Bayan bin sahun masu bincike da mishaneri waɗanda suka fara yin hanyoyi a cikin yankin Baja California, balaguron daga Meziko da ba a sani ba ya tashi zuwa hanya ɗaya, da farko a ƙafa sannan kuma ta keke, don gama zirga-zirga a cikin kayak. Anan muna da matakin farko na waɗannan kasada.
Bayan bin sahun masu bincike da mishaneri waɗanda suka fara yin hanyoyi a cikin yankin Baja California, balaguron daga Meziko da ba a sani ba ya tashi zuwa hanya ɗaya, da farko a ƙafa sannan kuma ta keke, don gama zirga-zirga a cikin kayak. Anan muna da matakin farko na waɗannan kasada.
Mun fara wannan kasada ce domin bin sawun waɗancan tsoffin masu binciken Baja California, kodayake muna da kayan aiki na zamani.
Yawancin lu'u-lu'u da ke bakin ruwa na La Paz ya kasance ba za a iya hana Hernán Cortés da matuƙan jirgin ruwan sa ba, waɗanda suka fara sa ƙafa a yankin Baja California a ranar 3 ga Mayu a 1535. Jirgin ruwa uku tare da kusan mutane 500 sun isa don su zauna a can na tsawon shekaru biyu. , har sai da matsaloli iri daban-daban, gami da ƙiyayya da Pericúes da Guaycuras, suka tilasta su barin yankin. Daga baya, a cikin 1596, Sebastián Vizcaíno ya yi tafiya a gefen tekun yamma, kuma godiya ga wannan ya sami damar yin taswirar farko ta Baja California, wacce itsan Jesuit suke amfani da ita tsawon shekaru ɗari biyu. Don haka, a cikin 1683 Uba Kino ya kafa aikin San Bruno, na farko daga cikin manufa ashirin a cikin yankin.
Don dalilai na tarihi, kayan aiki da yanayin yanayi, mun yanke shawarar yin balaguro na farko a yankin kudu na sashin teku. An yi tafiyar ne a matakai uku; na farko (wanda aka ruwaito a cikin wannan labarin) an yi shi ne da ƙafa, na biyu kuma a keke na kan dutse da na ukun ta kayak.
Wani masanin yankin ya gaya mana game da hanyar da ƙafa da mishanan Jesuit suka bi daga La Paz zuwa Loreto, kuma da nufin sake gano hanyar, sai muka fara shirin tafiya.
Tare da taimakon tsofaffin taswira da INEGI, da kuma rubutun Jesuit, mun sami ranchería de Primera Agua, inda ratar da ta zo daga La Paz ta ƙare. A wannan lokacin tafiyarmu ta fara.
Ya zama dole ayi kira da yawa ta hanyar gidan rediyon La Paz don sadarwa tare da wani muleteer a yankin wanda zai iya samun jakuna kuma wanda ya san hanyar. Mun yi sakonnin da karfe 4:00 na yamma, a wannan lokacin masunta na San Evaristo suna tattaunawa da juna don fadin yawan kifin da suke da shi kuma don sanin ko za su tattara kayan a wannan ranar. A ƙarshe mun tuntuɓi Nicolás, wanda ya yarda ya sadu da mu da rana washegari a Primera Agua. Centro Comercial Californiano da ke tallafawa muke samun yawancin abinci, kuma tare da taimakon Baja Expedition daga Tim Means, muna shirya abincin a cikin kwalaye na roba don ɗaura wa jakunan. A ƙarshe ranar tashi ta iso, mun hau javas goma sha biyu a cikin motar Tim kuma bayan mun yi tafiyar awanni huɗu da ƙura mai ƙura, mun bugi kawunanmu, mun isa Primera Agua: wasu gidaje na itace masu rufin kwali da ƙaramin lambu abu daya tilo a wurin, banda awakin mutanen gida. "Sun zo daga Monterrey, Nuevo León, don sayen dabbobinmu," sun gaya mana. Awaki shine kawai arzikin su.
Da yammacin ranar muka fara tafiya a kan tafarkin mishan mishan na Jesuit. Masu share mulatan, Nicolás da mataimakinsa Juan Méndez, sun ci gaba tare da jakunan; sannan John, Ba’amurke mai ilimin sanin yawon shakatawa, Remo, shi ma Ba’amurke ne kuma magini a Todos Santos; Eugenia, mace kaɗai da ta yi ƙarfin halin ƙalubalantar rana mai ƙuna da azabar da ke jiranmu a kan hanya, kuma a ƙarshe Alfredo da ni, 'yan rahoto daga Meziko da ba a san su ba, waɗanda koyaushe suke son ɗaukar hoto mafi kyau, mun tsaya a baya.
