Daidai da Tekun Caribbean, Riviera Maya ya faɗi sama da kilomita 180, daga Puerto Morelos zuwa Felipe Carrillo Puerto, wata al'umma mai cike da tarihi da wadatar ƙasa, inda a cikin rayuwar yau da kullun ta mazaunan ta da mahimmancin al'adun tsohuwar al'ada ce.
Tafiya cikin jihar Quintana Roo koyaushe yana kawo abubuwan mamaki, koda kuwa kun je arewa, inda fashewar alƙaluma da yawan saka hannun jari a otal ko wuraren sabis don baƙi sun bayyana, fiye da idan kun je kudu, kwanan nan sanyawa a cikin Riviera Maya, amma a cikin yankinsa, abin farin ciki, har yanzu akwai manyan wurare, kusan wuraren da ba'a binciko su ba, tare da yawon bude ido mara tasiri sosai kuma tare da al'ummomin da har yanzu suke kiyaye zamantakewar su da ingantacciyar kungiya cikin tsarin gargajiya. Godiya ga wannan, hanyar da ta bi ta wannan yankin na Mayan ta banbanta da wacce aka yi tun farko daga Puerto Morelos zuwa Tulum, babu shakka ta fi ta gari yawa.
HANYA TA FARA
Playa del Carmen na yi mana maraba da faɗuwar rana, kuma bayan mun zaɓi abin hawa mafi kyau don motsawa a kan hanya, muna neman otal inda za mu kwana a daren farko, don cajin batirinmu kuma mu tashi da wuri zuwa Felipe Carrillo Puerto, babban tasharmu. Mun zaɓi Maroma, tare da ɗakuna 57 kawai, wani masauki na baƙinsa a tsakiyar keɓantaccen bakin teku. A can, sa'a a gare mu a wannan cikakken daren muna shiga temazcal, wanka wanda ke tsarkake rai da jiki, inda a cikin awa ɗaya da rabi na al'ada ake ƙarfafa mahalarta su sadu da wata al'ada wacce tushenta ya zurfafa cikin al'adun tsoffin Mayan da Aztec, 'yan asalin Arewacin Amurka da al'adun Masar.
Ba a faɗi cewa farkon abin da safe ba a shirye muke mu ɗora mai a kusa da Playa del Carmen, sanannu a duk duniya duk da cewa ba su wuce mazauna 100,000 ba, kuma shugaban ƙaramar hukumar Solidaridad, wanda hakan ya ba da farin ciki ga wasu da kuma damuwar su. mahukunta suna da mafi girma yawan karuwar jama'a a Mexico, kimanin 23% a kowace shekara. A wannan lokacin zamu ci gaba, kodayake me yasa musun shi, muna da sha'awar tsayawa a ɗayan wuraren abubuwan sha'awa waɗanda ake tallata su a kan hanya, ya zama sanannen wurin shakatawa na kimiyyar faɗin ƙasa na Xcaret ko Punta Venado, makoma mai faɗi da Hekta 800 na gandun daji da kilomita hudu na rairayin bakin teku.
A BAYA NA KWANA
Mun mika wuya ga son ganuwa zuwa kogon Kantun-Chi, wanda sunansa ke nufin "bakin dutse mai launin rawaya" a cikin Mayan. Anan huɗu daga cenote ɗin da ake da su a bayyane suke ga jama'a, waɗanda har ma za su iya iyo a cikin ruwan da ke karkashinsu. Na farko a cikin hanyar shine Kantun Chi, yayin da Sas ka leen Ha ko "ruwa mai haske" ke biye dashi. Na ukun shine Uchil Ha ko "tsohuwar ruwa", na hudun kuma shine Zacil Ha ko "tsarkakakken ruwa", wanda bayan azahar ake ganin hasken rana yayin da suke ratsa wani rami na halitta a ɓangarensa na sama, wanda shine suna yin tunani a kan ruwa, tare da tasiri na musamman na haske da inuwa.
Lokaci ya wuce kusan ba tare da mun sani ba kuma muna hanzarin tafiyar mu zuwa zagaye na Grutaventura, wanda ya ƙunshi cenote guda biyu waɗanda ke haɗe da hanyoyin da aka kirkira, waɗanda tsayinsu da faɗarsu suna da yawa tare da kwalliya da ƙyama. Bayan 'yan kilomitoci da ke gabanmu za mu ga sanarwar sauran kogonan, na Aktun Chen, waɗanda muka riga muka haɗu da tafiya ta baya. Koyaya, muna so mu ziyarci shafin archaeological na Tulum, mai mahimmanci a cikin hanyar ta cikin yankin.
