexicali yana da ƙarfi ƙwarai, saboda a gabanmu La Rumorosa ne. Tun da muka fara tafiyar sai suka ce mana: "Ee, a'a, gara mu tsallaka ta San Felipe." Ya kasance katon mutum da aka halicce shi a cikin zuciyarmu, kuma yanzu rana ta zo ta fuskance shi. Mun yi lissafin kimanin awanni shida don tashi, don haka muka tashi da wuri. Awanni uku da mintina goma sha biyar daga baya mun kasance a saman.
Yanzu haka ne, Baja California ba ta da ƙarfi. 'Yan sanda na tarayya sun ba mu shawarar mu kwana a can, saboda iskar Santa Ana tana kadawa da ƙarfi kuma haɗari ne a bin babbar hanya. Washegari mun tashi zuwa Tecate, mun sami wasu manyan motoci da iska ta birkice daga yammacin da ta gabata.
Ba mu da ikon sarrafa kekunan, wanda wani abu da ba a gani ya tura mu, ba zato ba tsammani turawa daga dama, wani lokacin daga hagu. A lokuta biyu an cire ni daga hanya, gaba ɗaya ban iya sarrafawa ba.
Toari da ƙarfin yanayi, waɗanda suke da sha'awa, muna da matsaloli masu mahimmanci game da ɗaukar tirelolin. A lokacin da suka isa Ensenada tuni sun yi tsawa kamar gyada. Babu bangaren da muke bukata. Al'amarin rashin ci gaba ne - kamar kowane irin abu a wannan tafiyar - saboda haka munyi amfani da bugun dagawa daban, mun juya sandunan kuma mu sanya su cikin matsi, sanin cewa idan hakan ya faskara, zamu isa wurin. Composure ya ɗauki mu 'yan kwanaki, amma a nan ma an maraba da mu da hannu biyu biyu. Iyalin Medina Casas (kawun Alex) sun raba gidansu da farin cikinsu tare da mu.
Wani lokaci mukan yi tunani ko mun yi abin da ya cancanci abin da aka ba mu. Mutane sun bi da mu da irin wannan soyayyar na musamman wanda ya yi mini wuyar fahimta. Sun ba mu abinci. sana'a, hotuna harma da kudi. "Kar ka ce min a'a, karba, ina ba ka da zuciyata," wani mutum ya fada min wanda ya ba mu kudin fansa 400; a wani lokacin kuma, wani yaro ya miko min kwallan nasa: "Da fatan za a karɓa." Ba na so in bar shi ba tare da kwallon sa ba, ƙari kuma babu abin da yawa da za a yi da shi a kan babur; amma ruhun raba wani abu ne mai mahimmanci, kuma kwallon tana kan teburina, nan a gabana, yana tunatar da ni wadatar zuciyar Mexico.
Mun kuma sami wasu kyaututtuka, Kayla ta iso yayin da muke hutawa a garin Buena Vista -a garin kusa da babbar hanyar barin Ensenada-, yanzu muna da karnuka uku. Wataƙila tana da watanni biyu da haihuwa, ba a bayyana tserenta ba, amma tana da kwarkwasa, abokantaka da hankali har ba za mu iya tsayayya ba.
A hirar da suka gabata da suka yi da mu - a gidan talabijin na Ensenada - sun tambaye mu ko mun dauki yankin ne a matsayin mafi wahalar tafiyar. Ni, ba tare da sanin shi ba, na amsa a'a, kuma na yi kuskure ƙwarai. Mun sha wahala Baja. Saliyo bayan sirara, iska mai ƙetare, tazara mai nisa tsakanin gari da gari da zafin hamada.
Mun yi sa'a duk tafiyar, saboda yawancin mutane suna girmama mu a kan hanya (musamman direbobin manyan motoci, kodayake kuna iya tunanin ba haka ba), amma har yanzu muna ganin ta kusa sau da yawa. Akwai mutane da ba su da hankali a ko'ina, amma a nan sun kusan daidaita mu sau biyu. Mun yi sa'a mun kammala tafiyarmu ba tare da wata damuwa ko haɗari don nadama ba. Amma zai yi kyau ka fahimtar da mutane cewa sakan 15 na lokacinka ba shi da mahimmanci don sanya rayuwar wani (da karnukansu) cikin hadari.