Da farko an banbanta hanyar sosai, tunda mazauna yankin suna amfani da ita don neman itacen itace da daukar dabbobi, amma da kaɗan kaɗan sai ya ɓace har sai da muka sami kanmu muna tafiya a ƙasan ƙasar. Inuwar tsire-tsire da cacti ba su zama mafaka daga rana ba, don haka muka ci gaba da tuntuɓe a kan jajayen duwatsun har sai mun sami rafin da baƙon abin da yake da ruwa. Jakai, wadanda ba safai suke yin irin wadannan ranaku masu nauyi ba, sun sunkuyar da kansu kasa. Abincin ya kasance mai sauƙi a nan da duk cikin tafiyar: sandwiches na tuna da apple. Ba mu da karfin kawo wasu nau'ikan abinci saboda muna bukatar sararin daukar ruwan.
Babu ainihin abin da zai gaya mana cewa wannan ita ce hanyar masu mishan, amma lokacin da muka bincika taswirar sai muka fahimci cewa ita ce hanya mafi sauƙi, ba tare da hawa da sauka ba.
Sunny, mun isa tebur a San Francisco, inda muka sami waƙoƙin wasu barewa. Jakai, da ba su da kaya, suka gudu don neman abinci, mu kuwa, a kwance, ba mu yarda mu shirya abincin dare ba.
Kullum muna cikin damuwa game da ruwan, saboda lita sittin da jakuna suka dauka suna bacewa da sauri.
Don cin gajiyar sanyin safiya, mun kafa sansani cikin sauri kamar yadda za mu iya, kuma hakan ya faru ne saboda awanni goma na tafiya a ƙarƙashin hasken rana da kan yankin daji abu ne mai mahimmanci.
Mun wuce ta gefen wani kogo kuma muka ci gaba a kan hanyar sai muka tsallake filayen Kakiwi: filin da yakai kilomita 5 daga yamma zuwa gabas da kilomita 4.5 daga kudu zuwa arewa, wanda muka ɗauka. Garuruwan da ke kewaye da wannan filin an watsar da su fiye da shekaru uku da suka gabata. Wurin da yake da dama don dasawa yanzu ya zama rami da ƙarancin tafki. Mun bar gari na ƙarshe da aka watsar a gabar wannan tafkin, iska ta yi maraba da mu daga Tekun Cortez, wanda daga tsayin m 600 za mu iya morewa a cikin sauƙinmu. A ƙasa, kaɗan zuwa arewa, za ku ga gidan kiwon dabbobi na Los Dolores, wurin da muke son zuwa.
Gangar da ta zigzagged kusa da tsaunuka ta kai mu zuwa gaɓar teku "Los Burros". Daga cikin dabinon dabinon da kuma kusa da kwararar ruwa, Nicolás ya gabatar da mu ga mutane, ga alama dangi na nesa.
Yin yaƙi da jakuna don hana su faɗuwa a ƙasa, rana ta faɗi. Matakan da muka bi kan yashi mai laushi, a cikin rafuka, sun yi jinkiri. Mun san muna kusa, saboda daga saman duwatsu mun ga rusassun gonar Los Dolores. A ƙarshe, amma a cikin duhu, mun sami shinge na ranch. Lucio, abokin Nicolás, muleteer, ya karbe mu a cikin gida, aikin gini ne daga karnin da ya gabata.
Ana neman ayyukan Jesuit, mun yi tafiyar kilomita 3 zuwa yamma don isa aikin Los Dolores, wanda aka kafa a 1721 da Uba Guillén, wanda shine mahaliccin hanyar farko zuwa La Paz. A wancan lokacin wannan wurin ya ba da hutu ga mutanen da suka yi tafiya daga Loreto zuwa bakin ruwa.
Zuwa 1737 Fathers Lambert, Hostell, da Bernhart sun sake kafa aikin zuwa yamma, kusa da rafin La Pasión. Daga can ne aka tsara ziyarar addini a wasu ayyukan a yankin, kamar su La Concepción, La Santísima Trinidad, La Redención da La Resurrección. Koyaya, a cikin 1768, lokacin da aika aikar Los Dolores yakai mutane 458, rawanin Sipaniya ya umurci Jesuit da suyi watsi da wannan da duk sauran ayyukan.
Mun sami kango na cocin. Bango uku da aka gina a kan tsauni kusa da rafin, da kayan lambu da dangin Lucio suka shuka da kogo, wanda saboda fasalinsa da girmansa zai iya kasancewa cellar da cellar mishan. Idan yau, ba a sami ruwan sama ba tun: shekaru uku da suka gabata, har yanzu wuri ne na dausayi, a lokacin da theabilar Jesuit suka zauna da shi tabbas ya zama aljanna.