Mun tsaya shan ruwan 'ya'yan itace mai dadi a cikin La Esperanza, inda suke ba da shawarar mu karkata zuwa bakin rairayin bakin teku na Caleta de Solimán ko Punta Tulsayab, amma mun ci gaba da rugujewa, kodayake akwai' yan buri da yawa da za mu tsoma.
TULUM KO "RANAR"
A gaskiya, ɗayan ɗayan wuraren ne wanda ba zai gaji da ziyartar ba. Yana da sihiri na musamman, tare da ƙalubalen tsarinsa da ke fuskantar teku, wanda bisa ga binciken archaeological da aka yi kwanan nan, zai zama ɗayan manyan biranen Mayan na ƙarni na 13 da 14. A wancan lokacin an sanya shi da sunan "Zamá", mai alaƙa da kalmar Mayan "safiya" ko "fitowar rana", mai ma'ana tunda shafin yana cikin yankin mafi girman yankin gabas, inda fitowar rana cikin dukkan darajarta.
Sunan Tulum, saboda haka, kamar alama ba ta daɗe da zuwa ba. An fassara shi zuwa Sifaniyanci azaman "palisade" ko "bango", bayyanannen ishara ga wanda aka kiyaye anan. Kuma kodayake ba za mu iya jin daɗin fitowar wannan fitowar rana ba, amma mun jira har zuwa lokacin rufewa don yin tunani game da magariba, tsakanin yawan shuɗin ruwan sama da na gine-ginen da ba na gwamnati ba, wanda ba shi da damuwa da hare-haren ƙarfin yanayi.
Yamma ya riga ya faɗi kuma mun san cewa daga garin Tulum titin ya ratse zuwa layuka biyu kawai ba tare da haske ba har sai Felipe Carrillo Puerto, don haka sai mu nufi bakin tekun tare da babbar hanyar Ruinas de Tulum-Boca Paila, kuma a kilomita 10 mun yanke shawara kan ɗayan otal-otal na muhalli wanda ya gabaci Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. A can, bayan mun ɗanɗana ɗanɗanon tafarnuwa mai daɗi, gishiri mai gasa da giya mai sanyi, bacci ya mamaye mu. Koyaya, yayin da hasken yake shigowa kusan wayewar gari ta taga ta bude, kawai ta bakin kariya daga sauro, sai mu shiga wankan safe a wannan bakin rairayin da ruwan dumi da dumi kamar wasu kalilan.
WAJAN ZUCIYA MAYAN
A kan hanya, wasu abubuwa da aka yi da kara ko liana sun buge mu waɗanda masu sana'o'in da kansu suke bayarwa a cikin wata bukkar tsattsauran ra'ayi a tsawan jirgin Chumpón Cruise. Suna nuna keɓaɓɓiyar ƙira ta mazaunan yankin, waɗanda ke samun albarkatun ƙasa wata hanya mai fa'ida don samun abin su.
Ba mu jinkirta ba da dadewa, saboda jagororin da za su zo nan gaba, masu kula da yawon shakatawa na Xiimbal, suna jiran mu a kujerar karamar hukuma, wata hukuma da ke kula da ita ita ce Gilmer Arroyo, wani saurayi mai kaunar yankinsa, wanda ya ba da shawara tare da sauran masana don yadawa da kuma kare manufar Mayan al'umar gari da Gabriel Tun Can, wanda zai raka mu yayin yawon shakatawa. Sun kirawo masu tallata himma don cin abincin, kamar masanin kimiyyar halittu Arturo Bayona, daga Ecociencia da Proyecto Kantemó, waɗanda babban abin jan hankalinsu shine Kogon Hannun Macizan, Julio Moure, daga UNDP na yankin da Carlos Meade, darektan Yaxche 'Project, waɗanda suke la'akari. cewa "ta hanyar karfafa gwiwar jama'ar Mayan, an inganta kungiyar ta mazauna kowane wuri, tare da ayyukan musayar al'adu ta inda ake karfafa dabi'un 'yan asalin, da kuma bunkasa ci gaban albarkatun kasa, wanda hakan suna samar da fa'idodi kai tsaye ga mazauna yankin ". Ta wannan hanyar, sun gayyace mu mu ziyarci jama'ar Señor washegari, wanda sama da mazauna dubu biyu ke aiki a matsayin cibiyar haɗin kai a arewacin karamar hukumar, kuma ayyukanta na yau da kullun sune noma, samar da 'ya'yan itace, daji da noma. kiwon zuma.
Daga baya, zamu ziyarci wuraren da suka fi sha'awar tarihi, Wuri Mai Tsarki na Magana, tsohuwar gidan ibada na Katolika na Santa Cruz, Kasuwa, Pila de los Azotes da Gidan Al'adu. Yau tsawan yini kuma kamar yadda jikin ya rigaya ya nemi hutawa, bayan shakatawa da ruwan shaya mai dadi da kuma ba kanmu gaisuwa, mun sauka a Hotel Esquivel, don jin daɗin hutawa.