A cikin sashin teku, hanyar da baƙi ke bi ta keke babu irin ta. Mun haɗu da mutane daga Italiya, Japan, Scotland, Jamus, Switzerland da Amurka. Mu baƙi ne, amma akwai wani abu da ya haɗa mu; Ba tare da wani dalili ba, an haifi abota, haɗin da ba za ku iya fahimta ba yayin da kuka yi tafiya da keke. Sun dube mu da mamaki, da yawa ga karnuka, da yawa don yawan nauyin da muka ja, amma ƙari don na Mexico. Mun kasance baƙi a cikin ƙasarmu; Sun yi sharhi: "Yana da cewa 'yan Mexico ba sa son yin irin wannan tafiya." Ee muna son shi, mun ga ruhun a duk faɗin ƙasar, ba mu ƙyale shi ya kyauta ba.
BAJA CALIFORNIA SOUTH
Lokaci ya wuce kuma mun ci gaba a tsakiyar wannan ƙasar. Mun kirga mun gama tafiyar a cikin watanni biyar kuma tuni ya zama na bakwai. Kuma ba wai babu kyawawan abubuwa bane, saboda yankin teku cike yake da su: mun yada zango a gaban faɗuwar rana ta Pacific, mun karɓi karimcin mutanen San Quintín da Guerrero Negro, mun je ganin whale a Ojo de Liebre lagoon kuma mu Munyi mamakin dazuzzuka masu haske da kwarin kyandirori, amma gajiyawarmu ba ta jiki ba ce, ta motsin rai ce, kuma lalacewar yankin larabawa ya taimaka kaɗan.
Mun riga mun wuce na ƙarshe na ƙalubalenmu, El Vizcaíno Desert, da sake ganin teku ya sake dawo mana da ɗan ruhun da aka bar mu tare da wani wuri a cikin hamada.
Mun ratsa ta Santa Rosalía, Mulegé, mashigar ruwa ta Concepción da Loreto, inda muka yi ban kwana da tekun muka nufi Ciudad Constitución. Tuni anan wani natsuwa mai annashuwa ya fara samuwa, jin cewa mun cimma shi, kuma mun hanzarta tafiya zuwa La Paz. Koyaya, hanyar ba zata bar mu mu tafi da sauƙi ba.
Mun fara samun matsaloli na kanikanci, musamman akan keken Alejandro, wanda yake ta faduwa bayan kilomita 7,000. Wannan ya haifar da rashin jituwa a tsakaninmu, kasancewar akwai ranakun da ya zama batun tafiya da babbar mota zuwa gari mafi kusa don gyara kekensa. Wannan na iya nufin cewa na jira awa takwas a cikin tsakiyar hamada. Zan iya jure hakan, amma da washegari ta sake yin aradu, sai na yi.
Mun tabbata cewa bayan rayuwa tare tsawon watanni bakwai muna tafiya, akwai hanyoyi biyu: ko dai mu shake wuya, ko kuma abota ta kara karfi. Abin farin ciki shine na biyu, kuma lokacin da ya fashe bayan fewan mintuna sai muka ƙare da dariya da barkwanci. An gyara matsalolin injina kuma mun bar La Paz.
Mun kasance kasa da mako guda daga burin. A Todos Santos mun sake saduwa da Peter da Petra, wasu ma'aurata Bajamushe waɗanda ke tafiya tare da karensu a kan babur ɗin Rasha daga Yaƙin Duniya na II, kuma a cikin yanayin ƙawancen da aka ji a kan hanya, mun je neman wuri a gaban zuwa bakin teku inda zango.
Daga jakunkunanmu sun fito da kwalbar jan giya da cuku, daga bisansu da alawar guava kuma daga dukkansu irin ruhun rabawar, na gatan da muke da shi na saduwa da mutanen ƙasarmu.
MAKASUDIN
Washegari mun gama tafiyarmu, amma ba mu kaɗai muka yi ba. Duk mutanen da suka bayyana mana mafarkinmu za su shiga Cabo San Lucas tare da mu; daga waɗanda suka buɗe mana gidansu kuma suka sanya mu ba tare da wani sharaɗi ba daga cikin danginsu, da waɗanda suke gefen hanya ko kuma daga taga motar su suka ba mu goyon bayansu cikin murmushi da raƙuman ruwa. Rannan na rubuta a cikin littafin tarihina: “Mutane suna kallonmu ta wucewa. ..Yaro suna mana kallon wadanda har yanzu suke imani da yan fashin teku. Mata suna duban mu da tsoro, wasu saboda mu baƙi ne, wasu kuma da damuwa, kamar yadda waɗanda suka kasance uwaye ne kawai ke yi; amma ba duk maza ne ke duban mu ba, waɗanda suke yi, ina tsammanin, kawai waɗanda ke da ƙarfin mafarki ne kawai ".
Daya, biyu, daya, biyu, daya feda a baya dayan. Ee, gaskiya ne: mun tsallaka Mexico da keke.
Source: Ba a san Mexico ba No. 309 / Nuwamba 2002