Daga nan, daga gonar Los Dolores, mun fahimci cewa abokinmu Nicolás bai ƙara sanin hanyar ba. Bai gaya mana ba, amma yayin da muke tafiya ta fuskoki daban-daban zuwa ga wanda muka tsara a taswira, ya bayyana cewa bai sami hanyar ba. Da farko na makale kan tsauni, mai nisan kilomita 2, sannan a kan dutsen ƙwallon ƙafa, kusa da inda taguwar ruwa take, mun yi tafiya har sai mun sami ratar. Tafiya a bakin teku ke da wuya; jakuna, saboda firgita da ruwa, suka yi ƙoƙarin neman hanyar su a cikin cacti, suka watsar da duk javas. A ƙarshe, kowane ɗayanmu ya ƙare da jan jaki.
Ramin yana cikin mummunan yanayi cewa ba babbar motar 4 x 4 zata wuce shi ba. Amma a gare mu, har ma da ciwon baya da ƙyallen yatsun kafa, ya kasance ta'aziyya. Mun riga mun tafi cikin aminci shugabanci. Lokacin da muka yi tafiyar kilomita 28 a cikin layi madaidaiciya daga Los Dolores sai muka yanke shawarar tsayawa mu yada zango.
Ba mu taɓa yin barci ba, amma kowace rana idan muka farka akwai maganganu daga Romeo, Eugenia har ma da nawa game da ciwo daban-daban da muke da su a jiki saboda ƙoƙari na jiki.
Yingaukar kaya a kan jakunan ya ɗauki mu awa ɗaya, kuma saboda wannan dalilin mun yanke shawarar ci gaba. A can nesa mun sami damar ganin gida mai hawa biyu daga karnin da ya gabata, ganin cewa garin Tambabiche yana kusa.
Mutane sun yi mana maraba da karimci. Yayin da muke shan kofi a ɗaya daga cikin gidajen kwali da ke kewaye da gidan, sun gaya mana cewa Mista Donaciano, da ya samo kuma ya sayar da babban lu'u-lu'u, ya ƙaura tare da iyalinsa zuwa Tambabiche. A can ne ya gina katafaren gida mai hawa biyu don ci gaba da neman lu'lu'u.
Doña Epifania, mace mafi tsufa a gari kuma ta ƙarshe da ta zauna a gidan Donaciano, cikin alfahari ta nuna mana kayan adonta: ofan kunne da zoben lu'u lu'u mai ruwan toka. Tabbas tabbataccen tanadi ne.
Dukkansu dangi ne na wanda ya kafa garin. Da yake zagaya gidajen don ƙarin koyo game da tarihinsu, mun haɗu da Juan Manuel, "El Diablo", wani mutum mai kaurin fata da guragu, wanda da laɓɓan leɓɓa ya gaya mana game da kamun kifi da yadda ya sami wannan wurin. “Mata ta,” in ji shi da furfura, “‘ yar Doña Epifania ce kuma na zauna a gidan kiwo na San Fulano, na kan kama namiji na kuma cikin kwana daya ya zo nan. Ba sa sona sosai, amma na nace ”. Mun yi sa'a da muka sadu da shi saboda ba za mu ƙara amincewa da Nicolás ba. Don farashi mai kyau, "El Diablo" ya yarda ya raka mu a ranarmu ta ƙarshe.
Mun sami mafaka a Punta Prieta, kusa da Tambabiche. Nicolás da mataimakansa sun dafa mana ingantaccen abun ƙyama.
Da ƙarfe goma na safe, kuma muka ci gaba a kan hanya, sabon jagoranmu ya bayyana. Don zuwa Agua Verde, dole ne ku wuce tsakanin duwatsu, manyan hanyoyi huɗu, kamar yadda aka san mafi girman ɓangaren tsaunuka. "El Diablo", wanda ba ya son komawa baya, ya nuna mana hanyar da ta haura zuwa tashar jiragen ruwa kuma ta koma ga pangarsa. Lokacin da muka tsallaka sai muka sake cin karo da shi kuma an maimaita wannan yanayin; Ta haka ne muka ratsa ta Carrizalito, San Francisco da San Fulano ranch zuwa Agua Verde, inda muka isa bayan tilasta jakunan wucewa gefen wani tsauni.
Don barin gidan San Fulano, mun yi tafiyar awa biyu har sai da muka isa garin Agua Verde, daga nan ne muka bi hanyar da mishan ta hanyar keke ta kan dutse. Amma wannan labarin zai ci gaba a cikin wani labarin da za a buga a wannan mujallar.
Bayan mun yi tafiyar kilomita 90 a cikin kwanaki biyar, mun gano cewa hanyar da mishanan suke amfani da ita an share ta sosai daga tarihi, amma ana iya tsabtace shi ta hanyar sake haɗawa da manufa ta ƙasa.
Source: Ba a san Mexico ba No. 273 / Nuwamba 1999