ZUWA GABA DA GASKIYA
A kan hanyar zuwa Tihosuco, a kan babbar hanyar 295 za mu je Señor, inda za mu raba wa wasu mazaunanta abubuwan da ke faruwa na rayuwar yau da kullun, al'adunsu da abincinsu na yau da kullun, waɗanda masu shirya taron na XYAAT Community Ecotourism Project suka gayyata. A gaba, Meade ya bayyana mana cewa a cikin yankin yawancin har yanzu suna kiyaye rukunin gida a matsayin tushen zamantakewar zamantakewar al'umma da samar da ingantaccen tsari, kuma cewa tsakiyar ayyukan shine samar da abinci don cin kai, a wurare biyu: babba, milpa, a ƙasa kusa da garin tare da kayan amfanin gona na zamani kamar masara, wake, squash da tubers, yayin da sauran ke aiki a wurin, a kusa da gida, inda kayan lambu da bishiyoyin fruita fruitan itace suke, da kaji da aladu.
Hakanan, a wasu gidajen akwai gonaki masu tsire-tsire masu magani, kamar yadda aka sani daga masu warkarwa ko masu warkarwa - mafiya yawa, mata-, ungozoma da masu ba da magani, har ma da mayu, duk ana girmama su sosai saboda suna da asalin tushen hikima shahararrun kakanninsu. Ofaya daga cikin waɗannan therapan asalin ƙasar masu ba da magani ita ce María Vicenta Ek Balam, wacce ta marabce mu a cikin lambun ta cike da tsire-tsire masu warkewa kuma ta yi bayanin abubuwan da suka mallaka na maganin ganye, duk a cikin yaren Mayan, wanda muke jin daɗin sautinsa mai daɗi, yayin da Marcos, shugaban XYAAT , fassara a hankali.
Don haka suna ba da shawarar ziyartar mai ba da labarin tatsuniyoyi ko "alamu", kamar yadda suke faɗa. Don haka, Mateo Canté, yana zaune a cikin motarsa, ya gaya mana a cikin Mayan kyawawan labaru na kafuwar Señor da kuma yawan sihiri a wurin. Daga baya, mun haɗu da mahaliccin kayan kiɗa a yankin, Aniceto Pool, wanda tare da wasu simplean kayan aiki kaɗan suke sanya bom bom ko tamboras wanda ke haskaka bukukuwan yanki. A ƙarshe, don sauƙaƙa zafin rana, mun tsere na ɗan lokaci don yin iyo a cikin ruwan sanyin Blue Lagoon, kilomita uku kacal da garin Chancen Comandante. Lokacin da muka dawo, sai kawai, jagororin XYAAT sun yi sharhi da murmushi na mussaman cewa akwai wasu kadoji a bankunan, amma sun yi kyau. Tabbas kyakkyawan wasa ne na Mayan.
IN NEMAN MACIJI
Arshen tafiya ta kusa, amma ba a rasa zuwa Kantemó ba, don zuwa Kogon Macizan Rataya. Za mu tafi tare da masu ilimin kimiyar halittu Arturo Bayona da Julissa Sánchez, wadanda a fuskokin shakkunmu suka fi son kula da abubuwan da ake tsammani. Don haka, akan hanya akan Babbar Hanya 184, bayan wucewar José María Morelos, lokacin da suka isa Dziuché, kilomita biyu daga nesa Kantemó, wani ƙauye ne inda ake aiwatar da aikin - wanda ke tallafawa Hukumar Raya ofan Indan Asalin (CDI) da Ecociencia, AC.
Muna ɗaukar ɗan gajeren jirgin kwale-kwale ta cikin lagoon sannan sai mu bi ta hanyar tafinta mai nisan kilomita biyar don lura da tsuntsayen mazauna ƙasa da masu ƙaura. Dole ne mu jira maraice lokacin da jemagu marasa adadi suka fara fitowa daga bakin kogon, a dai-dai lokacin da zamu gangaro zuwa gareshi, domin kuwa sai macizai, da manyan bakin almara, suka ɗauki matsayinsu don kai musu hari, suna fitowa daga kogwanni masu ban sha'awa a cikin rufin kogon da ratayewa da aka dakatar daga wutsiya, don kama jemage a cikin hanzari kuma nan da nan ya mirgine jikinsa don shaƙa da narke shi a hankali. Abun kallo ne mai ban sha'awa da ban mamaki, wanda aka gano kwanan nan, kuma wanda ya zama babban abin jan hankali a cikin shirin ecotourism na gari wanda mazauna ke gudanarwa.
AKAN YAK'IN CASTE
Kusan a kan iyaka da jihar Yucatán akwai Tihosuco, garin da ke da dogon tarihi, amma tare da ƙalilan mazauna a yau kuma hakan ya tsaya a kan lokaci. A can ne muka isa don ganin sanannen Gidan Tarihi na Yaƙin Basasa, wanda aka girka a cikin ginin mulkin mallaka wanda a cewar wasu masana tarihi mallakin Jacinto Pat ne.
Gidan kayan tarihin yana da dakuna hudu, inda aka nuna zane-zane, hotuna, kayan tarihi, samfurin da takardu masu alaƙa da yunƙurin 'yan asalin ƙasar da ya shafi Mutanen Espanya. A cikin ɗaki na ƙarshe akwai makamai, samfura da takardu waɗanda suka shafi farkon da ci gaban Yaƙin Basasa a tsakiyar karni na 19, da kuma bayanai game da kafuwar Chan Santa Cruz. Koyaya, babban abin birgewa game da wannan rukunin yanar gizon shine sanannen aikin da suke aiwatarwa tare da ƙungiyoyi daban-daban, daga ajin juzu'i da auduga, don cin gajiyar ilimin tsofaffin mata, har zuwa na kayan gargajiya ko rawan yanki, don kiyaye al'adu tsakanin sababbin al'ummomi. Sun ba mu samfurin wannan a ranar da rana mai ruwa, amma cike da launi saboda kyawawan kyan gani na huipiles da masu rawa ke sakawa da wadatattun kayan abinci na Mayan waɗanda muka ɗanɗana.
KARSHEN HANYAR
Mun yi doguwar tafiya daga Tihosuco, mun ratsa cikin garin Valladolid, a cikin jihar Yucatán, mun ratsa ta Cobá don isa Tulum. Mun dawo wurin farawa, amma ba kafin mu ziyarci Puerto Aventuras ba, hutu da ci gaban kasuwanci da aka gina a kusa da mashina ɗaya da ke Riviera Maya, kuma inda suke ba da nishaɗi mai kyau tare da dabbobin ruwa. Har ila yau, akwai Cibiyar Al'adu da Addini da Addini, ita kaɗai ce irinta a yankin, kazalika da CEDAM, Nautical Museum. Yanzu don kwana, mun koma Playa del Carmen, inda daren ƙarshe na tafiya ya tafi a otal din Los Itzaes, bayan mun ci abincin dare a La Casa del Agua- Ba tare da wata shakka ba, wannan hanyar koyaushe tana barin mu da sha'awar sanin ƙarin, Mun sake tabbatar da cewa Riviera Maya tana adana enigmas da yawa a cikin dazukan ta, cenote, kogwanni da bakin teku, don bayar da iyakar Mexico koyaushe don ganowa.
TARIHIN KADAN
Lokacin da Turawan mulkin mallaka suka iso, duniyar Mayan a cikin yankin jihar Quintana Roo na yanzu ta kasu kashi hudu zuwa larduna ko larduna daga arewa zuwa kudu: Ecab, Cochua, Uaymil da Chactemal. A cikin Cochua akwai yawan mutanen da yanzu ke cikin karamar hukumar Felipe Carrillo Puerto, kamar su Chuyaxche, Polyuc, Kampocolche, Chunhuhub, Tabi da babban birnin da ke Tihosuco, a da Jo'otsuuk. Hakanan a Huaymil an san shi da kujerun Mayan a cikin Bahía del Espíritu Santo kuma a cikin garin da ke yanzu Felipe Carrillo Puerto.
Wanda Spanish Francisco Montejo ya ba da umurni, a cikin 1544 aka ci wannan yankin, don haka 'yan ƙasar suna ƙarƙashin tsarin encomienda. Wannan ya kasance a lokacin mulkin mallaka da theancin kai, har zuwa ranar 30 ga Yuli, 1847 suka yi tawaye a Tepich wanda Cecilio Chí ya ba da umarni, daga baya kuma Jacinto Pat da sauran shugabannin yankin, farkon Yaƙin Basasa wanda ya fi shekaru 80 kiyaye a kan yaki da Mayans na Yankin Yucatan. A wannan lokacin, an kafa Chan Santa Cruz, wurin zama na Talking Cross, wanda tarihin bautarsa yake da ban sha'awa: a cikin 1848 José Ma. Barrera, ɗan wani Ba'amurke kuma Bayan Indiyawan, ya ɗaga hannuwansa, ya zana gicciye uku a kan itace, kuma tare da taimakon wani fitaccen masani ya aike da sakonni ga ‘yan tawayen don ci gaba da yakinsu. Da shigewar lokaci, aka gano wannan rukunin yanar gizon a matsayin Chan Santa Cruz, wanda daga baya za a kira shi Felipe Carrillo Puerto kuma zai zama kujerar birni.
Source: Mexico da ba a sani ba A'a. 333 / Nuwamba 2004
